I need a break.

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...from building my brake. I wasted a little over a week on this thing, now I need to use it for a few days on my next project.I built this one a few years ago to fit on my layout table. I had a decent sheetmetal job come in recently and decided it needs to be rebuilt. As it turns out the only thing I used over is the bending apron.The original clamp bar was just a bridge made of channel with 3 bolts that pressed down on the angle clamp to hold the work. It worked ok but was slow if you're bending a bunch of stuff. Plus it was impossible to remove any work that had a bend on both sides of the clamp unless you dismantled the whole thing, and that takes a good 30 minutes or more to disassemble and reassemble.For version 2.0 I made the clamp a hinged plate with offset pin locks and adjustable connecting rods. To open the clamp you just unlock (push the lock levers away from you) then push down on the levers to raise the clamp. It opens to 6". If I ever run across a set of finger dies I can mod this again to make it a box brake.I went ahead and made it freestanding, too, so it didn't take up space on my layout table. Now I can leave it assembled and ready to go and it doesn't eat up my work space. Moving it is a bitch, though. The main bed and legs are 8" x 13.75 lb channel.The hinged apron is 4" x 4" x 3/8" angle with 1-3/8" o.d. hinge pins in 1-1/4" sch 40 sleeves all welded up with 1/2" plate for the adjustable hinge plates.The clamp bar is 1/2" x 11" bar with a 1-1/2" x 11 gauge tube brace tied in with a 1/2" bar truss.The end plates are all 1/2" plate. The hinge pins are 1-1/2" bar sleeved in 1-1/2" sch 40 pipe that's sleeved through the end plate.The link arms that connect the offset pin to the clamp bar are made from 1/2" plate and are adjustable using 5/8" bolts/nuts.Click here for video.Yeah, I threw a few gussets on it here and there, too.Brian LeonardAppalachian Ironworks L.L.C.434 Long Branch Rd, Marshall, NC 28753828 649 9966828 702 [email protected]
Reply:Man that was quick and slick. Are the lifting arms going to stay or are you going to take those off and go hydraulic only?"The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyMan that was quick and slick. Are the lifting arms going to stay or are you going to take those off and go hydraulic only?
Reply:that's looking good.  how thick do you intend to bend?  what would be the minimum bend radius?  the hydraulics was a nice idea
Reply:Originally Posted by app-ironworksllcI still haven't made up my mind on that. I think I'm just going to make a short set if lift arms for hydraulic use and keep the long ones for manual use if the need ever arises.It would definitely save some space if I got rid of the long arms.
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireCould you use some thick pipe and make the bars removable, best of both worlds?Nice brake. What kind of gauge and widths can you bend with it?
Reply:as usual, great work, nice video, looks like it works perfectly!
Reply:Very cool... I'm in the middle of building a 40'' finger brake myself.....Lincoln pro mig 180Lincoln Square Wave Tig 300/wp 20/home built water cooler Victor, Purox, Harris, O/A welding/cutting setupsVintage Craftsman drill pressVintage Craftsman/Atlas 12"x 36'' lathe7''x 12'' w/c band saw Everlast 140 st
Reply:Originally Posted by rdionneas usual, great work, nice video, looks like it works perfectly!
Reply:Brian, you use and make the neatest tools, why not go into business making and selling your own custom fab tools, I would be among your first customers.wboldenMiller Shopmaster 300Miller Syncrowave 250Miller Thunderbole 250/150 AC-DCMiller Weldpack 140 w/autosetMiller S-22 WirefeederLincoln 255 xt Mig welderLincoln 216 Mig welderVictor,Smith and Harris OA7X 12 JET BANDSAW
Reply:I still have to figure out the clamping system....I don't have a belt sander so the bevel on each finger is hand ground and hand filed until square(the bevel and side of each finger), about a 35-40 degree bevel.Lincoln pro mig 180Lincoln Square Wave Tig 300/wp 20/home built water cooler Victor, Purox, Harris, O/A welding/cutting setupsVintage Craftsman drill pressVintage Craftsman/Atlas 12"x 36'' lathe7''x 12'' w/c band saw Everlast 140 st
Reply:OK my question is after you grind the bevel the metal for the fingers do you need to heat treat them???
Reply:Originally Posted by acourtjesterOK my question is after you grind the bevel the metal for the fingers do you need to heat treat them???
Reply:Originally Posted by acourtjesterOK my question is after you grind the bevel the metal for the fingers do you need to heat treat them???