Help needed with my job- Rotary Tables

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Hello everyone,I had a job interview/work day yesterday for a Manufacturing company that rebuilds and over-hauls Allison Transmissions. Yesterday they gave me a scrap piece of solid  round shaft( 12" long by 3" diameter) and they told me to weld on it. they wanted me to weld from 2" on the round stock to about 5" without stopping, kinda like threads on a machine screw. they wanted my bead to overlap eachother also. that explanation probably sounded like i was high, hard to explain it in words.their goal was to increase the diameter of the shaft by a 1/32 on each side, AFTER lathe-ing it down.( to put on bigger bearings im assuming)my problem is, setting up the rotary table speed, my voltage, and wire speed! I am using a Miller 350P. if i remember correctly, my voltage was 27 and my wirespeed was around 300!the reason why these settings are cranked is because their horizontal rotary machine SUCKS. setting 0-3 dont work, then 4 starts spinning, and sometimes the machine starts to spin faster while im welding!!I was trying to have the rotary table go as slow as it can go ( because the diameter of the shaft is pretty small ) and have the bead pretty hot. I am buying new welding helmet lenses today cause i couldnt see sh*t out of my helmet because it was dirtyany tips? i want to have my bead colder, so the bead builds up alittle. the beads i am doing now are wide and flat because they are HOTI hope some of you can follow my ridiculous descriptionjordan
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Reply:do you have a tig welder? it would give you more flexibility for travel speed with your POS rotary.another tip: if you are doing the weld rolling on a horizontal plane you need to keep your arc on the downhill side so that as it rotates the weld will solidify in the flat position.
Reply:Put that 350P in pulse mode, mig gun, steel program and set it to whatever wire diameter is loaded in the machine.   The faster/hotter you want to weld, turn up the wire speed.  Slower/colder, turn down the wire speed.  The program adjusts the volts on it's own based on the wire speed you set.If you want the puddle more fluid, turn up the Arc Length.  For faster freezing puddle and more buildup, better out of position control, turn down the Arc Length.  For a wider flatter bead, turn up the Sharp Arc.  For a narrower higher bead, turn down the Sharp Arc.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:I've done shaft buildups like that before.  You're making it harder than it really is.  Don't worry about the buildup, you're going to give the machinists plenty of material to take off, just make sure to overlap each wrap around the shaft.  Your goal is to have a relatively smooth surface across the shaft when done with the buildup, peaks and valleys should be very small.  If the rotator is having problems with slower speeds, either increase your deposition rate (wire feed) so that you can weld faster, or make more narrower wraps around the shaft.  What size wire are you using?  I'm going to assume solid wire since they want one continuous bead start to finish.  What gas?  Given the information provided, I would choose .035" ER70S wire, 95/5 Ar/O2 gas mix for spray transfer, and start out at 26v/400-450ipm.  I think an .045 wire would lay too deep of a weld, which equates to more work in the machine shop.