Helmets - what do you get for the money.

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Hi Everyone,I've been using a fairly cheap (70 Australian dollars) auto darkening helmet for a while now but would like to upgrade at some point. I do believe in quality and consider it a long term investment both in terms of functionality and how good it makes you feel every time you use it. I consider a welding helmet to be just as important as the welding machines, it is the window to the weld puddle you want to see so clearly.What are you getting when you buy a mid range and even the top of the range helmets like Speedglass. Do any of you think Speedglass is overkill for what seems to be a substantial increase in price. Have any of you upgraded from a mid range helmet to a top of the range helmet and why.I've got arc, 330 amp mig and basic scratch start tig (my little 170 amp DC inverter arc welder).Cheers,Keith.
Reply:Here are some threads you should read throughhttp://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...&highlight=w60http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...&highlight=w60http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...+digital+elitehttp://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...iller+titaniumI just got my W60 Truesight. the only helmet I wanted to try and could not fine locally was the ESAB New Tech 6-13xl http://esabna.com/us/en/products_cat...Product_ID=218Most important is you get a quality hood that has guranteed and certified protection levels for your eye protection.  Never trust a Chicom labeled hood to do the same...Last edited by soutthpaw; 11-18-2012 at 05:59 PM.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:I use an esab origo tech helmet and i'm very happy with it at the momenthttp://esabna.com/us/en/products_cat...Product_ID=220Not the yellow one, I'm a welder not a canary
Reply:Thanks lads, it really is a hard choice.I'm sure my cheapie AD helmet has poor reaction times because I often feel like I've had arc flash when I strike the arc.Quite like the idea of side windows because I get sick of flipping my hood up and often walk around the workshop with the hood still down.
Reply:The reaction time of the AD shouldn't let you get arc flash. The lens is what stops the uv rays, not the shade. Might see a bright flash, just like if you forget to turn the helmet on but it shouldn't burn your eyes.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Here is a helpful chart we have developed to help sort through the different welding helmets and prices.  Welding Helmet ComparisonSpeedglas and Miller are the only helmets to have the "new" generation head gear.  Miller offers a 3 year warranty while most other manufacturers are still at a two year warranty.Just a couple things to [email protected]
Reply:Thanks SquirmyPug & JRupp,actually it is more like a bright flash, doesn't burn my eyes but it can make me blink like someone shined a bright light in my eyes.Checked out the chart Jrupp, I was quite surprised to see Speedglas is double the reaction time of many of the others. Maybe the better quality optics doesn't allow the fastest reaction time.I'm leaning towards the Speedglas 9100xx so far. Like the idea of the big viewing area and the side windows. Here in Australia the price is about $750 so I'll have to save up for this one. Wow I could have 10 of my cheapie AD helmets for that price, ha ha.
Reply:I use the Lincoln Viking 3350 in the Motorhead style. I had an old Huntsman I bought in 1997. It was nice. I really liked it. Then I got this Lincoln and realized how much I was missing. Just in viewing quality. It was like going from regular to HDTV. It is just so nice to use. One thing to say to people who say that the AutoDarks are a waste of money.....I never got flashed with an autodark. I go flashed with a fixed because I had the hood up trying to see what I was doing. It is easy to accidentally strike an arc with stick. If my autodark is on I have no reason to flip it up and if I accidentally strike an arc, I automatically get protected.Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Couldn't agree more, I think auto darkening helmets are great. I'm not exactly a professional welder but I've been in enough situations where I wouldn't like to be trying to flick the helmet, like lying on my side and looking up at where I'll be welding, while holding on to something to try and keep me steady. By comparison the AD helmets make it so easy.To add to that I've just started using 6011 rods (I like them) and they can stick a bit when restriking at the lower end of their amp range. I think I'd go nuts trying to restrike them without an AD helmet.I too got a lot of flashes with the old non AD helmet when I'd lost my stick position and lifted the hood to see where I was then the tip of the electrode touched the work. I think I will quite admire a welder that can effortlessly use a basic helmet.
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpaw....Most important is you get a quality hood that has guranteed and certified protection levels for your eye protection.  Never trust a Chicom labeled hood to do the same...
Reply:Hi Dubl_t,I think you are right about personal preference. I have noticed some people worshipping a certain helmet and others using it for an ash tray. It'll be interesting to see if the dealers can give me a demo on different helmets or if all I can get is a "dry" try on my head.
Reply:G'Day Mancavedweller,I resisted the urge to go autodark for ages - like twenty years, but when I did (and it was a cheapo chinese piece of junk), I was hooked, there are some pretty good cheap helmets and some pretty crappy expensive ones. I run two currently, a speedglas 9100 and a WIA blue (rebadged miller) as a backup, my lift front hiderok hangs around as a 'spare' and collects redbacks. a couple of points - a lot of really cheap helmets are fixed shade, fixed delay and fixed sensitivity .... variable shade is useful for differing conditions and current levels, variable delay and sensitivity are useful when you go from running stick outside in the sun to some low current tig in a dark shop.replaceable batteries are not available in most of the real cheapies, but are a must for anybody who expects a decent life from their investment.I love my Speedglas, would buy another in an instant - it looks kinda crappy now it's been 'lived in', still does the job as well as the day I purchased it, the 'blue' is generally only used for tig, so it looks clean and still has the original clear on it's face, just doesn't feel as nice on my head.One other thing to be aware of is that you want a helmet for which spares are readily available to you - don't go and purchase something where you have to order clears or a new harness from overseas. See what your local supplier has on the shelf in the way of spares and consumables and ask questions.Cheers,Justin45+ years of accumulated fabrication junk - both physical and mental.....  occasionally some of it is vaguely useful.
Reply:Thanks for that Justin.Point about the spares noted. I've come across enough issues with crappy customer service without the added headaches of non available parts. I'll remember that one.Keith.
Reply:Eyes are nothing to fool around with. If you have 60$ eyes, buy a 60$ helmet. Miller digital elite right here.