First project, need to weld mystery metals....

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Hey all,I've been reading through the first 50 or so pages of the project board for the past week or so, and figure you guys are the best source for my project. I broke the kickstart lever on my wife's bike. I had previously put a bicycle pedal on there, but my design wasn't strong enough apparently.Here's how it sits nowandWhat I had done was cut the original peg down to about 7/8" long. Then shaped it until it was round and I could thread it 3/8-16. I cut the threads off the pedal, and tapped it the same.Here's what remains of those:andI knew it was sketchy to begin with, but I figured what the hell. It's only a 400, and I have an extra kickstart lever.Here's a stock one next to the now damaged one:You can see the difference. Stock is around 1/2" inch, and actual material on 3/8 thread is what 5/16??Here's where I need some advice.The lever is cast something. Not sure what. The pedal is obviously not. I've seen bicycle pedal welded on kickstands before, so I know it's doable. I just don't know what steps I should take to have a solid weld. I plan to chamfer both the pedal, and lever to get as much penetration as possible.Do I need to preheat it? Should I just go as hot as my rig will go, and have at it?Is there anything else I should watch out for?Thanks In Advance For Any Advice!!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by Ebola MonkeyShould I just go as hot as my rig will go, and have at it?Is there anything else I should watch out for?Thanks In Advance For Any Advice!!!!
Reply:Sure would. Thought I put that little bit of information in there.Century 180 MIG, 220v. Will be using flux core (I believe .035)
Reply:I would just buy a new one..Is it a kickstand or a kickstarter?You mention both.....zap!Last edited by zapster; 10-06-2010 at 04:14 PM.I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:That lever looks forged to me. If so, it could be welded to the pedal's spindle. Do a spark test on the lever and the spindle to find out.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Crazy idea here:Get a junk bicycle crank (the steel one-piece style), and cut the last couple of inches off.Now, cut the last couple of inches off of the kickstart lever, and weld the bicycle crank arm end onto the kickstart lever end.  Blend with a grinder, and finally screw the other pedal in the end (the one you didn't cut the threads off of).You'll have much more meat to weld to, and if you vee both sides, you can get a full penetration weld in there.  Then, the pedal will have a shaft that's the correct diameter too.
Reply:Thanks for the replies guys Originally Posted by zapsterI would just buy a new one..Is it a kickstand or a kickstarter?You mention both.....zap!
Reply:Get a new kick lever. I doubt that you will successfully weld or repair anything on the Japaloy that it made out of.
Reply:Well,I didn't wait..... took a grinder too it, and sparks look just like they did off a hammer I had near by. Here's the resultThere is some porosity (I think), I'm assuming because I used flux core, and had to start/stop a few times.  In the end though it seems solid enough, and the weld area is actually larger than the original kicker pedal shaft.Not perfect, but for an 82 XS400, I think it'll be fine. If it breaks again, I have a stock replacement. Thanks Again For The Replies!
Reply:That is not an "IF" but, it looks good.
Reply:So my question is how all of the guys building choppers, and bobbers out of old japanese, and british bikes do it?Just did a quick search, and saw it done several ways.Drill and tap all the way through  the the lever arm, and use a piece of 3/8 all-thread.As rlitman said, cut bike crank, cut kickstart lever, weld together.Cut off above pivot, weld on harley lever.As I did, weld pedal spindle directly to original kicker lever.The all-thread method seems the most sketchy. That leaves about 3/16 at best all the way around the all thread. The ones that are cut off above the pivot seem like they would have a lot more leverage on them, increasing the odds of breaking.Is if a technique problem, or a materials problem that would doom my newly welded pedal?Again, I'm a novice weldor, and am trying to learn, not be a smartass.
Reply:Originally Posted by Ebola MonkeyIs if a technique problem, or a materials problem that would doom my newly welded pedal?
Reply:It is not a technique problem, or anything you can do to make it any better. The material is crap, it is OK in a cast one piece state but when you start to extend, repair, or modify then you are going to be in trouble.   The best way I could see to do it would be to use another lever cut it off before the bend where the kicker is, then cut the original one, slide them both into a tube for external rigidity, then a rosette weld on the shank of the levers.   Castings are so porous you will not be able to run a bead that has any structural integrity. I doubt that Zapster could even run a bead on air or in a mud puddle.Last edited by riceburner; 10-07-2010 at 02:01 PM.
Reply:Thanks again for the replies.Hopefully it holds up. If not I at least got practice welding, grinding, and finishing.Here's the final product next to a stock one.I think it looks a hell of a lot better.And here's the worse side, that faces the engine:Here's the weld from the side that will face out when the lever is up:The finish is "godknowshowmany" coats of gun blue. First time bluing anything, so it took a while to get the process down. I would guess I could get the same finish in about 5 coats starting from scratch now. I don't know how rust resistant gun blue alone is, but this bike will probably never see rain. Then again I could always throw a quick coat of spray poly on it.My welder:Century 180 Wire feed welder.
Reply:Looks like there's room in that bend for a little triangular gusset.  That would strengthen things up a bit...Bluing looks good - I thought it was paint at first.  Just keep it lightly oiled and out of the rain and it should be fine.
Reply:You ever tried it Riceburner?  I've shortened and modified several kick start and shift levers and have yet to have even the tiniest bit of trouble.  Mostly hondas and yamaha's, but I've done a kawasaki and a suzuki too.  Don't know about the flux core, but I've never had a problem tigging them.  Just get the chrome out of the way, bevel, and weld away.My name's not Jim....
Reply:I have very good luck welding anything like that with nickel rods...
Reply:Yuppers I have.A shift lever doesn't stand the same kind of stresses that a kick lever has to live under, a twist rather than an impact, and the material is not the same as the casting a kick start lever or  kick stand is made out of. If you can do it far out, but it is best to be sure that the kick start is only a back up for an electric, and if it is just a kick start use only on a two stroke with a compression release, use extra caution if used on a higher compression four stroke thumper. If the modification is done to a the kick stand park where when the bike falls over it won't hurt itself or anything around it. As a casting they are strong, upset that and you are going to have problems (lessons learned the hard way).Last edited by riceburner; 10-09-2010 at 01:25 PM.
Reply:dat's gona hoit when it snaps back against yer shinEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge