Broken awning part

admin

Our new (refurbished) awning broke about 2 days after installation.  The part was a wierd little bugger, 4" long, 0.7" diameter with a stop on one end and a smaller threaded rod on the other end with a 12mmx1.5 threaded hole perpendicular to the long axis - leaving VERY thin and narrow strips of metal (just over 1/8" at the center) on either side of the 12mm hole.That part is used to change the pitch of the awning and bears the whole weight of the awning (12'x10' fully extended).  Obviously too little metal under too much stress.Manufacturer said they don't have any parts.It looked like a cast part and for the life of me I could not determine what it was made of so I really didn't want weld it.  I tried the following:Didn't want to OA it - too much heat input for an unknown metal. I am sure I would have messed it up.First I brazed it - thinking that the lower heat would pose less risk of slagging the part.  It broke at the same point almost immediately - there just wasn't enough surface area to provide sufficient strength.Second, I tried welding with Hobart Lx235 DC 3/32" 7018 at 70A - no vee, just cleaned up the surface.  The tiny area was too thin and I was worried that I would nuke the threads (only had a 12x1.25 and 12x1.75 tap no x1.5).  Broke shortly after reinstalling.Third, I decided the heck with it and vee'd out the crack (less than 1/8" groove) and hit it with the 7018 again. It held! For each attempt I left the bolt in the 12mm hole to try to preserve the threads.  I was surprised that although slag got all over the bolt, both the bolt and part survived.  First time I used my DC stick welder on such a small part - really pleased at how it turned out.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:Where are the pictures???we need picturesfelonCaution lurker lives here" hmmm That is serious,pass the ganja and pick up a  24 of MGD"
Reply:Where are the pictures???we need picturesfelonCaution lurker lives here" hmmm That is serious,pass the ganja and pick up a  24 of MGD"
Reply:Here is the part and where it is installed on the awning.  I don't have a picture of the repaired part (working out of town right now).Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:hmm, try a piece of steel pipe or bolt same diameter, weld heavy washer for the stop end and drill and tap new threads for the other end...Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:That is a good idea.  I figured that a decent mild-steel part that was milled rather than cast would be stronger.  I got my hands on 3/4" stock (try finding 0.7" stock on a weekend locally) and with no lathe, I employed redneck engineering.Welded 1/4" stub to a 4" long piece of stock. Place 1/4" stub in drill chuck, clamp drill to table, clamp drill trigger on, use angle grinder to remove material until it is near desired thickness.  Follow with 120 grit sand paper - bingo.Trying to find a 12mmx1.5 tap is starting to frustrate me - folks either dont' carry them or are out of them locally.  Looks like I need to order it.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:get-R-done  ! >Innovations are what i leave behind for History
Reply:Originally Posted by gwileyThat is a good idea.  I figured that a decent mild-steel part that was milled rather than cast would be stronger.  I got my hands on 3/4" stock (try finding 0.7" stock on a weekend locally) and with no lathe, I employed redneck engineering.Welded 1/4" stub to a 4" long piece of stock. Place 1/4" stub in drill chuck, clamp drill to table, clamp drill trigger on, use angle grinder to remove material until it is near desired thickness.  Follow with 120 grit sand paper - bingo.Trying to find a 12mmx1.5 tap is starting to frustrate me - folks either dont' carry them or are out of them locally.  Looks like I need to order it.
Reply:Those DC stick welders really are great for everything. I have used them in everything from orlando awnings or go-karts. Glad it worked well for you.
Reply:I am an awning contractor in Phx , Az and I have installed lateral arm retractable awnings similar to yours , made by many manufacturers and I have never had problems getting an obviously defective part replaced. Whomever told you they could not get that pitch bolt was as full of it as they get. Many times the manufacturer will replace the entire arm. Out of curiosity, what is the overall width and the projection of your awning? It sounds to me like your unit should have had three arms on it , I'll bet it only has two. I have never seen this part fail , not in 12 years of installing that style of retractable.I would complain to the manufacturer via their website, going over the head of the local installer/vendor. I would never have left a customer with an answer like that. Neither would any of my competitors. For shame!
Reply:I should have posted an update. The part that I welded is holding up well (survived a few big storms).  The fellow that sold me the awning did finally send a replacement part which I will keep in reserve.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:Any time you do a repair to a crack you have to groove the crack just buttering over the surface of a crack will never holdI like your fix though ..if it works then it's not stupidBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:Putting some anti-seize on the bolts help them stay loose after leaving them in for welding. I welded a good 8 3/8" nuts to some 3/8" plate for a Hi-Lift jack mount for a friend's truck. After welding (even small welds with tig) the nuts warped enough to be REAL tight to get the bolts out. Other 4 I slathered in anti-seize, and they backed right out. I think some of it has to do with the coating burning off and buggering the threads up. Try anti-seize, it may surprise you. If it breaks again, I would think 4 pieces of pipe with the right OD would be a quick fab job. Have it like so: =||= . Weld a bolt in the end of one side, washer on the other, and tap the middle! Way more meat! Assuming you could find tubing with the right ID/OD.Just looked. 3/8" NPS pipe in Schedule 40 is:.675 OD.91 wall thickness.493 IDYou should have this size hole..12mm-1.50mm 10.7mm 27/64" .421The hole is slightly oversized by 0.07"Clearance hole (for shaft) is .551"Correct hole diameter should be .421So, it would probably work. You'd have ~0.058" thread contact area, over the normal 0.072. Right in the middle.Sorry, it's 3am and I'm delirious. If I made some math errors someone please correct me Miller: 200dx, Bobcat 225, Passport, Powermax 45, Milwaukee: Dry Saw, MagDrill, grinders