Rate my weld

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My 110 lincoln welder with 75/25 mix and .30 wire.  When I did that weld, the metal was properly prepped, but I took that pic a day later, hence the rust.  A friend came over who welds a lot better than me, and told me some stuff to change, so me welding that was a bit awkward but even with a totally different technique, it looks a lot better than what I use to do.Last edited by grphx; 09-15-2009 at 12:28 AM.
Reply:.....Just kiddingDon't comment on other folks welds Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Weld is not too bad. Looks like thin wall stuff? i think your a little hot. Run some welds on a couple of T joints and let us see that. Could be a little mor consistant. B/c of the type of weld and what your welding its going to be tough to get the stack of dimes your looking for. Also big big problem that alot of people have is your corners. You can see your weld and you can see your tacks. Your tacks are the week point of the joint. Grind the tack down before you weld it just a little bit to feather it out and then start on the corner not after it and weld. Also at the end of your weld see that little area that is inconsistent with the rest of the weld. it is called a suckback crator. All welds have it inpossible to stop. Good practice is to grind the very end of of down to where its smooth metal right there and start your weld in the middle of where the creator was and the whip it up to your previous dime from the previous weld. Does this make any sense? Whip up some t joints for us.Weldandpower 225Heliarc Rig for itTorchesect ect ectLifes Short WELD NAKEDLooking for a SA200
Reply:OK, resize your pic for the board so I can read what you wrote. City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:The end of my weld, I let the welder sit there for a second, I was told that you do that so you heat up the freshly warmed up metal, instead of just going over it for a split second, giving it a stronger deeper weld.I'm not big into the "stack of dimes" look, I just want my welds to be strong and penetrate really well.  I had my welder cranked all the way up on heat because it's not really rated for that metal.  I guess I was going a little too slow.  Before, when I'd weld on that or pretty much anything, the weld would be kinda tall, but I wasn't cold lapping it I know for sure.
Reply:A lot of the welds I'll be doing for this rack I'm working on are just butt welds.  I'll try to do some other welds to show off what I got.Last edited by grphx; 09-15-2009 at 12:51 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by jroyster06Weld is not too bad. Looks like thin wall stuff? i think your a little hot. Run some welds on a couple of T joints and let us see that. Could be a little mor consistant. B/c of the type of weld and what your welding its going to be tough to get the stack of dimes your looking for. Also big big problem that alot of people have is your corners. You can see your weld and you can see your tacks. Your tacks are the week point of the joint. Grind the tack down before you weld it just a little bit to feather it out and then start on the corner not after it and weld. Also at the end of your weld see that little area that is inconsistent with the rest of the weld. it is called a suckback crator. All welds have it inpossible to stop. Good practice is to grind the very end of of down to where its smooth metal right there and start your weld in the middle of where the creator was and the whip it up to your previous dime from the previous weld. Does this make any sense? Whip up some t joints for us.
Reply:Originally Posted by William McCormick JrI blew up his picture. It looks like he might have wire brushed the weld. That looks like what those black lines are in the weld. At first I thought too hot too, it even looked hollow and maybe even cracked. But upon closer examination, it looks like he is just right. For a 110 volt machine that is pretty cool.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:I agree that's pretty nice for a 110v mig.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33I agree that's pretty nice for a 110v mig.
Reply:Originally Posted by grphxThe only thing I did was weld that weld, then let it set overnight.  Then took a pic.  I didn't do any wirebrushing to the weld; but I wish I did to at least get rid of the rust.  I need to make smaller tack welds or something.
Reply:Originally Posted by William McCormick JrDid you wipe it off or anything? That is all it takes to create those lines. Even sometimes dragging it across something or something being pulled over it will do that. Usually when you get any kind of geometric line like that, you investigate what it is, that is usually a warning sign. But it can be something harmless. Destroy it if you can. See how it holds up. If it breaks right on that line, you can be sure that line is a problem. If it breaks next to the weld. You are ok.         Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:That dark line looks unnatural. Like I said if anything moved over it while it was hot, even if your glove moved over it, as it was hot that could do it. Or if you rest your MIG gun, on the surface as you weld. It is a funny thing, when you use an ARC rod or MIG/MAG, that creates a lot of surface heat, you must totally penetrate, and heat the work piece, yet not stay too long to create such a hot weld,so the light from the weld upon cooling, does not draw off the heat too quickly, causing a brittle weld that can crack just sitting there. Or create a line like in that picture, that could be a stress fracture. Years ago machinists used a compound that gave off light if placed against a hot surface. It would harden metal by changing the heat emissions from the metal, to light emissions. Causing the metal to super cool and case harden. We used to harden ordinary steel like this.Sometimes on very thick parts I have seen where yellow light, is not an issue because of the enormous amount of time a weld takes to cool, even if bright yellow hot. But on that thickness material, if you are disintegrating or boiling wire into the weld, to create heat, you might get a very fast cooling. And a stress fracture. Years ago to do structural welding, you could only use 70-18 in reverse polarity.         Sincerely,             William McCormick