Pics of slag inclusion

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Newbie, 1 year experience (off and on).  I've just finished a new project where I got to experiment using normal polarity.  A year ago I tried this, but didn't notice a difference.  Now, I do and think this may be useful for certain projects in the future.  One piece on my latest project had really thin walls and I decided to try it here.  I was using 3/32" 7014 @ 70 amps DCEN.  Worked OK, but I kept getting slag inclusion where I started the weld.  I've had problems with slag inclusion using 6013 in the past, so I cleaned the steel up really well with a grinder.  Much of the red you see in the pics comes from paint.I'm pretty sure there is something wrong with my technique when starting the weld, but I can't put my finger on it.  Should I be holding the initial point longer until the puddle really develops and then move along?  Or, is this too low of a current?Thank you.The first two pics are either side of the square tubing I was welding to the angle iron.  The third pic is an example of 3/32" 6011 @ 58 amps DCEP which I completed the rest of the project with. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by mshearneNewbie, 1 year experience (off and on).  I've just finished a new project where I got to experiment using normal polarity.  A year ago I tried this, but didn't notice a difference.  Now, I do and think this may be useful for certain projects in the future.  One piece on my latest project had really thin walls and I decided to try it here.  I was using 3/32" 7014 @ 70 amps DCEN.  Worked OK, but I kept getting slag inclusion where I started the weld.  I've had problems with slag inclusion using 6013 in the past, so I cleaned the steel up really well with a grinder.  Much of the red you see in the pics comes from paint.I'm pretty sure there is something wrong with my technique when starting the weld, but I can't put my finger on it.  Should I be holding the initial point longer until the puddle really develops and then move along?  Or, is this too low of a current?Thank you.The first two pics are either side of the square tubing I was welding to the angle iron.  The third pic is an example of 3/32" 6011 @ 58 amps DCEP which I completed the rest of the project with.
Reply:Another phenomenon that can occur when welding DC is called "arc blow". At least that's what we called it back in olden dayes.Arc blow is actually a magnetic phenom (not actual wind) that may conspire to push/pull molten metal away from the arc point, creating a void, which then allows for the non-magnetic flux to fill that void.We were always told that when encountering arc blow symptoms to entwine (twist around each other) the ground cable and the electrode holder cable for a few feet near the spot where you are welding, leaving only enough free electrode cable for you to manipulate the stinger.Another trick along the same line of thought is to wrap a couple of turns of the electrode cable around whatever it is you are welding on (size and configuration permitting, of course).The intention and aim is to "spoil" or disrupt a strong magnetic field from wanting to repel the molten puddle.The other solution offered back then was to switch to AC when arc blow was noticed.Last edited by walkerweld; 05-30-2013 at 11:18 AM.
Reply:IMHO, 7014 is not the best choice for the short stitches on the angle iron.  7014 has added iron powder in it's flux and is meant for fast fill at higher amperages.  Another need for the higher heat is the radius edge on the lower angle.  You need extra heat to penetrate to the botttom of the joint to burn out any slag. Now you find yourself in the higher range for the rod.  Now you have to control undercut and take care filling the crater when you breakaway.  Suggest trying 100-120 amps, weld half way across, quickly skip to opposite edge and re-establish puddle, weld back towards middle so crater is in the middle of the weld.   This would work fine for 7018 and hopefully for the 7014 also.
Reply:More opinions.....7014 is my favorite rod.  Your steel looks dirty. Looks like you didn't clean the surface to "shinny steel" with a grinder, prior to welding.  Second, 7014 likes more heat.  Third, if you lift the electrode to high with either 6013 or 7014, you get worm holes (slag inclusions).   6013 is really bad with just the slightest "long arc" electrode lift and that's why many people hate it.  7014 is almost the same, but not as bad as the 6013's.  Try keeping the tip as close to the puddle as possible and CLEAN your weld surface area first.  7014 doesn't perform like 6010/6011 on unclean steel.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Your 6011 bead looks pretty good.
Reply:Too cold and didn't get the weld puddle established on the start of the weld.Look at Pic #2 and see how the weld bead is just 'piled-up' on top of the (rusty) metal you are trying to weld at the start of the weld?  Not enough heat/time for the weld puddle (or arc) to melt into the parent metal and then flow nicely into the joint and parent metal.Also, although -some- welding process and fillers/electrodes can 'tolerate' certain amounts of 'non-metal' (like rust, or oil, or paint, or anything else that is not clean shiny metal), you ALWAYS get better welds by removing 'crud' before welding.  Sometimes, you can get 'passable' welds with the crud there, and sometimes you absolutely can't.Clean the metal to bare clean  and shiny before welding.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:SuperArc and MoonRise - yep yep and yep.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Your 6010 looks good but cold on the right side.  Tough area because the steel was thicker in that region.I take it you're left handed?Last edited by Drf255; 05-31-2013 at 05:02 AM.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Walkerweld - I'm getting the picture now.  With more experience (hours not years) I now can remember weird things happening that might suggest a magnetic problem.  I remember vividly one time welding where it looked like my weld steel was being pushed away from my project, and I watched it roll away in great haste.  There was a good bit of rust on the project that I had not removed and I thought this was a result of that.  But now, hmmmm......
Reply:Old Sparks - a little technical for me - that's good.  It gives me something to work toward and on.SuperArc and Moonrise - I thought the pics didn't look very good as far as showing shiny steel.  I spent a couple of hours just grinding all the weld areas before I started.  This was also done a couple of days before I took the pics.  I had removed about 98% of all rust and paint.  Most of the 'red' you see in the pics is old paint.  Anyway, there seems to be a consensus that I'm running too cold - with all rods and polarities.  The owner of the welder said the same thing, "Too cold".I have had bad experiences with burning holes in the small stock I normally work with and have compensated by lowering the current.  I think following the advice of practicing on scrap metal of the same steel as being wise advice and a good use of time.  I'll keep working on that.