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i am a beginner i'm having a problem i've tried to find a good answer for just reading threads and searching but haven't had much luck.i can't get the weld bead to flatten out while practicing on 1/4" scrapi'm using a 170 amp 220 volt century welder with 75 25 argon c02i know it maxes out on around 3/16" steal but i figured i could still get a decent bead on 1/4". is this wrong or can i still get a decent bead? or is it not able to penetrate deep enough to sink into the base metal?i've tried every setting witht the wire feed and voltage.i'm going to try on a smaller piece but i just need to find or buy one, just wanted to see what you guys think.
Reply:Are you pushing or pulling? What torch angle are you holding. What diameter filler metal? What flow rate? Are you using ER70s-2,-3 or-6 or something else?
Reply:I have the same mig. I'll get back to you tonight.
Reply:Jeff, some of your statements have me puzzled, are we talking about the same Century 170, model 117-079?The 170 rating is as follows; 230 volts [198 v min, 245 v max], 130 A @ 30% duty cycle, Open circuit voltage 34 v max, [measured 33 v], 24 gauge to 5/16 in. mild steel.Ive found that the Heat control is maxed out at 7.5+, 8 or more makes little difference because the electronics is wide open. Therefore, if you have the heat full clockwise it should be more than enough heat. Ive also found that whatever the chart under the cover recommends for the heat-thickness setting, the wire feed is about half that value to get in the ballpark. The recommended settings for 1/4 in. E70S-6, 0.035 wires with C-25 gas is Heat=6 and feed speed 3-4. These numbers should have you in the ballpark. Now for the details: What type of joint are you attempting to weld, Butt or a T? Preparation, none, one side v-grove with 1/16-1/8 in. land, two side v-grove, gap, open or closed?Gun technique, push, or pull? Push, gives a flatter bead with less penetration, pull gives a higher bead with deep penetration.How much wire stick-out, 1/4 to 3/8 in? Are you keeping the wire-arc in the puddles leading edge? If the wire is not at the leading edge, you may be over welding the bead, lots of energy doing little good, poor penetration. How the weld bead flows is dependent on the voltage setting, heat = a wet bead. This leads to the ground clamp connection, is it tight and in a clean location?Have you tuned the wire feed rate to the selected heat, good stable arc with little or no spatter?I dont think you have a gas problem or you would be seeing porous beads.You say 220 volts, the 170 is 230 volts. Transformers are proportional, if the input voltage is low or high that will be reflected in the output voltage.At this time of year, my 230 is running 238 to 243 volts and I measure 33 volts from the ground clamp to the contact tip. So, while welding do you have 230 volts at the wall outlet.Lets stop here for now.
Reply:so many questions thanks so much for helping me.ok it's a century 170gs looks like its from the 90s or something. pushing and pulling using the correct distances. tried using perpendicular to 15 degrees. using er70s-6. .035 diameter. not doing a joint just practicing on plate. i tried it with the heat all the way up and low wire speed. i tried going rediculously slow to try to make it really sloppy but no matter what i do it looks like a worm or caterpillar. sticking up off the plate like 2 or 3 cm? like a long bubble. the ground wire might not have been optimal but i ground off a spot to stick it on the plate and ground the plate clean before.
Reply:Do you have the correct polarity? Solid wire and gas runs reverse polarity (torch positive).MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:i don't know how do i check. it was set up for flux core when i got it. would the wrong polarity yield these types of weld beads?
Reply:A quick answer is that you are practicing on flat plate and not filling any type of joint. Your using the machines highest output but not giving the metal a space to fill so its just laying on top. Try using the settings for 1/8" and when your running your bead have them overlap by 1/2 a width.
Reply:yea that quick answer is what i first thought . does that happen to you guys on a flat piece though? also i can easily change the polarity with 2 copper tabs that reverse it but i dont see it labeled anywhere . is there a trick to telling which is which?
Reply:ok i'm an idiot it says on the cover what way to set the copper jumpers for flux core vs mig i'll go try that and i'll also try it set up for 1/8" and see what results that gives
Reply:If your 170 is like mine, there should be a chart on the flip up cover. In the upper right corner, there is a diagram of the position of two bars that change the polarity. The bars are located just above the wire feeder. Use a nut driver and dont over tighten.One of the results of doing practice welds on flat plate is that you will see the results on top, how the bead forms as the heat and wire feed are changed.And on the backside face under the bead to judge the extent of the penetration. The penetration pattern will range from barley seeing heat discoloration to big globs of melt through. I couldnt find the site that shows both sides of the plate, this should give you an idea.1/4 inch plate is way too thick for such testing youd be better off with 1/8 inch to practice on. 1/4 plate is sucking the heat out of the arc. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/learning-mig.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by JeffreyColei don't know how do i check. it was set up for flux core when i got it. would the wrong polarity yield these types of weld beads?
Reply:wow it's like night and day. it's behaving like every other welder i've ever seen now. i knew i wasn't that bad hehe, thanks so much guys. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:41:39