AL tig welding help?

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ok i have been tig welding for a while and i havn't tried much aluminum. I kinda have the hang of the corner welds. but the t-joint is really screwing with me. I'm using a syncro 200 on all welds.corner weld- set at 170 amps, 3/32 filler, 1/8 sheet, 15 cfhnow the t-joint is were my big problems come out. It gets a gritty finish to it, and i was welding on less amps then on the corner joints. The tie ins look ok and i was dabing fast. any help to rectify this would be great.t-joint- set at 150 amps, 3/32 filler, 1/8 to 16g tube, 15cfh It is bugging me on the grutty welds as it just ruins the look of the weld, and i don't know if it is a strength issue also.any help would be great.
Reply:looks good from the pics. maybe your filler is/was out of the gas envelope when you start a new stick that can cause the probhit it with a SS wire brush and it should look good there will be others chime in for more help overall looks goodidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:Are you cleaning the base metal pieces REALLY good with a dedicated stainless steel brush before you weld? And no contamination of the tungsten? The beads look good, just...yea, it would bug me too. What type of tungsten are you using?"SOUTHPAW" A wise person learns from another persons mistakes;A smart person learns from their own mistakes;But, a stupid person.............never learns.
Reply:Originally Posted by papabearAre you cleaning the base metal pieces REALLY good with a dedicated stainless steel brush before you weld? And no contamination of the tungsten? The beads look good, just...yea, it would bug me too. What type of tungsten are you using?
Reply:Originally Posted by mgroshongI'm using 3/32 red tungsten. I think i need to move up to 1/8" though as i get some little points like the tungsten is getting to hot.
Reply:I use a gas lense, and have a number 8 cup. The 1/8"  is a idea that i was looking to get validated, and that is good to know i was right on something, haha. lanthinated= green? if so i have a box of it. only 3/32 thoughthanks
Reply:No, Green is pure. Don't even bother with that stuff, it's no good for inverter or square wave anyway. My lanthinated is black, but that varies depending on percentage.
Reply:And to verify, the 1/8" is not necessary at all. I use 3/32" on alum. castings that are much thicker than what you are working with.                                            As for color codes: 2% Lanthanated Blue (+) (*) Yellow-Green1.5% Lanthanated Gold (+) (*) (*)1% Lanthanated Black Black Black"SOUTHPAW" A wise person learns from another persons mistakes;A smart person learns from their own mistakes;But, a stupid person.............never learns.
Reply:Try cleaning the filler rod itself maybe; give it a wipe down. If it persists, try a different grade filler. I see the same issues with 4043 filler, so I tend to stick to 5356.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Originally Posted by papabearNo, Green is pure. Don't even bother with that stuff, it's no good for inverter or square wave anyway.