welding table top....decisions, decisions

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I've looked at a bunch of the table build threads here and got some great ideas.....among them the consensus that thicker is generally better. I'm also reasonably certain of some design parameters: box tube frame, four legs tied together in an "H" pattern, a clean design to allow for the addition of extras down the line, and a solid / flat top.I rang up the local steel yard....helpful guy. Here's the prices I was quoted: 1/2" plate 4' x 8' for $349.00. It is otherwise sold in 4' x 4' and 4' x 2' sizes. 1" plate is sold at $25.38 a square foot - any size you want.Some info to help you guys: I'm a hobbyist. I sometimes engage in mild fabrication of this and that: I've built tool stands; tacked together yard decor, etc. No heavy machinery. No farm implements. No vehicle/chassis components. No engines or trannys to be placed on the table.In the future, I might do something like an average sized grill, I want to build a new router table, etc. I can also see myself going up a notch as my skills increase. I can see a medium sized metal brake and a plasma cutter and the larger projects those tools would come with.Decisons......my two-car shop/garage holds no cars . I could manage a 4 x 6 table in there.....on wheels......I'd be set. Should I go for the 1/2" 4 x 8 @ $350 (as a bonus, I've got the perfect use for the 4 x 2 scrap); or will I regret not going for something like a 1" 4 x 5 slab?I didn't even think to ask about 3/4"......3/4" 4 x 6 might be the perfect compromise. Any input based on your builds and what you learned would be appreciated.
Reply:I don't think you'll need a 1" piece. I build and occasionally work on farm equipment, and I plan on going with 1/2"[Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:If you live near houston i will sell you my 3.5' x 5' x 1.25" plate for $200. probably no one will agree with me but I think giant thick plate tables suck. I would rather have thick 6"+/- strips laid out with big gaps so you can put clamps anywhere... like thisBut when I build my next table it will be like the ones at my previous employer. they were just frames no tops. It was 1.25 square tubes in a 1' x 1' grid. it was awesome if i was doing small stuff i would just throw a small sheet of aluminum on top... but i know thats not for everyone. Also many things i built were just supported by pipe jacks.www.performancealuminumfabrication.com
Reply:Are there any heavy equipment type manufactorers in your area?    You would be suprised what they throw away.   Theres a company in my area that builds road pavers and I pulled a 3 x 5 welding table out of the dumpster with there permission.   The dumpster next to the R & D building is ussually the best as they are making mistakes often.    So if ya know somebody at a place like this it might not hurt to check.  It saves money for more projects.   Just a thought.
Reply:I went with a 4 x 4 x 1/2" top with a square tube frame. The top needs to be flat for decent results. My table top came from the steel yard warped (out 1/4" across the 4' length). I had a different steel supplier roll the top flat and it is MUCH better now. Also, I would not go any smaller than 4x4 if you have the room.
Reply:You'll be happy with half inch.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:1/2" is fine! I have sprayed all day long on a 4x6x1/2" table and had no warping issues at all.
Reply:Thanks guys. BTW, $350 seems like a pretty good price for a 4 x 8 piece of 1/2" in Tampa.....and, I'll have a piece of 2 x 4 to make a new top for my go-to bench.travisc454, That idea definitely has merit. Truthfully, if I had a bigger shop and could totally dedicate a side to metal, I would consider that route. This table will serve several purposes, including layout for wood and metal projects, assembly, saw extension, welding.......roll out table for yard sales....you name it Last edited by jtbinvalrico; 05-02-2011 at 09:24 PM.Reason: add info
Reply:Here is a picture of the other "table" I mentioned. I want to build one that has a top and one like this that rolls and fits under. A twofer .  sorry for the ugly pic.www.performancealuminumfabrication.com
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenYou'll be happy with half inch.
Reply:go as thick as you can afford!
Reply:From what you described, IMHO 1/2" would be good. If you can cut it into 9" wide strips with a saw, it's really nice for clamping. Torch cut will warp the strips, but you may be able lay them on your frame and pull them down flat in the middle. You'd probably fine with a 4x4 or 3x5 table. Open floor space is good to have too.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Just got back from the steel supply place. I went seeking info on the 1/2" plate to make the table top out of. Out of curiosity, I asked about 3/4".....they can do 3 x 5 x 3/4" for $285.Then I asked about making holes for clamping.....$2.00 per hole with their mag drill.I'm feeling more and more like a 4 x 6 foot table is just going to be too big in my shop....so as I drift toward a 3 x 5 table top, the 1/2"  would cost me about $280 (you have to buy the 4 x 6 piece and they cut it down; I guess they don't do 1/2" by the sq ft).....the 3/4" will only cost 5 bucks more. It becomes a no-brainer.Second.....I'd really like to have them go ahead and drill a pattern of holes for clamping. I'm about half-way through reading every post ever done on this board with "welding table" in the title....I'm trying to avoid asking questions I've seen answered already. Another consensus I found was that cutting holes in the plate with head can cause warping. Seems to me that a mag drill might avoid that? Any recommendations on hole diameter, pattern and spacing would be appreciated.
Reply:I think you've got a good plan. Good price for the 3/4" and it will take a beating. 3 x5 is a great size. $2 a hole, mag drilled is a good deal. No warping is a good thing! Me, I'd go 3/4" holes with maybe a 6-8" spread. Go with a row, 3" in from the 5' side, then another at 13" and another at 23" and a back row at 33"(= 3" in from back edge). This gives you 10" between rows. I think 3" in from the edge staying solid, is good in case you just want to clamp at the edge of the table with vise grips or what have you. Or go 12" x 12" hole spread to cut the cost.Just my nickles worth200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Get the holes and tap them for bolts to use to hold clamps dowm
Reply:Check the scrap yards first.Two turn tables and a microphone.
