Camp Trailer to Utility Trailer

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.Hello!  This is my first post.  I don't have a welder, yet, but I do have a project.I plan on converting this old camp trailer frame into a utility / motorcycle trailer:.
Reply:.Anticipating the purchase of a welder, I installed a 60amp double pole breaker in my external electrical panel:I then hooked an outdoor box with standard 50amp welding recepticle to the bottom of the EP enclosure via metal conduit:.
Reply:.The above post should read 50amp breaker, not 60amp.  Oops . . . . where's the edit button?.Like most other uneducated folks that happen upon this site, I ordered a Dual Mig 151 welder from Harbor Freight BEFORE doing the research.  Oops . . . .Rather than post threads asking "is this a good welder", "what can I do to improve this welder" etc., I will just deal with it.I also have an opportunity to purchase a used but late model Craftsman arc welder for $200.  It has both AC and DC output with a max of either 200 or 220 amps.  The seller can't remember for sure.  It also comes with a hood and a 50' power cord extension:.Sorry for the poor quality of the photo.  It is all that I have been provided with.Searching through the threads here, I see that arc welders seem to be a good choice for a trailer job such as this.Would you kind folks recommend having either or both welders for such a job?Any advice for my undertaking would be appreciated.  Flames are welcome too, so long as someone might have a good laugh at them.For now I am anticipating arrival of my welder(s) and will start practicing before I take this thread any further..
Reply:Just give people a minute, they might be out makin popcorn.
Reply:That craftsman is a pretty decent deal if it is an AC/DC machine. If you want a stick welder, thats not a bad one at that price.As far as the trailer is concerned, if all you plan to do is cut off those uprights ( or add the rest) and throw a sheet of plywood down and call it good, thats ok. If your plan it to transform it into something different, thats another story all together. Things that go down the road, whether it's trailers or vehicle suspention mods, are not begginer projects. You need to be able to make code quality welds in all positions every time. You are a very long way away from that at this point most likely. Expect to burn a lot of wire or rod to get there even with good instruction. This isn't something you'll be able to run a few practice beads and go jump on, expect to take a couple hundred hours of good practice at a minimum. Forget the "it's ugly but it holds" BS and the " I've hit it with a hammer and it didn't break". Niether of those are tests for good welds.If you really want to learn, take your money and go take a night class at a local tech school. When you add up what material, wire, electric and so on will cost you, not to mention the instruction, a class is usually stupid cheap. You'll also have acess to much better machines than that HF POS. After you run a good machine, you'll understand why theHF units are not the best choice for beginners..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Looks like youre off to a good start, that thing'll be a beast of a utility trailer. But like DSW says, trailers are no projects for newbies, unless there aren't any welds involved. But Id bet you could cut off the rear section of the trailer, and put some planks over it and run it that way... Anyway, Welcome to the forum and happy welding [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Oh boy...Here we go..Listen do this RIGHT the first time..That means MAYBE by next year sometime..You already have the "hard" part done as in the basic trailer itself..All your add on's are what will be subject to those here that KNOW what they are looking at and will tell you under no uncertain terms if it is OK or not..Read what they have to say and don't get all upset if you don't like what is brought up..We want you to do this right and some bashing may happen from time to time..LEARN YOUR MACHINE FIRST!!!It is more than capable to do the job..Are you?...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Please reread the the posts by DSW and Zapster before reading this.We need more information on what you plan on doing with the trailer before we can give you any real assistance.Now, go back and reread the posts by DSW and Zapster before continueing to read.There are dozens of trailer threads on this forum. Read them all. There are lots of people that have done some pretty amazing things with a beat up old trailer fram. or from scratch. Take it all in.Then go back and read the posts by DSW and Zapster again.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:.Point taken as far as the importance of quality welds on a trailer and the knowledge / experience required.Ironically, building or working on trailers is probably one of the most common reasons for newbies out buying welders.GOAL / PURPOSE OF TRAILER:I want to make the deck wider, possibly by attaching small I-beams horizontally across the top of the existing frame to achieve a 90 - 96" width.  I would then fit material along the ends; something like 3 x 1" box or whatever matched the height of I-beams.I'm not sure how I want to incorporate either side racks or a side frame system to get the best use out of it.  I will be shooting for a versatile layout such that I could haul many bikes in a sideways configuration, staggering each bike front to back.  Perhaps a stake pocket mounted short side rack incorporating angle iron wheel chocks, and a separate pair of taller side racks for cargo hauling.  I will also need to incorporate an enclosure type of fender similar to that of a pick-up truck bed.After I get some practice on the welders, I will bring the trailer home, cut off the bent up side pieces, and throw some design ideas at you experts..
Reply:Not rying to hyjack thread but I would love to be able to take a night class for this same reason, but there is a 2 year waiting list and the Community College Weld Program has to approve you to be able to take it because there is such a waiting list. Oh well back to old fashion Hood time and Redneck Engineering....LOLMiller 252 Mig w/Spool GunMiller Dynasty 350 TigMiller 225 AC-DC StickMiller Spectrum 875 PlasmaOxy/Acet.
Reply:Keep in mind that campers get a good bit of thier structural strength from the sides that are no longer on your trailer. With the walls gone you've lost a large portion of it's original "frame" strength. For that reason you will need to reduce the max payload to less than what it was originally tagged at. I probably wouldn't trust that over say 1500 lbs max. ( assuming an original weight rating of 3000 lbs) Keep in mind all the material you add will come out of that 1500 lb payload reducing what you can carry. 3" channel will weigh between 4-6 lbs  per foot. An 8' length would weigh 32-48 lbs each, so 10 pieces might reduce your capacity by as much as 33% and you haven't added the deck or sides to this yet.One of the most common issues with trailers is people overload them way beyond their capacity. Especially trailers with large decks. Most have no clue how much all that cr@p they put on there really weighs. If your trailer is "safe" at 1500lb payload, and you've added 500lbs of weight in the new deck, that would only leave you say 1000 lbs to carry safely. I'm not sure what the bikes weigh, but lets say 200 lbs each. so you could carry 5 bikes and stay at 1500 lbs. Want to add a tool box with tools and a spare? You'd need to drop one bike at least..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:what is your axle rated for? your springs? I'm guessing it's not even 3000 lbs. what kind of bikes are we talking? that makes a big difference. What kind of camper was it to start with?To be honest, I would keep the deck inside the tires. You're looking at some serious wells even if you put 3" beam on there and swapping the axle under the springs to raise the deck up. and trailer fenders really aren't that expensive if you don't have to worry about decking around them/driving over them. Not to mention the possibility of overloading that axle. Even if you do decide to go with drop in walls, you're probably going to want a short "truss" style wall that is permanent out of metal. 6"-8" tall. I'm not saying scrap it. but I would suggest some serious consideration of the use versus the foundation.for something like I think you're wanting you need either 1 a stronger axle, or 2 a second axle. guestimating the size I'd say you're looking at a 10'-12' trailer. and you're wanting to cram as many bikes on to it as you can. say 8 dirt bikes in a 12' space. depending on the sizes of the bike we'll guess 250 lbs each. that's 2000 lbs. then like DSW said, through on a tool box, maybe some gas cans, ramps. maybe a canipee, a cooler, etc. granted. you've run out of room if you've got 8 bikes to have all the extras. so lets say it's 6 bikes. plus the extras you're still looking at 2000+ lbs. on 1 small axle. not to mention balancing your load to make sure that you don't have to much weight in front of the axle, or behind it.To be perfectly honest with you. If I were you, I'd return the HF welder, then start practicing while saving money, then I'd buy either a decent used, or a new trailer thats 7'-8' wide already. preferably with tandem axles and then build off of that. It's going fit your needs better, and it'll give you some time to become proficient with your welding. because you shouldn't be doing any welding on a trailer right now anyway.Last edited by ThorsHammer; 10-14-2011 at 11:13 PM.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:That's actually a fairly clean little frame. There's some potential there. Real hot rolled c channel instead of c purlin like many. Or paper thin rectangle like some newer ones. It has to be an oldie. There's no cross members on there that will be of any use but at least it's not like they welded the crap out of 'em. How long is it? That may indicate the original weight. The older trailers were heavier than the newer ones by quite a bit. I know a guy that has an ancient 12 footer. Tows like a tank. A new 12 footer (if you can find one) tows like a kite."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:That is a nice old trailer frame, judging by the square drop axle. No, don't break (out) the popcorn (king) trailer!   Attached ImagesCity of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:[QUOTE=JamesD;563868].Like most other uneducated folks that happen upon this site, I ordered a Dual Mig 151 welder from Harbor Freight BEFORE doing the research.  Oops . . . .I also have an opportunity to purchase a used but late model Craftsman arc welder for $200.  It has both AC and DC output with a max of either 200 or 220 amps.  The seller can't remember for sure.  It also comes with a hood and a 50' power cord extension:.I admire your zeal to learn, keep it going. Let me share some experience with you. I tinkered with an old red buzz box for years welding odds and ends with 6011 and 6013 rods. Then prior to retirement I knew there were some projects (such as your trailer) I wanted to tackle so I thought I would attend a vocational college thinking it would be relatively easy. What an awakening!!!!  After the first semester (attended 5 in all) I realized going to school was a great decision. I left with reasonable confidence on all position welding and more importantly I realized my limitations.  So, I would like to take the liberty to suggest (if you can swing it), attending evening, weekends or full time day classes.  You will not regret learning the different welding processes and positions. I am not saying you cannot be self taught, but it would have not worked for me. Folks here are ready to help, but they will be honest and up front. Wish you the very best, Just FYI, my latest project I just pulled 1700 miles last week. I could have never done this without school. Attached ImagesGeezerPower Mig 255C185 TIGBlue 175 MIGRanger 8 Kohler 20HP1974 5K Lincoln/Wisconsin Powered (Cherry)Victor/Harris O/AK 487 Spool Gun
Reply:.A little more info:The width of the existing frame is 50" outside to outside.I plan on a 12' long section of decking.  The length from the front of the 4" tube bumper to the beginning of the bend in the outer C-channel is about 12'-4".There is approximately 26" of usable space that will be between the decking and propane tanks that I intend to fill with a cargo / tool box of some sort.  I plan on retaining the propane tank tank, using it to hold one propane tank and possibly another modified for compressed air or nitrogen (if feasible).I'm hoping to be able to extend the width of the deck 15" on each side for a total width of 80".  This will allow me one inch of clearance on each side of the outside of the tires.If anyone has a better idea than the horizontal I-beam thought I had, please come forward.I will definitely be investigating the original structure design and intend to incorporate any additional metal to not only enlarge the deck area, but to add to structural integrity as well.My purpose here is to get ideas, as well identifying potential problems, which you folks are helping me out with.  I appreciate all of your feedback!I'm not sure how to determine what the gross rating of the existing axle is.  I would prefer to have this trailer meet a max gross capacity of 3500#, with 3000# being a minimum.If I have to replace the axle to accomplish this, then so be it.  I also will be using different wheels, and trailer specific 15" tires.Once again, I am in the very beginning of planning here, and have a very open mind for ideas.  You folks are helping me ditch the bad ideas and narrow down my options to one or two designs.As far as welding competency, I have decided to have a competent welder help me learn and aid me in any welds on this trailer.Thanks for reading and all of the past and future insight and wisdom offered by one and all!.
