My first welds ever..

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Well.. They're not pretty, but they seem to have worked. I tried for quite some time to break the weld with a hammer and was unable. I obviously have tons of learning to do. What you see here is an old rusty lawnmower blade "expertly" adhered to some old scrap exhaust pipe. Mostly playing with wire feed speed and voltage, etc. My first welds ever..
Reply:First of all, the most important part of welding is preparation. No weld should be done on rusty dirty metal if something can be done to remedy it....second of all refer to first of all, your welcome.
Reply:Originally Posted by SR20steveFirst of all, the most important part of welding is preparation. No weld should be done on rusty dirty metal if something can be done to remedy it....second of all refer to first of all, your welcome.
Reply:Considering there was no prep done and this is the first bead you've ever laid, it's actually not bad.Remember you can practice laying bead without actually joining two pieces of steel - just run bead on a flat surface.  Then you can lay the next bead parallel to compare your progress."These instructions are at our present level ofknowledge. Legal requirements do not exist.Technical issues subject to change."_________________________________________Lincoln MIG PAK 180Lincoln AC-225
Reply:Originally Posted by BellyUpFishYeh, I know. Prep work for welding is just like paint prep work. I was just pumped to get the welder and give it a shot, so I laid what metal I had laying around together and hit it.I'm welcome. LOL. Thanks...
Reply:another addicted weldor..congratulations..
Reply:Originally Posted by HardwareConsidering there was no prep done and this is the first bead you've ever laid, it's actually not bad.Remember you can practice laying bead without actually joining two pieces of steel - just run bead on a flat surface.  Then you can lay the next bead parallel to compare your progress.
Reply:I like the flap disk in an angle grinder but sometimes a grinding disk works better for me. The wire wheel will knock the big chunks of surface rust off but really just leaves a smoother but still rusty layer. I like to see shiny new metal before I go at it so the wire wheel really doesn't cut it for me. Grinding down to bare metal may sound excessive for stick welding but hey, why not? For MIG/TIG I have always had MUCH better results with the metal as clean as I can get it and that means getting the mill scale off of "new" metal as well. What I like the wire wheel for is quickly blasting off that slag in the toes of the last stick bead. Yeah, if I run it just right it will just peel off and fall away but sometimes (and with some rods) I'll get those stubborn wagon tracks and that's where the wire wheel comes in handy. Its fast and thorough when I'm stacking stringers on a project. I keep a cheap HF angle grinder with a wire wheel in it just for that purpose. Slag inclusions really ruin my day.Have fun!Eric
Reply:Ok, so I need to pick up an angle grinder it sounds like.You like the cheap HF grinder?  Is it the $9.99 unit?Wondering if I should just pick up a couple angle grinders to avoid having to change what's in them all the time.
Reply:Originally Posted by BellyUpFishOk, so I need to pick up an angle grinder it sounds like.You like the cheap HF grinder?  Is it the $9.99 unit?Wondering if I should just pick up a couple angle grinders to avoid having to change what's in them all the time.
Reply:Originally Posted by papaharley03No, spend a few more coins and buy the HF 6 amp unit with paddle switch. Find a 20 percent off coupon and use that. I bought 2 so that I can keep a flap disc on one, and a cut off wheel on the other.Get some flap wheels in 40, 60, and 80 grit. The 40 will take you from rust to shiny metal in mere seconds. When the prep work becomes that easy, it's a cake walk to prep before you weld. Use 80 or even a 120 to make a nice looking surface before priming to paint.Congrats on your new addiction. It only gets worse from here. Stick, TIG, Plasma cutting, all of them will be taunting you to try them as you progress.Good luck,Papa
Reply:2 grinders is nice, a grinding wheel in one and a wire brush in the other. i find a cupshaped brush lasts a lot longer and throws fewer dangerous pieces of wire than the disc-shaped brush..
Reply:Originally Posted by BellyUpFishThat was my next question - how much amperage should I be looking at? Is a 6 amps enough for most jobs? All my grinding/cutting to this point has been with a Dremel. My local Lowe's is running a special on Hitachi (I think) may be DeWalt grinders, 2 for $65 I think and no shipping, plus I've got a coupon.
Reply:Yeh, my HF store is an hour away. I may head to Lowe's tomorrow and pick up some stuff.
Reply:is that flux coreLincoln Power Arc 4000 Thermal Arc Fabricator 252 iThermal arc 186Thermal Arc 26 tigTweeko 200 amp spool gunHobart AirForce 400WP-17V-12R
Reply:Yep. I'll probably go gas eventually, not sure yet though.
Reply:You won't find much HF stuff in my barn. I like to buy most tools once or as few times in a lifetime as possible so I shy away from the cheap stuff as much as I can afford to. The funny thing with tools is you don't really save money going the cheap route (I've found). It always comes back to bite me at the worst time possible and now I generally stick with a few brands that have never let me down.Having said that, I will put a cheap HF grinder to work knowing that its probably not going to last but it will take a lot of abuse that I prefer not to put my DeWalts and Metabos through. That HF grinder that PapaHarley is referring to has taken a boat load of being dropped, kicked, run until its almost smoking and it refuses to die. The only problem I had is the nut that secures the wheel to the arbor can get ridiculously stuck on and I broke the wheel lock (to change the disk) trying to get mine free. Now I just stick an old drill bit in there to lock the arbor for disk changing. Tip: Put a little anti-seize on the threads of the arbor and you won't have the problem that I did.If you go to Lowe's you'll see a lot of DeWalt abrasives. Cutting disks, flap disks etc. They seem a little pricey to me (the 4 1/2" variety) and for me they don't seem to last. I use the 14" DeWalt cutting wheel in my chop saw and that seems fine but the DeWalt flap disks never seem to last very long for me. See if you have a Fastenal store in your area. Their house brand abrasives have been working very well for me and the prices seem pretty good. Wonder who makes them for Fastenal?Anyway, have fun. And don't say we didn't warn you that this is going to become an obsessive and expensive hobby. Eric
Reply:flux core is good if you do alot of work out side or in drafty areas ....except the wire is more expensive  but i think it balances out with the cost of gas.... when it is flux core there aint much prep work needed cause it is harder to contaminate unlike gas mig but keep up the practice .....try welding flux on a pull not a push unless going vertical i think it dose better on a push ....oh yeah flux core burns hotter than gas mig and if you do decide to go mig use co2 it runns hotter that c25 or argonLincoln Power Arc 4000 Thermal Arc Fabricator 252 iThermal arc 186Thermal Arc 26 tigTweeko 200 amp spool gunHobart AirForce 400WP-17V-12R
Reply:Well, I got a little more practice in today. Still don't have the proper gear to prep the weld yet. I've got a wire brush I chucked in a drill, it's a start. I'll get some proper equipment this week.I think one thing is for certain - professional welders everywhere need not fret.
Reply:Prep issues aside... It' looks like you are going a bit too fast. That's a common problem with newer welders..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I very well could be. I also think I am trying to weld with my stick out too short. Just saw a video on YouTube that showed basically just drawing lower case cursive E's on the joint with just the stickout building the puddle. I am not letting my stick out get long enough and am keeping the cup too close to the joint and no doubt rushing it.I need to go get some metal. I have nothing else to practice on. LOL.
Reply:I don't do much if any FC wire work, but with mig I keep a very tight stickout compared to many guys I've seen. Many of the students at the tech school try and use way too much stickout and there welds suffer because of it. I'd say I usually have the gun about 1/2" to 5/8" from the material most times, a bit farther with fillet, but not more than 3/4". Personally I don't run a e pattern. I find it deposits too much weld material for the way I weld. I do a small Z pattern or simply run a straight stringer most times when I weld. I can do the e pattern to demonstrate it for students, but I don't get as good a result that way myself.It's the down side I see to Youtube vids. Anyone, regardless of skill level can make one and sound like a pro. I've seen very few vids where I'd actually call the person welding a real pro who knows what they are doing. Most guys I know who weld well, can't be bothered to do a vid..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Great start.We are on our way to being farmers! Our site is always under construction so check back often for updates.  http://www.philosophyfarmstyle.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWIt's the down side I see to Youtube vids. Anyone, regardless of skill level can make one and sound like a pro. I've seen very few vids where I'd actually call the person welding a real pro who knows what they are doing. Most guys I know who weld well, can't be bothered to do a vid.
Reply:Originally Posted by BellyUpFishThat was my next question - how much amperage should I be looking at? Is a 6 amps enough for most jobs? All my grinding/cutting to this point has been with a Dremel. My local Lowe's is running a special on Hitachi (I think) may be DeWalt grinders, 2 for $65 I think and no shipping, plus I've got a coupon.Originally Posted by SandyIn the 4.5" and 5" range I wouldn't buy a grinder with less than 8 amps myself. And that would be for a one handed unit. 12 amps lets you lean on it a bit.
Reply:Originally Posted by BellyUpFishWell, I got a little more practice in today. Still don't have the proper gear to prep the weld yet. I've got a wire brush I chucked in a drill, it's a start. I'll get some proper equipment this week.I think one thing is for certain - professional welders everywhere need not fret.
Reply:Originally Posted by BellyUpFishWell, I got a little more practice in today. Still don't have the proper gear to prep the weld yet. I've got a wire brush I chucked in a drill, it's a start. I'll get some proper equipment this week.I think one thing is for certain - professional welders everywhere need not fret.
Reply:So I went to Harbor freight.  Its over a hundred miles from me. I walked in and first thing was small hand grinders 9.95 a piece.  WOW!  I bought 5. Ive already got a makita and two 7 inch OLD black and Decker's.  But 5 new grinders,  one with  flap wheel , one with cup wire, one with grind stone, one with cut off wheel,  One to replace the first one that breaks. That was 6 years ago.  so far only one broke and that was from dropping it and breaking the handle off.  On that one I mounted a ten inch saw blade and mounted it on the end of a twenty ft 2 inch aluminum irrigation pipe so I could delimb this jungle I live in. I cant see buying a Metabo when I can buy 20 HF grinders for the price. Of course if I could only haul one, like on a job somewhere, then I wouldn't think of hauling a cheap grinder.  Mac
Reply:Originally Posted by assassin_worksi agree with dsw i think your wire speed is to fast slow it down a bit and to start dont concentrate so much on what shape your welding just take it steady and just straight drag that weld just so you can get the feel then practice on e,v, or u