|
|
I took my tungsten out to put a different on in and now I can get the tungsten to lock in place, even the old one. What am I missing here?I did take a wire brush and just brush the tip of the ceramic in between changing and now can get it to lock.I almost wonder if metal pieces got in the threads and I'm considering tapping it... it is a bit harder to screw in now...Am I missing something? Attached Images
Reply:It should not fight you too much. Always be smoooth and careful when winding in with these fine threads. The way to set it up, install front piece. Drop in the collet, with the tapered end forward. Add the tail; wind it in till snug, and then back it off a turn. Now, from the front, insert the tungsten. Now tighten, only finger snug, not fist tight.I'd rather not try to tap it until you are sure you trashed it.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:right sized tungsten? sorry missed "even the old one"Last edited by tapwelder; 10-03-2012 at 01:59 AM.
Reply:Tighten in the following order:-gas lense or diffuser-cup (ceramic, pyrex etc)-insert collet-insert tungsten-tighten back capMiller Dynasty 200DXMiller Spectrum 250DMiller Millermatic 200Bunch of old blue dinosaurs....
Reply:Are you putting the collet in backwards? The fat end should point away from the pointy end of the tungsten.
Reply:Yeah, doing everything as everyone has suggested. I'm a bit stumped. Pretty difficult to screw in.The tungsten just slides in and out. I can manually push the collet in the diffuser which will lock the tungsten in place, but screwing in does nothing.Collet is in correctly. Locking end is sitting inside the diffuser.
Reply:My hunch is that your problem is somehow tied to this statement: Originally Posted by just_some_dudeI did take a wire brush and just brush the tip of the ceramic in between changing and now can get it to lock.
Reply:I was just getting some splatter off of the ceramic. Just rubbed it over a few times.
Reply:Have you tried tightening with pliers? When they get a bit sloppy, the tungsten will just slide out. I can hand tighten my short cap until I'm blue in the face and it will just fall out, but turn it with pliers another 1/32" and it's in there so tight, you're not getting the tungsten out without breaking the torch.
Reply:The shoulder of the collet body should seat against the threaded part of the torch head. If not, the collet won't get enough squeeze from the back cap to hold the tungsten. Look closely at the threads of the collet body and inside the torch for defects or debris. If you do need to tap the torch head, be very careful. If you have a 17 series torch, it takes a 3/8 - 32 tap. You can find them at mscdirect.com
Reply:What Welds4d said. If you buy a tap, get a bottoming tap.I marked up your pic a bit. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by welds4dThe shoulder of the collet body should seat against the threaded part of the torch head. If not, the collet won't get enough squeeze from the back cap to hold the tungsten. Look closely at the threads of the collet body and inside the torch for defects or debris. If you do need to tap the torch head, be very careful. If you have a 17 series torch, it takes a 3/8 - 32 tap. You can find them at mscdirect.com
Reply:Look at the end of the collet, I had one that actually twisted.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Thanks for all the info!I called Miller, they sent me to weld craft. They suggested I tap it just to be able to use it now and they are sending me a replacement body.I don't have that size tap in my set, going to have to pick one up.
Reply:Is that a gas saver collet or standard, if standard it looks like it got hot and the crimps are bad. If the tung slides in and out of the collet easily then that might be the case. Either way I would start with the collet and replace. They make a bottm tap for the back cap it would cost more than a new back cap. Your choice.
Reply:Everything is standard. I'll order some replacement accessories, any accessories better than the next?Bottom Tap, is it likely to find that in a brick and mortar, or is that going to be an online order only? First time I have ever heard of a bottom/bottoming tap. It seems hard enough finding 3/8"-32 in an brick and mortar, I doubt they would have bottom taps?The part that threw me off most about this situation is I could pull out the collet and diffuser. Put the collet in diffuser, drop in tungsten, push collet down with thumb and tungsten would lock in place. If I put everything back in and screw back cap on, not only did it have more resistance then before, it would not lock the tungsten in place. There was probably a mm gap between and and back cap when screwed all the way in. This is actually screwed in further than I had to in the past.
Reply:just_some_dudeYou have two distinct problems: the threads binding, and the collet not cinching.Don't use pliers to tighten; it will only make your thread problem worse, and doesn't fix anything. If you have to chase the threads, take off the back-cap. The threads run all theway through, so a standard tap will work. Its hard to improve brass threads, so use a new tap, with an appropriate lube, carefully clean. Consider the following fix first before tapping, and you may not need to.millrat - Thanx for the illustration. As noted, collets wears at the grip end,and correspondingly wears at the collet-body seat, inside at the bottom.dude - Your problem arises when the wear of the collet-end, and collet-body seat allows the back-cap to bottom-out on its own thread. This is the Old Boy fix. The torch head has approx. 1/2" of threads in the brass defuser cast into the torch body. See millrat's left arrow. The collet-body threads are only 5/16" long, so you have plenty of room to modify. In lathe, at thread crest-height, shave 1/32" off the top of the collet-body shoulder directly where millrat's left arrow is pointed.This raises the collet assembly in the torch body, and give the back-cap enough travel to cinch the collet.Opus
Reply:Thanks! I don't have a lathe, but it is a good idea.I didn't want to create another thread in case there was already one, but I did a lot of searching and could not find an answer.I understand the cup size (#4, #7, etc.), but what do all these other numbers mean?13N08 #413N09 #5Or 10N50 #410N49 #5Are they just model numbers? What is the difference between 13N08 and 10N50?I was going to buy some new parts for the diversion 180 torch I have, but don't know what all these numbers are.If I want to get a gas lens and gas collet, what do I select?As you can tell I'm confused...Looking at weldingdepot.com -> TIG Consumables.Last edited by just_some_dude; 10-03-2012 at 06:47 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleLook at the end of the collet, I had one that actually twisted.
Reply:Thanks for the information all.I never paid attention to the torch body bore. On the job you just replace the torch. Seems to be a common issue with these torches. I think I figured out the cause however. Collet body should be removed/installed, finger tight only, on a COLD torch. Removal on a hot torch seems to be the common cause of thread galling. That's based on my conversations with the guys that crapped them up.IF the bore has threads thorugh, you won't need a bottoming tap. A taper (not a starter) tap should work IF you start it with the existing threads. It's a "feel" thing that takes some practice on messed up threads, especially on fine threads. So if the threads are "good" on the back side of the torch, start there, or vice versa.Either way the answer to brick and mortar is no. It is a "non-standard" thread pitch. As mentioned: MSCdirect, McMaster-Carr, Grainger, Fastenall, etc..If you want to putz around with the collet body threads you will need a die for that. Unless you are expecting to do this often, it's cheaper to buy new collet bodies.
Reply:Okay... I think there is a fastenal nearby, I just don't want to wait for the stuff to get here , but might have to.I think I answered my own questions on those number in my previous post. Looking at the weldcraft web site and found all those numbers...
Reply:As Millrat said You can buy the parts cheaper then a tap or tap and die.
Reply:Yep, musta got hot. Collets do go bad. I've replaced quite a few myself. They're cheap. Like a buck and change.I have a tap and will sell it if anybody is interested. Used once. The next time I have a problem, I'll just get a new torch head.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Deal with it with a fine care in a proper manner. Tighten the diffuser first, then cup, then insert collets and tungsten. Then tighten the back up again. Handle it with great care.
Reply:Just throwing this out there, but Is the collet the right size to hold the tungsten? Is it possible that the tungsten that you changed out is narrower than it's precursor?Originally Posted by Alan MurfeeDeal with it with a fine care in a proper manner. Tighten the diffuser first, then cup, then insert collets and tungsten. Then tighten the back up again. Handle it with great care.
Reply:Hmm .. I just ordered a bunch of stuff from weldingdepot. Is that all made in china, because it seemed really cheap?
Reply:Originally Posted by just_some_dudeHmm .. I just ordered a bunch of stuff from weldingdepot. Is that all made in china, because it seemed really cheap?
Reply:What you want to look for is not standard or pure copper, but copper alloy. Tellurium copper alloy is what Weldcraft and WeldTec make the high performance collets and collet bodies from.Miller has a good write up. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...zles-backcaps/Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Just looked and it says manufactured by Parweld.
Reply:This is what I ordered:Code:Quan Item No. Description Price Extension---- ----------- ------------------------------- -------------- ---------------- 3 54N18 Alumina Gas Lens Nozzle 54N18 $0.83 $2.49 #4 3 54N17 Alumina Gas Lens Nozzle 54N17 $0.83 $2.49 #5 3 54N16 Alumina Gas Lens Nozzle 54N16 $0.83 $2.49 #6 3 54N15 Alumina Gas Lens Nozzle 54N15 $0.83 $2.49 #7 2 57N75 Alumina Gas Lens Nozzle Large $2.23 $4.46 Dia. 57N75 #6 2 45V25 Gas Lens Collet Body 45V25 $4.00 $8.00 .062 2 45V26 Gas Lens Collet Body 45V26 $4.00 $8.00 .093 2 54N01 Nozzle Gasket 54N01 $1.50 $3.00 1 57Y02 Back Cap 57Y02 Long $1.66 $1.66 1 57Y04 Back Cap 57Y04 Short $1.66 $1.66 3 10N31 Collet Body 10N31 .062 $1.57 $4.71 3 10N32 Collet Body 10N32 .093 $1.57 $4.71 3 10N23 Collet 10N23 .062 $0.70 $2.10 3 10N24 Collet 10N24 .093 $0.70 $2.10 1 535606236-1 5356 Aluminum .062 (1/16") x $8.63 $8.63 36" Length 1 lb / pkg 1 S609336-1 ER70S-6 Mild Steel .093 x 36" $5.75 $5.75 1 lb / pkg 1 S606236-1 ER70S-6 Mild Steel .062 x 36" $6.03 $6.03 1 lb / pkg SUBTOTAL $70.77 SALES TAX $0.00 SHIPPING $13.20 ORDER TOTAL $83.97
Reply:Originally Posted by just_some_dudeThis is what I ordered: SUBTOTAL $70.77 SALES TAX $0.00 SHIPPING $13.20 ORDER TOTAL $83.97[/code]
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonIf it is cheap, that is your first clue. Claims made by Parweld
Reply:maybe u got a wrong sized collet? that happened to me b4(from left to right, the 3rd one in ur pic)Lotos CT520D (refunded)Lotos LTPDC2000 (in use, still good) yup, cheap but powerful!hmm...just in case
Reply:Originally Posted by just_some_dudeEarlier you said this ^. Are you saying Parweld is bad or good, I took that as good, but don't know if I misinterpreted.
Reply:That looks like a CK Worldwide "wedge" collet, that got overheated and bent. If so, it would be made out of brass and not copper.Just throw out the bent wedge collet and get a new collet (doesn't need to be another wedge necessarily) - they are cheap regardless of which type you buy. Try to keep things a bit cooler next time. Might want to change the collet body just so everything's fresh, (that style of collet body is very common, and dirt cheap to replace, too.)----Edit: on closer look, I think that might actually be a conventional, copper collet, with slits down the sides. If so, maybe the bent look is a camera illusion and in that case, maybe your collet body isn't screwed in far enough or the pieces are manufactured to the wrong dimensions.Last edited by jakeru; 10-05-2012 at 11:35 PM. |
|
发表于 2021-8-31 23:42:58