Grinding steel to get it smooth for plating?

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Took a stab at zink plating since the min. was $25.I was amazed they get the mill scale, rust, oil, and spray on light paint off. They said they have problems with welding powder splater. Cuz the powder burns in. So I'm thinking this is way better than grinding mill scale. Wiping down with degreaser. All the painting mess. Etc. And the paint scratches real easy.Plus the zink looks really cool and is super tough. Stronger than powder coat.The question I have is! The zink in less than a 1/1000 thick. And shows ever single scratch from grinding.Whats the best way to get the surface smooth as a new babies bottom?The plating company said sand blasting or bead blasting is how companies send over parts for plating. But I don't have the $$$ for that type of setup. Not unless there is solution under $100. And I'm not sure that will fix grinding marks.I have not tried flap disk yet. Dont know what grit to get. Etc. They seam pricey..Oops I ment to post this in the questions forum. Attached ImagesLast edited by FunnyDream; 08-21-2011 at 03:41 PM.Reason: I ment to post this in the question forums.ThermalArc 161STL TIG/Stick (160amp)Lincoln weld-pak 100 (fluxcore)4X6 Enco bandsaw10" skillsaw with metal blade for 45degrees (works)4" grinderWeld for fun. Very rare I do it for Money.
Reply:A flap disk in your 4.5" angle grinder will shine it up nicely.I offer three choices: Good, Fast, & Cheap. You may pick two.Hobart AC/DC StikMate LXHarbor Freight AD HoodHarbor Freight Industrial Chop SawDeVilbis 20 Gallon, 5 HP Compressor
Reply:If you are just looking for a reflective, smooth surface, and some waviness in the smoothed surface is OK, I second the 4.5" angle grinder flap disc recommendation.  Something in the range of 80 grit-120 grit, with a light touch (especially if you've already used/worn down the disc a little bit and gotten it "broken in") can leave a very smooth/reflective surface.If you want a flat *and* smooth surface, a belt sander would be ideal.That is pretty neat about the zinc plating service.  I am guessing it was electroplated, because if it were "hot dipped" (into a molten zinc bath) it would probably leave a much thicker layer.Last edited by jakeru; 08-21-2011 at 06:35 PM.
Reply:If a flap disk is pricey, and you're bothered by grinding marks on your zinc coat then you need to look at your priorities again.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Originally Posted by FunnyDreamI have not tried flap disk yet. Dont know what grit to get. Etc. They seam pricey.
Reply:^^^ What he said!  You can actually get them pretty cheap on ebay, I bought a 20 pack online the other day ended up paying about $1.80/ piece.  If you buy them at the hardware store and home depot/lowes they charge you close to $5 per disc.
Reply:I had a plating set up. I played with it for a while. With the exception of Zinc, plating is definitely it's own hobby in of itself.  I used zinc for many parts restoring cars and still do. It is wonderful for things like internal door parts, msc brackets. Sand blast the part, coat with Zinc, yellow, then dry it and install it. I didn't have to worry with finish for most of these parts. With plating, finish is like a paint job. It will be as smooth and as nice as prepped. The finish you get is completely dependent upon how much you work the part before hand. For instance, when I did my English wheel rollers, I put them in the lath and worked them to 2000grt sandpaper before hard chroming them. [img]http://www.rc-tech.net/cars2/pla.jpg[img]