MIG torch cable cover

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After some practicing with my Clarke TurboWeld 150EN last week I noticed smoke coming from the machine....about crapped myself. Closer look showed it was the torch lead insulation. I always knew the leads heated up fastest as they were ridiculously undersized. Not sure on the gauge but literally less than half the diameter of 4 gauge lead, maybe 8 or 10 gauge.Now I'm putting #4 leads on it since I have 50' in good shape lying around. #4 work lead was no problem. Torch cable cover is too small to fit a #4 though. Current cover is about1/2"ID flexible rubber conduit typr material, I figure 3/4"ID would be perfect.I went to both my LWS's, Home Depot, OSH, and a local hydraulics shop looking for a suitable replacement with no luck. Flexible nonmetallic conduit is too stiff. LWS just laughed when I told them machine type and tried selling me $200 torch kits. Hydraulic shop had some nice hoses but again too stiff.I looked at watercooled TIG torch cable covers but they're expensive at the LWS and I think MIG sparks would trash a nylon one pretty quick.I considered trying to make one with heavy cotton canvas and a zipper but I can't sew.Any other ideas on where to buy a good flexible cover material by the foot?I need my machine asap to practice for a weld test next week, build a 4" cube square, sealed and pretty.Last edited by hypothecary; 10-31-2012 at 03:06 PM.Miller Syncrowave 250 w/ PC-300 pulserLincoln AC/DC 225/125Clarke TurboWeld 150ENJackson Halo w/ gold lensHuntsman w/ blue lensDoing sanitary stainless tig
Reply:http://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?ma...x&cPath=13_671
Reply:Yeah, I'm just going to go pick up a leather snap closure one from the LWS so I don't have to wait on shipping. I'll be able to cut it to fit. Didn't want to fork out so much but I think its for the best.Miller Syncrowave 250 w/ PC-300 pulserLincoln AC/DC 225/125Clarke TurboWeld 150ENJackson Halo w/ gold lensHuntsman w/ blue lensDoing sanitary stainless tig
Reply:If you're in a hurry, exhaust wrap + stapler might be easier to get ahold of locally.
Reply:I have a few rolls of header wrap but to be honest I didn't want to bother with the effort knowing I'd have to do it again.I took in my recycling and scrap metal then got a leather tig cord cover with buttons. Got the #4 torch lead installed, installed a metal wire liner to replace the lame plastic tube, added 3' to torch making it 8' overall. 5' was just damn annoying but I wanted to keep it short still so I'm not straining the feed motor.I only ran it a few minutes tonight but I noticed an immediate difference. Much more stable arc and now I can use the 11lb roll I was dreading respooling to 2lb'ers. Before with the 11lb roll it wouldn't feed at a constant rate, like it was hanging up every other second. Feeds smooth now.Tomorrow I am going to replace the cable between the rectifier and positive dinse connector with #4 cable then I'll push it to see where it heats up first.Miller Syncrowave 250 w/ PC-300 pulserLincoln AC/DC 225/125Clarke TurboWeld 150ENJackson Halo w/ gold lensHuntsman w/ blue lensDoing sanitary stainless tig
Reply:Just thought I'd update.Tig cable cover works great, should have just bought it and not bothered with the thread but oh well.Larger leads don't heat up at all. Fastest part to heat up now is either the rectifier or the aluminum wire from inductor to negative dinse connetor.Next up is a fan upgrade then I'm considering adding capacitor/bridge rectifier/etc like guys do with these cheepo mig units.Miller Syncrowave 250 w/ PC-300 pulserLincoln AC/DC 225/125Clarke TurboWeld 150ENJackson Halo w/ gold lensHuntsman w/ blue lensDoing sanitary stainless tig
Reply:Sometimes it's easier to bite the bullet and go for what you wanted in the first place instead of trying to get there one step at a time. Glad you're seeing improvements. Show some beads already.