Lincoln Hi Freq box contactor add on

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I do alot of aluminum welding running my AEAD200LE and i use a lincoln Hi freq unit , i would like the torch to be cold when i am done welding so i built a contactor assembly to add onto the unit , after alot of wiring and rewiring and playing i have almost figured out how to do it lol i just thought id throw some photos up of my progress and what ive been up to with this little thing , the first photo is the back of the unit , the second is the add on panel that goes in the nema box on the back of the unit , the only issues im having is currently i am running the leads from the high frequency side of the unit through the contactor and its now allowing the unit to start the way it would without the contactor. Attached Images
Reply:Looks real good but try putting the contactor on the input side of the unit to solve your activation problem.I like the contact jumpers.  Just like Miller does them.  Is the transformer due to the contactor coil voltage or just to operate the relay?  What amp rating on the contactor?  Just curious.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:That is actually what i was going to switch to tommorow i was hoping i could make it work this way but it doesnt seem to work out so well the reason i was doing it this way was ease of access to the wires (laziness) haha , and yes the transformer is to step 110 down to 24 for the coil on the contactor , i am using a 24 volt relay but the actual voltage on the switch side is almost 30 volts coming from the original relay in the Hi Freq unit , i have not had a issue yet . The contactor is rated 60 amp per phase it was like 8.00$ on ebay my little AEAD200LE is only a 200 amp machine and when tiggin aluminum close to max i only try to run it @ 50 % duty cycle because it starts to get warm and u notice heat loss in the puddle.
Reply:Which HF unit are you working with?  Got a Code#?You've got 30V available from the HF unit?  AC or DC?  As I don't see a bridge rectifier in the picture, I presume the contactor coil is AC?That's the same 60A capacity contactor the MM200 uses and will be fine in your application.  Smokin' deal at $8.00!!!MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:The coil on the contactor is ac , 24 volt . The code # is 5385 ,http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...t.aspx?p=28918 . There are two rectifiers in the unit , i am pulling off the coil of relay # 1  , i believe its actually DC , but am not sure. The unit functions as planned but u have to keep your finger on the trigger button on the tig torch , once u let off the trigger the timer kicks in and it kills the arc , im not sure if i rewired something incorrectly or not , originally u hit the trigger and it fires the high freq and starts the solenoids but u didn't have to keep it pressed , once u broke the arc the timer would kick in and shut off the solenoids  but this may work out to be okay , it was like 20 today and i was getting cold standing in the trailer messing with it
Reply:On second thought i think i need to figure out if i can make it shut off when i break the arc and the timers stay on for post flow. somehow when i break the arc it shuts off the high frequency and thats the part i need to figure out , the timers kick in and the water and argon solenoids continue to flow , brain farts i sware
Reply:I don't know anything about this, and you at least have some idea of what you're doing, but is there any way you could borrow power for your HF relay from just 'uphill' of the timer relays that run the solenoids?  That way, the HF would kick on when you pull the trigger, and cutout with the loss of power to the machine side of the timers that run the gas and water... maybe?Weld well; grind less.
Reply:LW,I'm not sure I'm following your description of what's happening but DC relay #2 is the HF Start Only interupt that is energized by the OCV and de-energizes as welding voltage drops once an arc is established.DC relay #1 (that you're pulling the 30VDC from) is serving a dual purpose when the torch switch is closed in that it completes the HF transformer primary power supply circuit with one set of contacts and establishes a "selflatching" circuit with the other set once relay #2 drops out.Breaking the arc allows OCV to increase which re-energizes relay #2 unlatching relay #1 and "starts" the timer controlling the 115VAC gas and water solenoids.Can you elaborate on how you're controlling the contactor coil?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:I am currently running two leads off dc relay # 1 and using them to switch the add on relay in the contactor enclosure , i am running my 110 volts to the transformer , and switching 24 volts from the transformer on the relay to engage the  contactor , the problem i am having is it will switch the contactor on and energize the torch , the problem is when u let off it throws relay # 1 on off on off on off very fast i am not sure if i am double switching relay 1 somehow or if the transformer in the high frequency unit is not big enough to switch relay 1 and the add on relay ? As far as running the two leads off relay # 1 i am using the two wires that control the transformer on that relay .
Reply:And i did rewire it to where the contactor is inline with the input as opposed to the output , fixed that issue .