Couple-a-flanges...

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Hi all.Pipe welder in training here. Welded up a couple of flanges + conc. reducers tonight. Just wondering if any of you can identify problem spots on these and tell me what caused said thing to happen etc etc. Ive learned alot already from the forum and reading through so much of this stuff it makes my head hurt. Now im just trying to put it to practice. E6010 DCEP root7018 DCEN capFlange 1Flange 2V groove butt weld nippleThanks for any info you can give! I promise I wont use this forum as a depository for nothing but my practice stuff.  These are actually being used (in a non critical environment of course)
Reply:The butt weld on the pipe looks good with the exception of the arc strikes in the second one and the spatter on the first.  Flap wheel the arc strikes and hit the spatter with a chisel to knock off the easy ones.Flange 1 picture 2 it seems that you were moving a little fast on the cover.  I would pass it on inspection, but look at the next one a little closer.
Reply:Exactly the kind of thing i was looking for. Thank you! Are arc-strikes detrimental to a weldment, or can they be, or are they just ugly?
Reply:No arc strikes outside of the weld joint!  They are considered to be stress raises and are sometimes regarded as a reason for rejection and will have to have a procedure for repair on certain materials/jobs.  A quick hit with a tigerpaw could get you fired if caught doing it.Your cap should be smooth and even along the entire weld.  You should not be able to tell where any restarts were made.  There should not be any pissers run to fill in low spots.  I can see several on the flange weld.  You either need to turn up your amperage, use a larger rod for your cap or run multiple passes for your cap.  You have several places that look like a lack of fusion or cold lap.  X-ray or UT will tell the story of the inside of your welds.  7018 should be run DCEP.Have you done any root and face or side bends yet? Practice and look for any defects and concentrate on avoiding them.  Then practice some more.  Be your own worst critic!  Then do it again.  Make it so no one can find anything to complain about and you will be well on your way as a successful welder in the trade.Good luck and keep practicing, Bob.Last edited by Bob the Welder; 02-17-2011 at 10:03 AM."The man of great wealth owes a peculiar obligation to the State, because he derives special advantages from the mere existence of government."  Teddy RooseveltAmerican by birth, Union by choice!  Boilermakers # 60America is a Union.
Reply:I agree with bobthewelder.  the lower toe line in the photo below looks cold and not well tied-in.  So does the upper toe-line for that matter.Why are you running E7018 in DCEN polarity?  I've always run E7018 in DCEP polarity.  What diameter rods are you using?It's tough to judge size in the photos, but I'm guessing you'd do better with a 2 bead cap using 1/8"(3.2mm) E7018.  Depending on the size of the fillet, you might get by with a single bead cap using 5/32" or 3/16" diameter rods.  Note:  to use 3/16" rods, you will probably be limited to making the weld in the 2G(pipe vertical, fillet horizontal) position.  Originally Posted by slow6iHi all.Pipe welder in training here. Welded up a couple of flanges + conc. reducers tonight. Just wondering if any of you can identify problem spots on these and tell me what caused said thing to happen etc etc. Ive learned alot already from the forum and reading through so much of this stuff it makes my head hurt. Now im just trying to put it to practice. E6010 DCEP root7018 DCEN capFlange 1Thanks for any info you can give! I promise I wont use this forum as a depository for nothing but my practice stuff.  These are actually being used (in a non critical environment of course)
Reply:Bob, I've never heard the term 'pissers' before.  I learn something new everyday.  Can you explain just what you were refering to?  I think I know what you're talking about, but I want to make sure. Originally Posted by Bob the WelderThere should not be any pissers run to fill in low spots.  I can see several on the flange weld.
Reply:What size 7018 rod are you using for the butt weld? I suggest 3/32 if it's not what your using.Your high lows look good.Zero to no arch strikes at all... I have seen a few pipe weldors use non insulated Jackson stingers. I see no problem using these stingers for pipe that has a coating, when the joint is only exposed. On the flange to reducer...Looks like you have a lazy shoulder.Classic 1D 200SAE 30086 SA 200Hyperthem 45Jancy Mag Force O/A Victor-GossCable's remote2-12" Mathey Dearman bevelersLN 25Miller Auto Set 211Wendy's Pancake/Jackson PipelinerNew Holland LS 180Great story man....tell it again!
Reply:Pipe welding takes alot of practice but will come in time. Generally with flanges you want to continue your weave right to the shoulder of the joint to eliminate any negative stress flow lines. With that size of a flange, one 6010 root put in hot and whipped to give you some weld deposition should be used. Then cleaned very well, eliminate any high spots as those will show up on your capping pass. I personally turn my machine up to about 125amps using 1/8" 7018, now when doing the capping pass dont worry about how many rods it takes to get around the joint, slow down and weave and let the puddle do the work, watch the edge of the shoulder on the flange, weave so the puddle simply just touches the edge and weave back to catch the reducer. You are getting close, the reason its high in the middle is your not jumping fast enough across during the weave. Practice makes perfect!
Reply:By A_DAB_will_do;Bob, I've never heard the term 'pissers' before.
Reply:@BobtheWelder - No. I havent done any bends at all... Maybe thats something I should look at! @A_dab_will_do - I was running those settings because I dont know any better! Actually, i asked google about running 6010 in DCEN or DCEP and came across another forum where a guy was doing exactly what I was doing. 1/8" E6010 and 3/32 7018. @Huckxc - What do you mean a "lazy shoulder"? Root pass was a 1/8" 6010, and 3/32" 7018 cap on all welds. @Pressure_Welder - Thanks for the tips. Ill work on all of these tonight.
Reply:On the slip flange I'd suggest turning your heat up about 5 amps and pay close attention to your puddle, also its good your staying on the reducer not on the flange, keep on practicing it will come in time
Reply:Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doBob, I've never heard the term 'pissers' before.  I learn something new everyday.  Can you explain just what you were refering to?  I think I know what you're talking about, but I want to make sure.
Reply:I believe you are correct Duane. We also call quick fill welds "pisser passes". Usually to cover undercut, roll or a thin weld. The pisser pass is better than leaving the weld unfinished but the proper way to fix these issues is to grind and re-weld.I don't believe the pisser passes will pass weld inspection if the part is considered important for strength but I have had weld inspectors allow these passes to fill in if there is no major structural strength concern.You would never see this on a lifting lug which would be major load bearing.(basically Bob explained it in his earlier post)Last edited by oxygen454; 02-20-2011 at 03:09 PM.
Reply:His pisser pass actually has major roll which means no penetration or weld on the bottom plate lol.