newbie -TIG - regrinding contaminated electrode

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Did my first few runs without filler rod and then triedto add rod and contaminated the electrode - as expected Would appreciate clarification and pointer on the following:(a)On the Weldcraft web site :http://www.weldcraft.com/2008/09/tro...ting-tungsten-arc-issues/, it says remove the tungsten from the torch, clip the end and regrind it.What is meant by "clip" / how much needs to be removed (I started just to grind theblob on the end before I had read this - I guess that is not what one is supposed to do The electrode has the blob on the end and blue coloring is visible a little above the "blob".(b)I'm mainly into welding as a hobby (for now), with a stationary and portable sander dedicated to woodwork (would like to avoid using them for metal) so I've tried  using a portable grinder with sanding disc (one piece of sand paper) for regrinding the electrode (I rotate the electrode with a cordless drill) - anything wrong with that/need specific type of sandpaper ?According to my understanding/reading, I regrind so that the reground length of electrode is approx 2.5 times diameter and it is reground to a point (used for DC welding material upto 3mm thickness)
Reply:I grind them until all the contamination is gone..No matter how much it takes..But the secret is not to contaminate it in the first place......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Weldcraft is saying that you should cut off the contaminated portion and start with fresh tungsten. This is mostly true for aluminum. For steel, you don't need to cut it off, usually only the surface is coated with the contaminant and regrinding untill the contanminant is gone will waste less tungsten. Weldcraft sells tungsten electrodes so wasting tungsten is good for their bussiness.I've attached a picture of what the tungsten should look like. I sharpen my tungsten at a little more blunt of an angle than the picture, but that doesn't really matter too much. Making sure that the grinding marks are parallel to the rod is important and I always sharpen to a sharp point. Attached ImagesIan TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:second try for that pichttp://www.pro-fusiononline.com/feed...dec99-fig6.jpg Attached ImagesLast edited by fortyonethirty; 09-17-2010 at 04:56 PM.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:There are ways of breaking, or snapping the end off of a tungsten, which is what "clip" may be referring to.  You might even be bale to do it with sone Dykes / nippers.  However, be very careful with this, it is not recommended in many cases.  Whether it's OK may depend on what type of tungsten you are using.  I can tell you on the type I use, 1.5-2% lanthanated, trying to break the end will cause the remaining tungsten rod to "split" and "crack", and that is really bad news.  The cracked ends will split apart in use and form multiple electrode protrusions, not good at all.Diamond ground products, Inc (a company specializing in ONLY tig tungsten related products) recommend using diamond saws to cut off the contaminated end, but most people don't have one of those handy.  What I do is "grind" the contaminated end completely off with the "dirty" (not dedicated to tungsten grinding) wheel on my bench grinder, then after all the contaminated material it removed, shape up the desired tip profile on my "clean" diamond wheel (dedicated for tungsten grinding) on the other side of my bench grinder.  I figure that method contaminates by dedicated wheel the least.
Reply:Maybe sharpen a few and keep them ready, yes.
Reply:Thanks for all the feedback ! - a few things which haven't been answered/I forgot to ask(a)Can I use the anglegrinder with sandpaper instead of grinding wheel/any specialtype of sandpaper ?(b)Does the blue section above the contaminated "ball end" of the electrodehave to be reground or sanded also ?(c)What do I need to do with the contaminated filler rod end ?
Reply:a. yes, no special paper requiredb. no, blue is okayc. nothing, you can use it againLast edited by fortyonethirty; 09-19-2010 at 04:14 PM.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools