shape of tig bead.

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I've been tig welding for a few months now and have posted some of my projects.  I've tested my welds by hammering, BFH hammering, cross section cuts and so on (no x-ray), they hold up quite well.  The stuff i weld is between 1/16 to 5/8" thick, square/round tubing, plates... so on.  I'm pretty confident now about making a weld that will hold up, but I want my welds to look better.  I realize the distance between each "dime" is dictated by how far i drag my puddle (between dipping filler).  my question is, is the shape of each dime dictated by torch angle? amount of filler? or a combination of torch angle and amount of filler material? also, my "dimes" are spaced unevenly, i know i need to be more consistent on how far i push the puddle, i'll work on that.  can you share your tips?  thanks in advance.
Reply:Torch angle, amount of filler, travel speed, amperage, filler material type, wave balance, base material type, shielding gas...There are a lot of variables.
Reply:Sooooooooo many variables! I've trained other people to tig. I can get them to make structurally sound welds, but when it comes down to teaching them to get that even stack of dimes look, I have to be there looking over their shoulder to know how to help them improve. Usually involves them running a pass, followed by me demo-ing what I saw them doing, then demo-ing what needs changed, then them running another better looking  (hopefully) pass. It's an art, and it's going to take practice.  It helps alot to have a good rythm. If you can find some music with a beat you can dip your rod to, you may find it helps. Just keep your travel speed steady.
Reply:rhythm huh?  I got rhythm, i'm a classical musician for chrisssakes!  unfortunately, when it comes to melted metal, rhythm only lasts for 4 or 5 dips of filler rod.  I'll work on that then.
Reply:Even though rhythm is your "thing", here's a tip to try if you have a pulse feature on your machine:  Try setting it to a low setting (<1.0 pps) so that you get a pulse about every second or two, and use that timing to prompt you when to dip your filler rod and then move.  It eliminates one more of those variables.  I went to a metal supplier and bought tons of cut-offs of different sized aluminum, then spent hours with the plasma cutter making my coupons.  Then I experimented like crazy, writing all the settings, particularly what changed or technique I did differently on each finished weld.   Give it a try- you'll see your progress and what worked well/what didn't.   I think the biggest trick in making beautiful TIG welds (as I'm finding out myself) can be summed up in one word:  PRACTICE!Lincoln AC225 & MigPak 140, Lincoln Magnum SpoolGun, Miller Spectrum 375-X Plasma, Syncrowave 200 TIG, Millermatic 252 MIG, Miller Digital Elite, General 7x12" horiz/vert bandsaw, 3' box/pan brake, 20 ton press, milling machine, 12x28 lathe, etc.
Reply:i have Syncrowave 180SD.  no pulsing, nothing digital, all analog knobs.  I'm lucky to have a welder that does AC.  i know i have to practice more.  i have welded coupons after coupons, then welded the welded coupons together... all into giant balls of coupons about a foot in diameter (i got 3 of those, they're heavy).  I'm used to practice my music stuff about 2 hours a day, everyday (i'm retired now though), so i know about the need to practice.  just looking for a little nudge in the right direction.