The ultimate welding "dolly"

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Hi guys; I'm a rank newbee stick welding but have decided to build (of all things) a welding cart as my first project.  Since I am operating out of a 4'x6' area in my Dad's garage, space is of the essence.  I have come up with the following design and have started construction of the frame. It was designed around scrap metal I had on hand so if the project is a failure, at least it will be a good learning experience and not too costly .The cart will hold my new ('73 vintage) lincoln tombstone and HF 110V flux welder as well as some clamps, my helmet, grinder, and whatever other knick-knacks I can fit in.  The "twist" is that the whole thing will be in the form of a dolly; but a table will swing out for a welding work-surface as shown below.  The entire footprint will be 2' x 2' but with a work-surface area of 36" x 20" when the table is open.  I have already started welding the frame together and have been discovering that distortion is a real problem to content with.  I have, therefore, re-designed the table to be fully adjustable and levelable to compensate for my lack of skill welding.  So far my biggest problem has been slag inclusions in my welds . I'll post some bead pics when I have a chance.pic 1 - welding dolly closedpic 2 - welding dolly with worksurface extendedpic 3 - bare frame detail 1pic 4 - bare frame detail 2 Attached Images
Reply:Seems like a good design.WOW.  Those design drawings look a lot better than my scribble ( and Sam's ) If you do a search, you will find some helpful threads on minimizing distortion.
Reply:Very nice!Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready
Reply:Looks like it might get a bit top heavy.  How's the fab coming?
Reply:Really cool design!
Reply:Originally Posted by wannabe_welderLooks like it might get a bit top heavy.  How's the fab coming?
Reply:Originally Posted by Sonicwonder2000The fab is going really well except for my exceptionally crappy welds.  I did consider the balance issue; the tombstone weighs in at about 110Lbs and my flux core is about 30Lbs.  I think the cart will be fairly stable with all that weight on the bottom, but time will tell
Reply:One thing that you may want to consider, and you may have already taken this into account: what happens to that table when you tilt the dolly back to move everything? The top will stay in place due to the apparent hinge design (very nice by the way), but I would put some sort of latch on the bottom to hold it all together. Even a bungee cord would work, but I would go with something a little more premanent, and less likely to be "borrowed" by someone. The first time someone takes it off and you go to tilt it back, the table will come down and say "hello" to your shins. Just a thought.Other than that, I am also kind of "iffy" when looking at the balance issue. I think you should be fine, especially when the table it out, but if it were me, I would extend the base a little in front, and bring the wheels a little further back. Those clamps, hammers, brushes, grinders, etc. will really start to load that cart up in a hurry. Like I said, that is just me. It may be fine. I agree however: only time will tell for sure.One last question: what re you using for your construction? It looks like square tube and angle from here.Miller TB302Miller Spectrum 1000Miller Spectrum 1251XMT 456 CC/CVCoolmate 4D-74D Dual Wire Feeder2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Chassis Cab (Cummins of course)
Reply:Thanks for the words of encouragement guys - every time I take a look at my welds, I think of scrapping the whole darn project ... Originally Posted by fluffyOne thing that you may want to consider, and you may have already taken this into account: what happens to that table when you tilt the dolly back to move everything? The top will stay in place due to the apparent hinge design (very nice by the way), but I would put some sort of latch on the bottom to hold it all together. Even a bungee cord would work, but I would go with something a little more premanent, and less likely to be "borrowed" by someone. The first time someone takes it off and you go to tilt it back, the table will come down and say "hello" to your shins. Just a thought.Other than that, I am also kind of "iffy" when looking at the balance issue. I think you should be fine, especially when the table it out, but if it were me, I would extend the base a little in front, and bring the wheels a little further back. Those clamps, hammers, brushes, grinders, etc. will really start to load that cart up in a hurry. Like I said, that is just me. It may be fine. I agree however: only time will tell for sure.One last question: what re you using for your construction? It looks like square tube and angle from here.
