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Been mig welding for years, but have never touched a arc or tig in my life.I have A LOT of stainless tubing to weld, and I have had this nice lincoln idealarc in the corner of my garage for a while, but have never even attempted to use it.I'm just curious if someone might be able to enlighten me on what has to be done to set this up to tig weld thin stainless and produce a quality weld?I have a tig torch, argon tank, and regulator that came with the welder, but not sure whats all needed, and the correct way to set it up.I saw there was a lincoln tig module that can be purchased that runs around $1500. What does that do?http://www.lincolnelectric.com/Catal...et.aspx?p=2000any help is appreciated!! Attached ImagesLast edited by darkostoj; 11-21-2012 at 10:36 PM.
Reply:All you need is a "power adapter" for what ever size torch you have ...I'm guessing you have a 17v (valve) series torch...mount the adapter to the power out terminal...connect argon hose/ regulator, open cylinder .. switch machine to DC- ,power up machine and start Tig'n...(just make sure you open argon valve on the torch before lighting up).....You don't need that H/F box unless you want to do aluminum, have a foot pedal or have H/F start....Last edited by DemonSpeeder; 11-21-2012 at 10:42 PM.Lincoln pro mig 180Lincoln Square Wave Tig 300/wp 20/home built water cooler Victor, Purox, Harris, O/A welding/cutting setupsVintage Craftsman drill pressVintage Craftsman/Atlas 12"x 36'' lathe7''x 12'' w/c band saw Everlast 140 st
Reply:Here's one of a short series of videos about the setup
Reply:Go to weldingtipsandtricks.com and look under tig. There's a video on "old school tig welding" that will show you.That module is a high frequency unit. It creates a high voltage arc that will jump across the gap between the workpiece and the tungsten to start the arc without touching them together. It's not worth it.Use the scratch start method on the SS. I must say, TIG welding takes alot of practice and requires the tubing to be purged with Ar during welding for a good weld. Also tubing is tough because you have to continually change your angle as you go along. You may wanna consider Migging it all.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255Go to weldingtipsandtricks.com and look under tig. There's a video on "old school tig welding" that will show you.That module is a high frequency unit. It creates a high voltage arc that will jump across the gap between the workpiece and the tungsten to start the arc without touching them together. It's not worth it.Use the scratch start method on the SS. I must say, TIG welding takes alot of practice and requires the tubing to be purged with Ar during welding for a good weld. Also tubing is tough because you have to continually change your angle as you go along. You may wanna consider Migging it all.
Reply:I use that same machine for tig welding steel and stainless steel frequently.The Idealarc 250 is a very good scratch start dc tig welder. You need a tig torch with a gas valve and an adapter to hook the torch to a lead that plugs into the welder. DC- (straight) polarity for scratch start tig welding of ferrous metals. This is how most stainless steel pipe is welded in the industrial world.The tig module you speak of will give you high frequency start and and gas control. It does not give you the ability to use a foot peddle for remote amperage control.Dont bother with the tig module. If you want to tig weld aluminum, you'd be better off using that money and the money you paid for the welder and picking up a true high frequency ac/dc welder with remote amp control. You dont need remote amp control if your not tig welding aluminum.I do a lot of thing gauge steel dc tig welding with my 250 idealarc. It does a very good job using scratch start. I have a CK flexlock tig torch with a gas valve.Scratch start dc tig teaches you to set the current on the machine, and tig weld. This will quickly teach you to understand how much heat you need to put into the job, then how to set the machine current to get what your looking for. It's a great economical way to learn to tig weld steel and stainless steel.Last edited by snoeproe; 11-22-2012 at 09:50 PM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by darkostojso basically all it does is give you a nicer starting and finishing of the arc? Does it give amperage adjustment? I think the $1500 ticket for something like that may not be worth it!so it is possible to lay some nice welds on stainless 16ga tubing with this style of strike to arc tig welding?I guess the other options are mig or shelling out the $$ for a nice tig right?
