Welding aluminum wheels

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My wife's Audi has a chunk taken out of the lip of one of the wheels.  It is purely cosmetic, the tire seals fine, and the removed piece doesn't extend past the turned lip.  I would like to build it up and "machine" it back into shape.  Machine it means hand file, etc.  I have a TA 185TSW, which I think is a bit small to weld a big casting such as this.  I do not have access to helium.Is this something I should not try to repair, it is cosmetic after all?Thanks,Rod
Reply:Do you have a torch?  I have the same machine and have welded thick stuff with helium and preheat but its possible that just preheat will help if you don`t have access to it. The other possibility is Aluminum SMAW electrode if you have a stinger. They run on DCEP and for repairing cast aluminum of unknown chemistry they have worked very well for me.
Reply:To answer you question of if you should I did a few as a favor for a local tire shop in exchangefor a free rim and I was skeptical because of the liability but according to the owner of that tire pros it is common practice for them to get aluminum rims repaired for customers by means of welding and there is even a service that picks up and delivers for like $35 bucks a wheel. Which is pretty damn cheap.
Reply:I welded an alum. wheel for a buddy of mine. It was missing about a 3/4" chunk from the bead. It has held up fine, the truck he has it on sees a lot of off-roading. I used a Precision TIG 375 with a PTW-20 torch. 3/32" tungsten & 3/32" 4043 filler."SOUTHPAW" A wise person learns from another persons mistakes;A smart person learns from their own mistakes;But, a stupid person.............never learns.
Reply:I have a friend that rebuilds aluminum wheels with Helium and a Miller Thunderbolt. DCSP, Helium, and VERY good precleaining. DCRP can be used to etch the surface if needed.Gerald Austinwww.weldingdata.com
Reply:Thanks all.I do have a torch, it's not unpacked from a recent move though.I hate to practice on a wheel that would be very inexpensive to replace.  All my TIG has been on thin AL..Once I get the tire unmounted I'll look at it closer and maybe give it a try.
Reply:Forgot to mention shielding gas; I used straight argon, no helium.
Reply:If you have a junk yard near you, why not go in, tell them what your up to. You might be able to buy a damaged wheel from them for the cost of scrap. You can do a lot of practice on it before the real "test" They might be a customer for your repaired wheels if you master it. One thing to look out for, there is a possibility that it might be magnesium. Not all aluminum looking metal is aluminum. Mag will NOT weld up with alum rod.Just my  opinion, not from a book, just from the road.Howes Welding Inc.www.howesweldinginc.com
Reply:I would say that I am an expert at repairing aluminum rims. I am planning on doing a thread and pictures in the "Welding Projects and Pictures" forum with the next one that comes through the door.Is it just a chunk or is it bent a little too? Most chunks will have the edges bent in or out. Also you want to examine the area of the chunk for any flat spots. The tire will seal to one and it can be balanced out. It just takes less weight to do so the rounder it is.I will do clear pictures and descriptions of what happens step by step. Had a real good rim to do this with show up today, but the guy needs to wait until payday. It had a few issues and it was more $ than he was expecting.If anyone wishes to PM me with questions before I get the post up, feel free to. I should respond within 24hrs.Bill LambertArgon WeldingABQ NMSic gorgiamus allos subjectatos nunc
Reply:So the 4043 is a good choice for this right?is there any need to do a heat treatment after welding or any other post weld process?
Reply:I've tig'd cracked aluminum wheels, but not cast ones, only forged or billet machined.  Here is one I did awhile ago with the TA185 on argon with 4043.First I ground out the crack into a V with the sandpaper flap wheel and drilled the ends to keep it from running further.  I put in a root pass that was full penetration, then a weave cover pass, then I ground the inside and put a cover pass on the inside, then ground both sides down smooth.  Last edited by DesertRider33; 11-15-2009 at 07:56 AM.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Looks like good work DR33. You can work on rims in my shop anytime you want. I use 100% Argon and 4043 filler rod too. I tend to weld the inside first, then grind the other side well into the protruding weld then weld the outside. I only grind off excessive weld, over 1/16", and leave a bit of the surface for added strength. Naturally you would need 100% clean up anywhere the tire seals. Now I am itching for the next rim to come in so I can document it.Bill LambertArgon WeldingABQ NMSic gorgiamus allos subjectatos nunc
Reply:Thanks!MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by yoshimitsuspeedSo the 4043 is a good choice for this right?is there any need to do a heat treatment after welding or any other post weld process?
Reply:Bury it in vermiculite, and it might take root Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I didn't pre-heat or post-heat the wheel I did. It's been holding the air pressure for over a year now. The reason I used 4043 instead of 5356 is, because 5356 tends to be soupier.  BTW- DR33, repair looks good.Last edited by papabear; 11-19-2009 at 01:14 PM."SOUTHPAW" A wise person learns from another persons mistakes;A smart person learns from their own mistakes;But, a stupid person.............never learns.