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Hello all.I've been hacking away at small welding (hobby) jobs since I took a class at a a local community college in Phx.We have since moved and need a gate for our place, and have decided on a sliding gate. However, the $3K+ for a gate kind of shook us up, so decided to try to build my own.I've attached (I think) a rough draft of the design, and would like some opinions on some of the joints. For instance, the 8' cantilever support section - would the X pieces connect flat on the top horizontal supports, flat on the vertical supports, or right in the middle of the 90' joints? Which would provide the most strength? (see lower right corner of attached design showing what I mean).Also - I'm no graphic designer here, and the while the lines in the drawing are all the same thickness, the steel is not.The outer square tube is 2" x1/8", along with the vertical cantilever supports. The inside of the 16' is 1"x1/16" square tube.Any suggestions for strength on the inside 1" tube design? Should I alternate which piece is solid from the top to bottom horizontal? Any thoughts you may have on this would be welcome and appreciated.As for other parts of the gate, I have gotten the V-groove pulleys - we cannot use a wheel because of debris and snow. I am also using 3/16" steel for the two upright posts. Attached Images
Reply:The design and the plan seem workable to me. Looks fine. I would weld the diagonals to the verticals. Be consistant.In your drawing you have diagonals attached every different way. Looks messy.Be consistant.Oh ...One more thing, The distance between verticals on that interior structure is 4 feet for 1 inch tube 1/16 thickness.You may need to make those horizontals shorter- 3 feet apart. Four feet seems like if someone put their foot up on one of those 1 inch square tubes that it could get bent.Do a little test. Cut a 4 foot section and put it between two bricks and put some weight on it with your foot. it will give you some idea of its strength.When welded all together it will be stronger of coarse. You will have to decide.Make sure the posts are in solid soil.Last edited by Donald Branscom; 03-09-2011 at 05:55 PM.Reason: photoAWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:I drew your gate to SCALE in Ilustrator program.I made it 48 inches high instead of 44 inches high but it will look very close to this.This is NOT a CAD program but it is much closer to scale drawing.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:Sorry about the extra large drawing.I could not delete it as the window tools were not visable.Here it is at a better size.THIS IS TO SCALE.Last edited by Donald Branscom; 03-09-2011 at 06:38 PM.Reason: photoAWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:I am very sorry for that double post with the drawing that is too large.Here it is one more time. 24 feet total.DRAWN TO SCALEYou might want to go with thicker 1 inch tubing on that big 'X".Last edited by Donald Branscom; 03-09-2011 at 06:45 PM.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:Are you going with a motorized gate?
Reply:Donald,Thanks very much for redrawing it, mine was just a quickie with MS Paint. The big X in the 8' section would be the same 2" material that the outer pieces are, for strength.The diamonds in the 16' section are the 1", and I see your point about them being 4' long and possibly weak. However, the X's there for the middle that shape the diamonds - I was planning on having (just as example) the 4' pieces that go from top to bottom, left to right, 1 piece 4' long. The opposite pieces, going from bottom to top, left to right, would be 2' long, cut and welded to the 4' piece that was going from top to bottom, left to right.I feel like I'm saying this poorly, so I've attached an portion of the picture with an explanation.If I totally missed the point, please feel free to slap me around. Sean - yes, eventually this will be a motorized gate. Initially, no. Attached Images
Reply:Makes sense to me.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:40:25