Reply:I agree with the fact that you want the flux-core unit on the top rack. It really does get to be a pain if you have to move the unit to get into it.As far as the welds are concerned, try this: first and foremost, CLEAN THE METAL!!! Take your grinder and get down to shiney, bare metal, at least 1" back from the joint to be welded. Make sure you clean all sides of the metal, or as many as you can. That alone will help you out tremendously. Use a flap disk, around a 120 grit would work well for you I think.With the thick angle, turn your heat up, but keep your travel speed the same. This will put more heat into the joint, thus helping your bead to lay down a bit more.Also, try to make as many welds as possible in the flat position. Tilt the cart on it's side if need be. There are no rules here. It is your cart, so do what you need to in order to get sound welds. You are obviously not ready to try any out-of-position welds, so bring the work into your realm, rather than trying to challenge yourself right now. Master one technique, then move on after that.Depending on your heat settings/abilities, you may want to pre-heat the metal a little bit. Even enough to sweat the metal and get the moisture out of the area will help with your situation.Other than those things, try making little circles with the puddle as you move along the joint. This is one way of getting the "perfect dimes" effect that everyone at WW has a hard on for. You can also start, move half the distance of one tack weld, hold, move another 1/2 distance of a tack weld, move, etc. This will also give you a stacked effect in your bead. You can also just keep a consistent speed and get a smooth bead.As far as clean-up goes, do yourself a favor early and get yourself a wire wheel and/or cup brush for your grinder. After you use one, you will wonder how you got along without it. I use the stiffest one I can find to get the slag off of FCAW welds.All in all, they are by far the best ever, but you will get the hang of it. We all started somewhere.Miller TB302Miller Spectrum 1000Miller Spectrum 1251XMT 456 CC/CVCoolmate 4D-74D Dual Wire Feeder2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Chassis Cab (Cummins of course)
Reply:Originally Posted by fluffyI agree with the fact that you want the flux-core unit on the top rack. It really does get to be a pain if you have to move the unit to get into it.As far as the welds are concerned, try this: first and foremost, CLEAN THE METAL!!! Take your grinder and get down to shiney, bare metal, at least 1" back from the joint to be welded. Make sure you clean all sides of the metal, or as many as you can. That alone will help you out tremendously. Use a flap disk, around a 120 grit would work well for you I think.With the thick angle, turn your heat up, but keep your travel speed the same. This will put more heat into the joint, thus helping your bead to lay down a bit more.Also, try to make as many welds as possible in the flat position. Tilt the cart on it's side if need be. There are no rules here. It is your cart, so do what you need to in order to get sound welds. You are obviously not ready to try any out-of-position welds, so bring the work into your realm, rather than trying to challenge yourself right now. Master one technique, then move on after that.Depending on your heat settings/abilities, you may want to pre-heat the metal a little bit. Even enough to sweat the metal and get the moisture out of the area will help with your situation.Other than those things, try making little circles with the puddle as you move along the joint. This is one way of getting the "perfect dimes" effect that everyone at WW has a hard on for. You can also start, move half the distance of one tack weld, hold, move another 1/2 distance of a tack weld, move, etc. This will also give you a stacked effect in your bead. You can also just keep a consistent speed and get a smooth bead.As far as clean-up goes, do yourself a favor early and get yourself a wire wheel and/or cup brush for your grinder. After you use one, you will wonder how you got along without it. I use the stiffest one I can find to get the slag off of FCAW welds.All in all, they are by far the best ever, but you will get the hang of it. We all started somewhere.
Reply:Hey, Sonicwonder2000.I'm trying to teach myself stick welding, too. My MIG is usually acceptable, but stick is another story. Try some 7014 rods. I have found them much easier than 6011. Don't even buy 7018 yet, or you'll probably be even more discouraged. The good news is the the more I weld, the better I get and there is still a lot of room for improvement. I like your cart design, and I like your CAD drawings. I'll bet you have spent a lot more time with your computer than your welder. Now think about your first CAD drawings. See, you'll be a much better welder soon.It is a great hobby and if you're young and so inclined, it can be a great career. Plus you'll always have friends wanting you to fix something.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:I don't mean to alarm you Sonicwonder2000, but somebody stole the guts out of your Tombstone.I agree with fluffy on your welds - more heat.  If you've got enough scrap, do some practice welds until you get it the way it should be then turn it loose on the cart.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Wb4rt - Stick is a b*tch, ain't it! I think that 7014 is a DC rod if I am not mistaken.  My tombstone is the straight old AC design; I'm using 6013 which is a little less agressive than 6011, but it has a LOT of flux (I think it might be akin to a 7018).  Thanks for the compliments on my CAD skills, sketch-up makes it easy duaneb55 - I cut the dern thing open and laid waste to the guts when I saw the weld beads it created (like I had nothing to do with those beads). I'm a little afraid of more heat because I am already burning though my 1/8" material.  I guess my arc length must have gotten long and burned through?  Part of the problem is I'm using a buch of different stock thicknesses and when I feel like I have enough penetration on the thicker piece, it burns through the thinner piece. What is a good way to weld a fillet between 1/8" to 1/4" stock?
