Sawed-off electrodes?

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Do any of you stick welders shorten electrodes to increase fine control of their arc length and weave? I've found a sawed off 6011 electrode is like towing in low gear and is preventing both burn through and overwelding
Reply:the only reason i do it sometimes is in our coal fired boiler doing high pressure repairs, as their isnt room in a majority of the areas to manipulate a full 14" rod
Reply:The properties of a stick welding electrode change as it is consumed.The general consensus is you get used to it.It can be a little easier to start the arc on a shorter electrode, but with practice its not too difficult on a longer one.  Some people use a gloved finger or two to guide the electrode from the center, until it is partially consumed, for finer control.Also, as a long electrode is consumed, it gets hotter.  I've had issues with 6011 getting too hot, and often dunk a half used 6011 rod in water.
Reply:So, use a shorter electrode for control and working room. However, shortened (cellulosic) electrodes can quickly overheat which may be helped by presoaking in water . I noticed the shortened 6011 coating rapidly scorches and spalls away, making a smooth restart near impossible, so it's proving to be a waste doing this with dry electrodes. A short 6011 does penetrate extra-strong with slower travel, a 6010 would be like a plasma cutter!
Reply:Originally Posted by StickLandingHowever, shortened (cellulosic) electrodes can quickly overheat which may be helped by presoaking in water .
Reply:hi, i usually do not saw them just grab them lower on the rod and work coating off then bend over, works good. it really makes a difference on lo hi. At one time they did sell a shorter rod, never looked into it lately.
Reply:Wow...............07 Fowler 200D65 RedFace04 Miller TB 302, 22hpMiller 12RCMiller HF 251-1Lincoln SP135HyperTherm PM 380and a few others... Originally Posted by RhynoBut, if I "all of a sudden disappear....  ...." hopefully I didn't suffer too much....
Reply:Zees ees very strainge (I'm in Frainch mode this morning)I don't believe I've ever run any kind of rod that didn't run cooler as it burned down.The rod itself gets hotter than a pawn shop pistol, but the puddle becomes increasingly cooler as the rod burns down.Increased heat buildup as the rod burns causes increased resistance, therefore the puddle runs cooler.Running hot to begin with keeps the puddle hot as you burn down the rod.  IE higher amps.  Faster travel at beginning of rod, then "normal" travel as the rod heats up.What you may be noticing is the increased heat in the puddle after a "cold" start.  The puddle takes time to warm up as well as the steel.  I've found that a good way to get rid of porosity on a cold start is to hold the travel at the beginning of the pass, then move along normally after you're satisfied that the puddle is cookin'."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/