Recommend me a flexhead air cooled torch.

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Currently have a weldcraft 17v, and 17fv.I literally burning them up and they are slowing me down due to the temperatures they are reaching.  So hot I can't hold onto it with my stick gloves. Running minimum 150 ampsWelding: pipe 6" schedule 40 and 2" schedule???.Carbon SteelNot opposed to going to a different company.So, for around $200/ What's the cat's meow..Or is there a way to make my current setup not so hot....Thanks.Last edited by jsm11; 05-21-2010 at 04:03 PM.
Reply:I think the 17 is rated for 150 amps max, so it's no surprise they are overheating.The 26 size aircooled is rated 200 amps, you might try that size.From what others here have stated, for day in day out welding at that amperage a water cooled setup is best.
Reply:Air-cooled (really, "gas cooled") torches are gonna get hot. I assume liquid cooling isn't practical for your use. I suggest buying plenty of torch heads and treating them as disposable.One way could be to have a double rig setup. Split the argon using a Y-fitting, clip your stinger to the power block on the one you want to use while the other cools. You could trickle argon through the one not in use to cool it down (well, if you aren't buying the gas or the speed is worth it).A Y setup using 1/4" turn ball valves would be much faster to switch than a traditional brass Y with screw valves. Argon after the regulator steps it down is low pressure so I'd use common valves and go through the Western Enterprises fitting catalog for the rest.Last edited by farmall; 05-21-2010 at 04:39 PM.
Reply:Appreciate the advise.Is there any appreciable difference between the knockoffs and the Weldcraft brand? Or is it like everything else, where you get what you pay for?Yes, probably going to go with the WP 26fv kit.Sadly water cooled is not an option where I'm welding. It's scratch start only...lolz.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmallAir-cooled (really, "gas cooled") torches are gonna get hot. I assume liquid cooling isn't practical for your use. I suggest buying plenty of torch heads and treating them as disposable.One way would be to have a double rig setup. Split the argon using a Y-fitting, clip your stinger to the power block on the one you want to use while the other cools. You could trickle argon through the one not in use to cool it down (well, if you aren't buying the gas or the speed is worth it).A Y setup using 1/4" turn ball valves would be much faster to switch than a traditional brass Y with screw valves.
Reply:150 amps min?  No wonder you're melting torch heads.  Why are you running so hot?  6" sch 40?  Seems to me that you can fill and cap that joint @ 100-120 amps, no problem.  Root would be put in at even lower amperage.  Am I missing something here? Originally Posted by jsm11Currently have a weldcraft 17v, and 17fv.I literally burning them up and they are slowing me down due to the temperatures they are reaching.  So hot I can't hold onto it with my stick gloves. Running minimum 150 ampsWelding: pipe 6" schedule 40 and 2" schedule???.Carbon SteelNot opposed to going to a different company.So, for around $200/ What's the cat's meow..Or is there a way to make my current setup not so hot....Thanks.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmallAir-cooled (really, "gas cooled") torches are gonna get hot. I assume liquid cooling isn't practical for your use. I suggest buying plenty of torch heads and treating them as disposable.One way could be to have a double rig setup. Split the argon using a Y-fitting, clip your stinger to the power block on the one you want to use while the other cools. You could trickle argon through the one not in use to cool it down (well, if you aren't buying the gas or the speed is worth it).A Y setup using 1/4" turn ball valves would be much faster to switch than a traditional brass Y with screw valves. Argon after the regulator steps it down is low pressure so I'd use common valves and go through the Western Enterprises fitting catalog for the rest.
Reply:Is there any appreciable difference between the knockoffs and the Weldcraft brand?
Reply:Though I'm not familiar with Radnor, and they may be a fine brand, we maintain there is a difference:http://joewelder.com/2008/07/21/tig-...he-difference/(example, the kind of copper that is used, the quality of the labor, etc)-----------------------Carmen Electrodewww.CarmenElectrode.comand the boss blogs at  www.JoeWelder.comall powered by  www.Arc-Zone.com