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Ok I have my cheapy HF 80 amp inverter welder and so far love it. It can start and maintain a decent arc, at least that could also be attributed to my natural welding skill. My manufacturing engineering instructor told me I took to arc welding like a fish to water, in class within 2 really old crappy previously wet 6011 rods I could lay down solid beads without sticking, and weld a verticle t-joint.I bought several different brands of 3/32" 6011 rods, HF Quikstrike, Lincoln, and Radnor. HF 6011 lays down very easily, almost like a 6013 but with more penetration, it does generate more slag to the point where you can't really see the weld pool and deposition very well. Radnor is ok, good penetration, light slag, easy to see the weld. Lincoln is an entirely different beast. It penetrates deep, burns hot, very little slag so seeing the puddles and bead forming makes for easily predictable results and weld control, though I do notice it is a glassy kind of slag that doesn't just fall off the weld as easily as the other slags which seemed more carbonaceous. Also one more thing it is significantly more difficult to start the arc, of course it's the cheap welder but I do find myself having to resort to the gouging rod trick. For those who don't know it, it is holding a plain gouging rod at the start of the weld and starting your arc on it and moving the arc to the work. Cheating? Maybe but it does work.
Reply:i like the hobart. they make it with the red flux and the gray flux, i seem to get better results from the gray.if radnor made buckets i wouldnt pee in them.
Reply:Why 6011. They are harder to run than most other AC Rods. JGSMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases. There all here. :
Reply:For the limited amount of power I've got 6011 penetrates the deepest and is also good for rusty and dirty metals. I have no problem running it and making a clean bead on joints, just a little trouble starting it since it's a cheap welder. |
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