Reply:Originally Posted by Sonicwonder2000duaneb55 - I cut the dern thing open and laid waste to the guts when I saw the weld beads it created (like I had nothing to do with those beads).
Reply:keep your rod angled slightly more towards the 1/4" piece. You will be adding more heat to the piece that needs it. Then weave. Like was said before, bring the work to you, not the other way around. Lay the cart down to get a flat weld joint as much as possible. There is no reason to try and give yourself a hard time by trying vertical or overhead joints right now. Master the basics, then move on.One thing to keep in mind, like Duane said, get some practice metal and try to get the slag to peel itself off. If you are doing everything just right, the slag will start to crack and curl up from the start of the weld on its own, before you even break the arc. It's hard to do, but once you get practice and some more arc time, you will see how your specific welder works and how it reacts to different settings, rods, etc.Miller TB302Miller Spectrum 1000Miller Spectrum 1251XMT 456 CC/CVCoolmate 4D-74D Dual Wire Feeder2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Chassis Cab (Cummins of course)
Reply:By the way, how have you been storing your rods? keep them dry. No matter the rod, I try to warm them up a little bit before use. Not everyone has a rod warmer/oven, but you can put them in front of a high-powered lightbulb for a while. Think of an easy-bake oven on steroids.Miller TB302Miller Spectrum 1000Miller Spectrum 1251XMT 456 CC/CVCoolmate 4D-74D Dual Wire Feeder2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Chassis Cab (Cummins of course)
Reply:Fluffy & duaneb55 - I would like to blame my rods but they are brand new and stored in one of those air tight rod containers.  I'm afraid I personally am responsible for the suckiness of these welds  Thanks for the tips; I'm gonna practice a little later today.Last edited by Sonicwonder2000; 04-30-2009 at 12:39 PM.
Reply:Keep at it.  Nobody starts in the major leagues.  Eventually you'll be able to look back and reminisce about how you USED to weld.
Reply:Thanks for all the kind words guys - hopefully this darn thing wont fall apart while using it Here's a quick question for those in the know: when welding a mitered angle-iron corner, how do you prevent burnthrough at the end of the weld? Also, how do you fill rather substantial (1/8") gaps when the fit-up is not great; I get the same problem - burnthrough . Attached Images
Reply:Bondo.wait, no, that's not the right answer at all, sorry!
Reply:In looking at your welds, the heat issue aside, one thing is glaring...You are not watching the puddle.  I had the same issue.  Once I learned to watch the puddle, and watch it flow, my welds changed overnite.
Reply:practice makes perfect. looks like a cool design and when you do put it together you may find different things that you might want to changeand make them better. that is the greatnessabout metal. you can always cut it off and reweld it to the way you want it.If you like my stuff you can find me on Facebook.  https://www.facebook.com/theangryanv...ngryanvilforge
Reply:Originally Posted by PookieIn looking at your welds, the heat issue aside, one thing is glaring...You are not watching the puddle.  I had the same issue.  Once I learned to watch the puddle, and watch it flow, my welds changed overnite.
Reply:Okay - the good, the bad, and the fugly.  My welding dolly is about 75% done; I have yet to add some hanging fixtures for tools, a swingout table, and a few other goodies I have lined up.  The welds are horribly ugly but will hold ... hopefully when the table is done, I'll be able to practice a bit more  A big thanks to everyone who has been helping me improve my pathetic (but improving ) skills! Here are a few update pics - as usual, there is crap all over the dolly already, but I'll take "neat" pics when the proj is done.PS: YES - I purchased the tombsone without a back. It is a circa 1973 welder, rusted to all hell, buit works gr8  Attached ImagesI cant tell but is there a fan in that welder?
Reply:Nope.  But I have never used it at over 90A thus far, and only for limited amounts of time.
