Restarts with 6010 (5P+)

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Is there a trick to getting good restarts or does it just take practice?  My main problem seems to be with 6010's, we are using 5P+ at school.  When I restart the rod, it seems to want to spit and sputter before it has a good arc again, which is causing the bead to pile up on the restart.  I just started long arcing it for just a second when restarting and that seems to help a little, but I wanted to see what you guys have to say about it.In this picture you can see the bead piled up on the restarts toward the right side-Same plate, but you can see the height a little better.  The bottom bead is 6013 which restarts easier, its just my own fault.
Reply:Start the arc in front of the weld crater. Long arc it back to the crater and let it start to melt and then start normal welding.  Of course, this is all within a second of time.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:I assume using the same rod?If so carry a small file and drag it across the tip to get back to the electrode metal, and remove the slag. you'll have a nice quick arcing rod again.I scratch start for the most part. Sometimes tap start.Start about 1/2 inch up and drag back.Pause a little longer on the initial tie in.And make sure to move left to right.Looks like your not going far enough left to right onto the tie in and it's clumping in the center.Pause a split second longer and make sure to hit the sides.Just a little work needed on the tie ins .... Still looks pretty good to me.1981 Lincoln SA 200Miller Trailblazer 302gMiller 211 Mig Welder w/ AutosetI'm learning to stick metal together
Reply:When you end the first rod, don't pause or stuff the rod in at the end.  Just lift off it, leaving a nice crater to fill with the start of the next rod.  Then do as Lugweld said, start ahead of the crater, whip back into the crater to fill and go on.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Thanks for the info guys.DR33, I think you might have solved my f'up.  I've been working on filling the crater at the end of the bead and was also backstepping and filling before ending the rod (in the middle of the bead).A lot of stuff to think about for a FNG and I miss things that are common sense
Reply:I needed the answer to that myself! Glad you asked Josh. Always good advice on WW!
Reply:When you restart the rod, long arc for a second traveling towards where you want to go and then drop to a normal arc length.When you feather your roots/tacks, you want to bring it back and extra 1" or so to have all that nonsense taken care of, and to have a nice hot rod to burn through and tie in correctly.
Reply:Originally Posted by zhillzWhen you restart the rod, long arc for a second traveling towards where you want to go and then drop to a normal arc length.When you feather your roots/tacks, you want to bring it back and extra 1" or so to have all that nonsense taken care of, and to have a nice hot rod to burn through and tie in correctly.