help welding cable

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so i want to weld a 1/4 inch braded metal cable onto a grade 5 3/4inch bolt, first thing first, i know that  you need to be in a well ventilated area to weld on the galvanized cable.  so i have tried a couple of times, and have no problem getting the weld to hold but the cable starts to break very easy where the weld is, when i weld the cable on i need it to stay plyable, and able to hold for a fairly long time preferably years, anyone have any ideas?  any help is greatly appreciated
Reply:Welding it ain't gonna work.  You could try gun drilling the bolt and inserting the cable, then solder, braze, or secure with set screws.  Welding makes the cable too brittle as you have found out.  I don't know what you're using it for, but you could also weld a chain link to the bolt, loop the cable through it and crimp on a ferral. (sp?)My name's not Jim....
Reply:thanks for the response, we did drill a set hole for it sit in before we welded it and i am thinking of brazing it next, the loop won't work for what i have in mind, set screw won't be strong enough either, this is going to be used to develope a trip system for a snow push, there well be a spring on the back end of it, to give tension on the blade but allow movement. so out of soldering or brazing which one do you think would be strongest.  the amount of force it is going to have to take is something around 500lbs or so.
Reply:if you need to do it, i would try silver solder (less heat input on the cablekind-of like the ends of motorcycle cables are done i think maybe some kind of farrel  ( threaded then us an all thread )idealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:great suggestions, going to try the silver solder tomorrow, never done it before, but i have a couple welder friends that i am sure can help with it. thank you all very much, i am looking forward to showing all my projects here too. (anyone else have any ideas, please share them)
Reply:If that won't work see if you can find a boat shop that caters to sail boats. It's been 20 + years since I worked on my friends 60 ft sail boat, but all the rigging stays for the mast had threaded studs like you want attached to wire rope. I believe it's a special stud made with the farrel already attached and they then just swage on the wire. If you need almost any fitting for wire rope, a good sail shop will probably have what you want..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:i did a little search on this, an found www.sanlo.com had something close to what you may be looking for *****  i will leave the big googling up to you**** " just a start---- threaded studs for wire ropegood luckidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:prop-doctor hit the nail on the head. Sanlo makes what your looking for.If you cannot convince them, confuse them.         Harry S Truman
Reply:awesome, just visited their website, great stuff, thanks again for your responses
Reply:In the city of New York they use lead at the top of freight elevators to lock the cable in. I have had great lengthy discussions about this with the union elevator operators. How the elevators have to be inspected and that lead connection redone every so often. And then approved. It almost looks like they tie a knot in the cable and pour lead around it. But I do not know.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:well i tried sanlo, ended up on hold forever, i well try again monday, so i am going to try the silver soldering, should be interesting
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWIf that won't work see if you can find a boat shop that caters to sail boats. It's been 20 + years since I worked on my friends 60 ft sail boat, but all the rigging stays for the mast had threaded studs like you want attached to wire rope. I believe it's a special stud made with the farrel already attached and they then just swage on the wire. If you need almost any fitting for wire rope, a good sail shop will probably have what you want.
Reply:i tried the silver solder today, man that is pretty easy to do, next i am going to try both lead and brazing, don't know what the price of the silver solder is suppose to be, but i paid $22 bucks for about 2ft of it, which i thought was a little excessive, so next to silver, any suggestions on weither we go lead or brazing? (again thanks for the help guys)
Reply:How about this? Could you drill a 1/4" hole through the bolt, then countersink a nice taper in the end of the bolt. Stick the cable through and then add the crimp ferrule. That way the more tension applied to the cable/ferrule the more it crams it into the taper in the end. The harder you pull the more it crimps.If the ferrel is steel or something you could even braze/solder that to the cable for a little extra grab.If that's not enough you could braze/solder the cable in the bolt haha.Lincoln precision TIG 275Millermatic 140 MIG
Reply:As I mentioned they tied a knot in the cable and then soldered the whole knot. Not actually bonding to the cable. Just surrounding the knot. It lifted all the heavy stuff we had to lift. It had just been done and inspected. The reason for the lead is so that there is no hard or sharp edge to cut the cable. But it looked like they basically tied a big knot, and filled in around the knot with solder. They use a lot of solder, smelting pots worth. The silver solder or silphos is just to hard a material. You have to get it too hot as well. It will brittle the stainless steel cable and probably any steel cable as well.        Sincerely,             William McCormick