Project: Model A

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I rarely post on this website, but figured I would post a few pics of what I have been playing with. It is a 1928 Model A Sedan.I am not sure if the pics will show up in any particular order, but basically I have chopped the top. Model A's are not difficult to chop at all, but you still must get the A,B, and C pillars to line up inside. That requires some slicing vertically and expanding the upper portion and pie cutting the lower portion and making them blend together to look as though there has never been a chop.I still have to channel the body and make some modifications to the Pete and Jakes frame/suspension.The first pic should be one before the additinal 2" chop but WITH the new cowel quarter panels.Second pic is of the rear prior to additional chop. It is laid out with blue tape. I wanted to keep the rear window the same height while still dropping the top 2 additional inches. You can see the marker line where I will remove the section in order to allow the entire window to drop down.Third pic is of the reinforcements needed to keep everything in line so it does not become out of whack when you cut it apart. Allows for easy realignment. This must be done on the top half as well as the bottom half.4th pic is of the chop as it is being lifter away.5th pic is side view MINUS the topMore pics to come in second posting.Grant Attached Imageshttp://jackalopefab.com/MM210Synchrowave 200DXMiller XMT350 w/60series feederMiller Bobcat 250 with SGA 100 and spoolgunHTP PlasmaFull Machine shop with everything
Reply:I should mentionthat when I got ahold of this car, there had been a chop already and the suspension/frame was already there. I am having to redo most everything as it was done poorly.First pic here is of the rear after chop.Second, third, and fourth are basically the same but of the side. Everything is just tacked in place. These pics are a couple weeks old and I have made more progress and the AB&C pillars are lined up nicely as mentioned above. I will try to get more pics as I think about it!Grant Attached Imageshttp://jackalopefab.com/MM210Synchrowave 200DXMiller XMT350 w/60series feederMiller Bobcat 250 with SGA 100 and spoolgunHTP PlasmaFull Machine shop with everything
Reply:Forgot to add, once the body is buttoned up, the channeling of the body will be roughly 4-5" and the frame will get "Z'd" 4" giving the body a total 8-9" additional drop.The suspension is all Pete and Jakes with 4 link front and triangulated 4link rear. Coilovers and a disc braked Dana 60 rear.I sold my jeep in order to fund this project and it is coming along quite nicely.The chop mentioned above was laid out, cut, and tacked back together in less than 4hrs. Not bad for working by myself. I did have a gantry that made for easy removal!http://jackalopefab.com/MM210Synchrowave 200DXMiller XMT350 w/60series feederMiller Bobcat 250 with SGA 100 and spoolgunHTP PlasmaFull Machine shop with everything
Reply:Suuuhhhhwweeeet!I'd have that thing so low you could step over it and a dropped straight axle buggy sprung front with hairpins and with the axle so far forward it'd look like a dragster, and maybe a 409/450hp with a m22 and a quick change rear. Of course you'll build it you're way and so far I'm digging that a bunch.Keep us posted on this one, thanks.Brian LeonardAppalachian Ironworks L.L.C.434 Long Branch Rd, Marshall, NC 28753828 649 9966828 702 [email protected]
Reply:The last two pics are some I still had on my phone. Not good resolution but you get the idea. Attached Imageshttp://jackalopefab.com/MM210Synchrowave 200DXMiller XMT350 w/60series feederMiller Bobcat 250 with SGA 100 and spoolgunHTP PlasmaFull Machine shop with everything
Reply:Believe me, if I were building and buying it from scratch, it WOULD have the hairpin front.!The guy that was working on this had a Hi-boy planned from what it appeared. With that said, I will retain the 4 link front. When I "Z" the front, it will get a 4" extension as to allow more wheelbase AND avoid any interference with the firewall.I will say I am really struggling with the rear suspension design and what I WANT to do. I want to kick it up on 4" just in front of the triangulated 4 link set up. That would put the frame right near my back when sitting in the car. Most of the time these frames are kicked up 14-17" which allows for the 4 link to be mounted on the b ackside of the kicked up portion. I don't have that option with THIS particular set up.I am pretty sure it would work out just fine, but the frustrating part is just that there are suspensions that take MY choice and make it MUCH easier rather than modifying another design.Granthttp://jackalopefab.com/MM210Synchrowave 200DXMiller XMT350 w/60series feederMiller Bobcat 250 with SGA 100 and spoolgunHTP PlasmaFull Machine shop with everything