Reply:Setting up tig welding is Easy:1) Bottle of Argon is required for a shielding gas2) Argon Regulator 3) Argon Hose 4)You will need an adapter: GOOGLE "Power Cable Adapter 105Z57 for TIG Welding Torches WP Series" and click "Images" to see what I mean.5) You will need a Tig Torch and Tig torch argon hose that fits your tig torch6) negative cable7) Positive cableThis is how it all works:Your "Argon Regulator" is screwed into the Head of the Argon Bottle. You have 1 argon hose that goes from your "Argon Regulator" that now screws into 1 side of the "Power cable adapter" The power cable adapter has that "hole" in the middle - that bolts on to the negative terminal of your Welding Machine. (Or, if you want to be fancy, you use a set of washers, a welding lug, a foot long welding cable, a male end, and have the male end twist into any negative cable) Now, once the Power Adapter is bolted on to the negative terminal of the machine, the next thing that needs to screw into the head of the adapter will be that Argon Hose cable that carries Argon to your Tig Torch. Your tig torch is always negative (DC), and your work piece is always positive. (DC)Now, It does not matter if you have the most advanced tig welding machine brought over from Germany, or if you have a 1947 Lincoln sa200 that adjusts Amperage via Pulling/Pushing this little knob that adjusts the rpms of the machine to incrase amperage - NO MATTER WHAT MACHINE YOU HAVE, you can tig weld off of it. For Stainless Steel, just get a dual head regulator - I have a dual head, and it is the very best investment. One head supplies Argon to my Torch, the other end I use an old Oxy/Acet hose that I cut up and put a female end on so that I can screw into the head of the regulator.Now, I got a tip for stainless Steel here - You want to disperse that Argon in all directions - On the very tip of the hose that is located inside the pipe I am purging, I have this heavy mass of "Wire Wool" that I just bunch up and tape to my hose - If the Argon wants to escape through the hose, it now has to make its way through all the wire wool I have on the end, and that Wire Wool now shoots off Argon in all directions from top sections to bottom sections of the pipe. (Also known as a diffuser) You could even take a gas lense if you're desperate and put it on the end of the hose, but wire wool is so much better.46 sae30047 sa200 w/Wisconsin VF451 shorthood56 shorthood56 shorthood68 redface69 redface07 ranger 305G13 sae300Inconel/Hastelloy SS Duplex Chrome/Carbon Tig F3Downhand STT/RMD F3F4 B Pressure
Reply:I also wanted to include that you can tig weld off any old sa200 - Doesn't matter if the machine is from the 1940's, 50's, 60's - My 56' Shorthood will out tig weld on its absolute worst day ANY Lincoln Vantage 400 on that Garbage machines very best day, and it will beat any shop machine, or any other machine you put it against. Point being, You can virtually tig weld off any machine - You could probably tig weld using car batteries.. (I should make a video of that :P) Secondly, Foot pedal is a luxary - You do not need a foot pedal . You just need to learn how to "taper" off of the weld, and it is so incredibly simple, when you want to end your weld, you just increase your speed gradually and you will notice the puddle following you and strinking, and shrinking and shrinking, until suddenly the puddle is so tiny, it solidifies, and you can pull off. Some guys even tilt the torch and suddenly in 1 inch of barely even moving, they can break the arc. Remember - A good "tapering" off of the arc - when done properly, you will not hear any pops or snaps or anything - the machine will be extremely quiet. but however, in mid root, before you do any tie-ins, you are fully allowed to snap out the arc - but remember that you must also heat that area because it will leave a tiny little pin hole. Heat the area up again to start welding, and the pinhole disappears. (Stainless) For inconel, you have to grind the start and stops, but thats all together different.46 sae30047 sa200 w/Wisconsin VF451 shorthood56 shorthood56 shorthood68 redface69 redface07 ranger 305G13 sae300Inconel/Hastelloy SS Duplex Chrome/Carbon Tig F3Downhand STT/RMD F3F4 B Pressure |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:40:29