Reply:Another idea, one that saved me a lot of money..check out local craigslist for steel workbench or welders table.  I found a mickey mouse welding table for $75.  Guy had 3/4" plate with four pieces of heavy C channel welded to the bottom of the plate.  Thing was really ugly, really heavy. I used it to build up a new 1.5" square tube frame on wheels to fit the top. When I was done with the new frame, I cut off the top from the craigslist table and used it for a top on my now new table.  I've still got to clean up the edges of the top (previous owner cut the plate to size with gas torch, but he did it sorta sloppy...)   I will finish that later.. good luck!zip
Reply:I found a piece of 3/4" plate roughly 4' x 4' in a local scrap yard for less than $100. Two edges were square and two were flame cut. I squared up the rough edges with a 7 1/4" +Heleta metal cutting blade in a circular saw against a straight edge guide. You have to go slow and let the blade do the work but it makes a really nice edge. leave a 6" overhang past the frame for clamping. I bolted my top onto the frame from the bottom to avoid warping.Lay out the pattern for your holes and drill 27/32" so you can tap for 1/2"-13. I would probably do an 8" grid.Cut an MGB and widened 11" C4 Corvette suspension and LT1 Chevrolet power & 6 spd. Pictures here:Part 1http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,7581Part 2http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,22422
Reply:Originally Posted by travisc454Here is a picture of the other "table" I mentioned. I want to build one that has a top and one like this that rolls and fits under. A twofer .  sorry for the ugly pic.
Reply:Originally Posted by jtbinvalricoSecond.....I'd really like to have them go ahead and drill a pattern of holes for clamping. I'm about half-way through reading every post ever done on this board with "welding table" in the title....I'm trying to avoid asking questions I've seen answered already. Another consensus I found was that cutting holes in the plate with head can cause warping. Seems to me that a mag drill might avoid that? Any recommendations on hole diameter, pattern and spacing would be appreciated.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterWhere is your arm protection?I use SPF 70 in the summer.....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by akpolarisGet the holes and tap them for bolts to use to hold clamps dowm
Reply:At this point I have a 3.5' x 5' slab of 3/4" leaning against a wall in the garage.....three edges are really nice, one edge is a little rough from the o/a cut the yard did. It's got some surface rust on it. My plan is to remove the rust from what will be the bottom side, then finish the top side after it's mounted to the frame.I'm thinking a few flap discs on the angle grinder will knock down the rust. Then I can smooth the rough-cut edge once it's mounted.Not too sure just yet about putting holes in the top....threaded, thru, slots, etc. I think I'll end up just using it for a while and seeing what might work along the way.Gonna be a few weeks before I can get to building the frame. Thanks for the tips so far.Last edited by jtbinvalrico; 05-09-2011 at 08:06 PM.Reason: add info
Reply:Congrats!200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Get a paint removing disk to remove that rust. They work really fast. Like the one shown here: http://www.osh.com/_static/webUpload..._6557243_3.jpgIan TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools.....ugh.....Got some time this week to work on the table top....not good   I armed myself with a heavy rust disc on my angle grinder and went at it.Nothing.Flap discs, sanders of all types and grits. Even a belt sander with 36gr....Nothing.I felt like I was flinging myself against the side of an uncaring barge."Not a problem," I thought. I am simply going to have this thing surface ground or maybe a bit of Blanchard grinding......Not happening in Tampa. I called every metal shop and machine shop in the area. The one outfit that could, couldn't do a plate that size. The rest of them limited their work to defense contracting, etc. The one that could, several counties away....wanted $300 for a single pass with their machine, with a risk of "dishing" the plate. I didn't bother to ask what a second pass would cost.I then resolved myself to attack this piece of plate anew and win. Lots of Naval Jelly.....good stuff. Does what it says it will do....but my test bits showed the best I was going to get was black stuff in pits that I could grind out with a wire wheel. Lots of black stuff, lots of pits. Yeah, yeah, I know....it's a welding table that's going to get beat up. But I take care of my stuff and this surface was, at best, going to look like something that barely survived re-entry into Earth's atmosphere and crashed on my lawn. Seriously, you could actually lose hardware on that mottled surface. Truth be told, I want it to be me who beats up my table....I don't want it pre-thrashed Um....yes. I looked at the plate at the yard. The guy said anything larger than 1/2" is kept outside. The metal man agreed that the thicker size was a way to avoid issues with warping.....plus the price was the same as the 1/2"....Being a metal noob, I looked at it and said "That'll flap disc right off." They agreed and off I went.Fast forward to today. I managed to winch the 3/4" back onto the truck to go do an exchange tomorrow.....of course I'll be paying something of a restocking fee and a cut feet on the 1/2" I'm getting....I going to call that "stupid tax." So I am revising my plans; you get the whole 4 x 8 x 1/2" sheet, so I'm gonna make myself feel better about it all by scaling up to a 4 x 6 table and a fresh 2 x 4 top for my go-to bench.Nonetheless, I've learned quite a bit, and talked to a few old pros on the phone today who were genuinely interested in talking to a new guy getting into welding. I picked up some great ideas from them......so really, what could possibly go wrong next