Reply:practice practice practice you will just get better ,try a little whip back at the end of the miter weld you, could also start the weld at the point you  are burning through and finish the weld in the corner where the angle meets,your cad pictures are awesome what program are you using? VERY impressive how you thought it out before you started. Dont be afraid to break the flux off some rods and use as a gap filler.One thing you might want to incorperate into the design is a small vice and if you use some angle as support ribs under your table leave them back far enuf so you can use c clamps or vice grips to hold your work
Reply:Originally Posted by fishermanpractice practice practice you will just get better ,try a little whip back at the end of the miter weld you, could also start the weld at the point you  are burning through and finish the weld in the corner where the angle meets,your cad pictures are awesome what program are you using? VERY impressive how you thought it out before you started. Dont be afraid to break the flux off some rods and use as a gap filler.One thing you might want to incorperate into the design is a small vice and if you use some angle as support ribs under your table leave them back far enuf so you can use c clamps or vice grips to hold your work
Reply:This project is finally "done".  I put that in quotes because the design has evolved quite a bit but I am sure there will be future mods when I get gas with my MIG welder.  The project has been quite trying but I've learned a bunch and I'm pretty happy with the outcome.  I believe the dolly now lives up to the term "ultimate".  It has a ton of storage space, small footprint, a utility worksurface,  and is ergonomically designed for my body. A big thanks to everyone here who has assisted me in this thread and others!Things I learned: (here to remind me if I ever forget )1) Stick welding decently requires good consumables. I don't know if the lincoln 6013 rods I bought at Home Cheapo were too old/defective, but the 6011 from Harbor Freight runs circles around them.  I got really great beads after switching?!? Slag inclusions were gone.2) Making fillet welds of thin material to thick material: I read it would help to favor the thicker material. I actually found that when welding a small thin trinket to thicker material, the thicker material acted like a heat sink drawing heat away from the joint. This would cause a cold weld which didn't stick to the thinner material!  The solution was to up the amps a bit, and lay the bead at 45 degrees to either surface. Also to make sure that BOTH surfaces were wetted with molten metal before proceeding forward with the bead.3) Welding distorts flat metal.  Welds contract and pucker surrounding metal in towards the bead l as they cool. - The key is to try to equalize the distortion.  I learned the hard way, my table-top is off-flat by about 1/8" across the surface .4) Paint fixes a multitude of sins.  No matter how ugly a bead is, it WILL look better with paint on it!5) The dolly concept is pretty much a no go with this much loaded on the cart.  I ended up adding front wheels and a front storage shelf to make transport easier.  The table is stable but certainly not for beating metal on.  This is a good, light-duty, worksurface. The cart, although tall, is still rock-stable.
Reply:Oh yeah ... the pics.  I'm taking a page from the farmersamm book of posting to up my post-count . Here they are ...PS: a picto-chronicle of construction is available at :http://s704.photobucket.com/albums/w...view=slideshow
Reply:A few views with the table closed. Attached Images
Reply:And with the table swung out... Attached Images
Reply:And to the man who put up with me monopolizing (manopolizing?) his garage for a month to put this all together.  THANKS DAD!!  Attached Images
Reply:It looks totally loaded and cluttered when closed up for storage(as it should) and then transforms into a pretty nifty workstation when unfolded and everything makes sense. I'd say you accomplished your original goal of something to contain all the supplies and still be able to turn it into a small work table.I like it... I don't have those machines or a need for the compact design of it,but I can see how functional it would be in a two car garage or smaller area for those that are restricted for space.What do you figure you have in it material wise...I'm sure less than those non-functional tin tube factory made ones.
Reply:Wow.  Just wow.  Great job on the mini-welding station.  Adding the front wheels was a good idea, considering how much stuff you have, but still very compact.Rule #4: right on .......
Reply:I'd cover that tombstone up, sparks from welding might find their way in there. plus it would look better.the ones with backs also have a storage type shelf for your cables too.
Reply:Nice cart...sketch-up is a neat tool..the cart is user friendly and has a small footprint..esp. helpful when space is limited. I started out stick welding with no guidelines or help from a forum such as this..started on 2 3/8 pipe and when I went to the smaller stuff..angle and sq tubing...all I did was burn holes..but with practice,,practice and more practice was able to find the right settings and right rods. Good luck on your next project..Again good job.
Reply:A)  VERY cool cart.  I'm not even a welder (yet?) and I want one!B) For anyone wanting to learn Sketchup, there are videos on Google's site for it, and...Sketchup for Dummies video links.   http://www.aidanchopra.com/This is the Youtube page of the The Sketchup show... http://www.youtube.com/user/4sketchupgo2school  There's not a handy linked-up video table of contents like there is on the Sketchup for Dummies page, but you can use the list on their web site here... ( http://www.go-2-school.com/podcasts ) and then search for the show number on YouTube, or install the Quicktime plugin to watch straight from the website.  (The videos using Quicktime are a little bit higher visual quality than the ones on YouTube, but the content is the same.)  The Sketchup Show is a free thing, but they are selling more advanced instruction.  I find the free videos to be very worthwhile.If you've ever wanted to try to "build" stuff virtually before trying it in the flesh, Sketchup is a GREAT way to do so, and it's 100% free.  I highly recommend it.
