New shop need help

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I will be getting a 12x24 sturdibuilt lofted barn to use as a shop. It will have wood floors, so I am wondering what to put down so it doesnt go up in flames?
Reply:Concrete, masonry pavers, sheet metal or in the old days asbestos mill board.A pump can fire extinguisher (are they still available ?)I offer three choices: Good, Fast, & Cheap. You may pick two.Hobart AC/DC StikMate LXHarbor Freight AD HoodHarbor Freight Industrial Chop SawDeVilbis 20 Gallon, 5 HP Compressor
Reply:I was this thinking cement board but not sure. I am hoping there is a roll on coating or something
Reply:makbootzy  -  Welding in a wood building is akin to living in a glass house; something is going to happen that you will regret.What is the end utility of your new shop?     OpusLast edited by OPUS FERRO; 07-27-2012 at 01:21 AM.
Reply:Floors going to be wood planks? If not, and they're going to be using plywood or particle board, I'd be more worried about the walls and corners. While it won't stand up to a lot of abuse, cement board will work. Serviceability will suffer every time you drop a chunk of steel on it. Flex from a less than rigid floor and minimal joists underneath will probably do more damage to the cement board than the steel impacts.Walls, go with sheetrock. Keep the place clean and have at least one fire extinguisher ready and available. I have one hanging on the welding table and one or two at every door of the shop...never used them, yet.A lot of people are welding and cutting in less than ideal environments. Key to success is most likely housekeeping when you finish welding/cutting for the day. Clean up. Don't leave waste where it falls. Time spent in cleanup will let you stick around awhile and see if there may be problems that need attending.I went with a pole barn. Steel over a wood framework. Attached ImagesLast edited by WyoRoy; 07-27-2012 at 01:28 AM.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:I would probably cement board it and use that vct (vinyl composite tile) on the floor, it's easy to maintain and replace if needed..  I would use metal siding on the walls.tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Originally Posted by makbootzyI will be getting a 12x24 sturdibuilt lofted barn to use as a shop. It will have wood floors, so I am wondering what to put down so it doesnt go up in flames?
Reply:My area is wood with a dirt floor, and there is belting from the convayers from the local mine on the floor. I have mutable fire ext in my small area. I try to keep it clean, but when your tired you  just stop for the night. Like someone said if your using a torch and a piece of slag rolls over to a corner or something it way catch the fllor on fire, it may take a while too! I do most all of my cutting outside and welding too. Sometimes I do some in the shop, but its just a few tacks and then it all goes out side to finish up.Learning one rod at a time
Reply:with a dirt floor and 2 layers of 5/8 rock on every sq in of wood you will be ok
Reply:Depending on how "bouncy" the floor is, you might be able to do as little as a 2" overlay of crete on the floor. Think "wet bed" for tile. The key is going to be how stiff the floor is. If it's got a lot of flex, then you'll need a thicker coating to prevent it breaking up, maybe as much as 4" or more.If the floor is fairly "springy", a 2nd layer of 1/2"-3/4" plywood glued and screwed to the original will help stiffen things up. Just make sure to stagger the joints and turn the ply 90 deg to the original sheets. You have 2 choices for a 2" overlay, mortar and stucco wire, like they do with wet beds, or a true 2" of crete using small stone.You could also ceramic tile the floor. Again the thing that will determine if this works or not is how stiff the floor is. Given a choice, go with small tile and definitely double up the plywood. Small tile is less likely to crack than large tiles, though the grout may come up between the tile if there is a lot of flex still. They make an isolation membrane that is designed to help isolate the tile bed from the wood underlayment. If you go with tile, I'd go with that as well..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by WyoRoyWalls, go with sheetrock. Keep the place clean and have at least one fire extinguisher ready and available. I have one hanging on the welding table and one or two at every door of the shop...never used them, yet.A lot of people are welding and cutting in less than ideal environments. Key to success is most likely housekeeping when you finish welding/cutting for the day. Clean up. Don't leave waste where it falls. Time spent in cleanup will let you stick around awhile and see if there may be problems that need attending.I went with a pole barn. Steel over a wood framework.
Reply:Thanks for all the help. The walls will get sheetrock and maybe cementboard up 4ft and leaning towards tiling the floor. Thanks again for the suggestions.
Reply:What about fire rates sheeting plywood or own don't know how fire resistant it is just a thoughtMillermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:what would it take to pour a concrete floor and skip the wood?
Reply:Saw dust so you don't have to wait so long to roast marshmallows?