Reply:Thanks for the compliments guys; I'm jazzed with how it turned out - my only regret is that the dern table top turned out being not completely square  !I used a big scrap heap that I had accumulated over the last year that included three bedframes, a murphy bed, and some thin-walled tubing.  Including consumables and supplies I have about  $80 into the table:frame: scrap $0dolly wheels: scrap $0electrodes: $18misc hardware fixtures: $15front casters: $10shelving sheet: (from metal-supply scrap bin) $15table top sheet: (from metal-supply scrap bin) $15misc tubing/flat bar (from metal supply scrap bin) $10A little trick I discovered while making the unit is to leverage existing holes in the bedframe angle iron.  This stuff is VERY difficult to drill, so I would save sections that had pre-drilled rivit or screw holes into my scrap bin.  Later, when a hole was needed, I would frankenstein-weld these sections into place to prevent having to drill holes.  Increased the time necessary to weld the unit together, but saved a few drill bits I'm sure..Sketch-up is a great tool for sure.  I used to use Solidworks, but sketch-up is much easier to use, and the cost is right (free).  It takes about 10 hours of practice to get completely proficient at it, but it is a Godsend when it comes to fleshing out concepts.Next projects are already lined up: cnc router and a utility to boat trailer mod.Last edited by Sonicwonder2000; 05-25-2009 at 03:31 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by Sonicwonder2000A little trick I discovered while making the unit is to leverage existing holes in the bedframe angle iron.  This stuff is VERY difficult to drill, so I would save sections that had pre-drilled rivit or screw holes into my scrap bin.  Later, when a hole was needed, I would frankenstein-weld these sections into place to prevent having to drill holes.  Increased the time necessary to weld the unit together, but saved a few drill bits I'm sure..
Reply:I've heard that the metal needs to be cooled very slowly to anneal properly.  Having an el-cheapo HF drill-press and drill set, I didn't want to take the chance of futzing around with heat annealing. I should probably give it a go sometime though just to see how much heating and cooling actually helps ... PS: That tomstone back will ultimately get covered up.  The body design has changed and a new back ($75 BTW!) is not available for the old-style circa '73 body.  This will require a pressbrake and perhaps a bandsaw ... hrmm ... might be a good excuse to get some NEW TOOLS!?!? Last edited by Sonicwonder2000; 05-25-2009 at 06:32 PM.
Reply:do it!
Reply:Can someone tell me how to remove something once I've posted it? I didn't realize this thread was so old. Now I can't get out of itLast edited by HundredaireSocialite; 05-31-2010 at 11:10 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by HundredaireSocialiteCan someone tell me how to remove something once I've posted it? I didn't realize this thread was so old. Now I can't get out of it
Reply:Originally Posted by wannabe_welderLooks like it might get a bit top heavy.  How's the fab coming?
Reply:That looks pretty awesome....only thing I would add is some tubes for your rods....otherwise....pretty slick.
Reply:Im no expert, and im almost as nooby as they come, but:Try to keep your hands steady, your welds look kinda like you were moving the rod faster in some spots, and slower in others... Feel free to try different rods... Ive only used the 4 most popular ones, and my favorite is 7018. Its a great all porpose rod, and it looks awesome even if youre really new like me. 6013 is a lower penetration rod, and doesnt get very much. I think its used mostaly for thin stuff, sheet metal, and the like. 6011 is a very hot burning, high penetration rod... Its for thicker stuff, and places you need alot of penetration. For me atleast, its pretty ugly and really hard to use...7018 is my favotire, like i said... Its even easy to use... Haha...Good luck man!!
Reply:I realize I am pulling up an old thread but…How much of a beating has that worktable taken? How much weight have you supported on it?Is setting up the table difficult / anything you would change about the table design?I was about to start a cart then happened upon your thread, I do plan to make the cart for a larger machine, and I was thinking of using the pull handle as a lower brace for the table, mind you this would make my cart almost 8’ long if I were to add this…. Or perhaps if I added a shelf to the side…
Reply:I like what you have done.. If you are ever near San Diego you may be flatterd by seeing a copy of your dolly.