Reply:.Here is the Craftsman stick welder that I have obtained.  I found it to be very heavy in relation to it's size.  Hopefully that is an attribute to it's quality.It's specs are 230V input @ 48amps, single phase, Output - 230amps @ 25V AC, 140amps @22V DC, 72 open circuit volts?The nice thing is the 100% duty cycle @ ~90amps DC, and ~115 / 90amps AC.The previous owner welded almost exclusively on AC output.  I found this odd as most feedback on here states DC output as a superior type of welding.Any feedback on this unit is more then welcome, especially in relation to this trailer project:...
Reply:First off. you're showing your potential just be not getting discouraged, and even more so by getting help not just from here, but with the actual welding. Now, as for that axle. you're probably better off getting a new straight axle that you know the GVWR on. that way you can be confident of what you have. and you know it will do the job. the straight axle will bring the deck up higher, reducing the amount of tire that is above the deck, and in doing so, minimizing the fender wells needed. not to mention knowing that the bearings, spindles, etc are all in good shape.The beams for the decking should work fine. just so long as you're using adequately sized material. Not sure I'd go I beam though. Just for ease of securing the decking.How wide are the tires outside to outside. that is going to be the biggest limitation on final size. If you're going to be replacing the tires. I would do so before the build that way you build the trailer to meet what it's going to actually be using.Last edited by ThorsHammer; 10-15-2011 at 01:23 PM.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by JamesD.Here is the Craftsman stick welder that I have obtained.  I found it to be very heavy in relation to it's size.  Hopefully that is an attribute to it's quality.
Reply:.The existing tires are 78" outside to outside.  The new tires will be slightly less I'm guessing.I talked to my local steel supply house and they order trailer axles and accessories through http://sixrobblees.com.Please note, that when I say I want a max gross weight of 3500#, that means in average usage, I would be pulling around 2250 - 2750# gross. Originally Posted by ThorsHammerHow wide are the tires outside to outside. that is going to be the biggest limitation on final size. If you're going to be replacing the tires. I would do so before the build that way you build the trailer to meet what it's going to actually be using.
Reply:Trailer design is not a DIY project. To do it right, you need to be an engineer to size up the frame members.  I doubt thats the case here from your questions. If you want a trailer rated at 3500 lbs, either buy one thats designed for this ( best option over all ) or get one of the premade plans that places like Northern tool sells that are engineered to meet that spec. By the time you oversize all the members to have a safe design, upgrade the axles to carry the additional load of all the extra steel in your over built design, add brakes, tires, wheels, lights and so on, not to mention the welder, gas, wire, electric etc, you could have bought a premade or used trailer that meets your basic specs and still saved money.Store bought trailers are engineered to use the least amount of steel possible to minimize the base weight. That does two things, give you the most payload possible, and saves the manufacturer money because extra steel costs more. You'll also never be able to compete with them on what they pay for wheels, axles, lights, steel and so on since they buy trailer loads at a time vs you buying ones and two where ever it's convenient. This sounds like a great way to build a "cheap" trailer until you really sit down and add up everything involved.Trailers always look like great projects, but they really aren't. The only way building a trailer makes sense is if you need something thats not readily available and you already have almost all the materials on hand, plus the free time and equipment to do the job. Otherwise it's almost never cost effective. Also keep in mind that you will be taking on a huge liability if you build your own trailer and even more if you design it by the seat of your pants. If something should go wrong for any reason, bad weld, under designed frame structure or whatever, the lawyers will eat you alive in court the way things are today, especially if someone is injured let alone killed. If you aren't Incorporated or at least have the liability insurance to cover this type of work, you can kiss whatever you own good bye to cover court costs and the settlement against you.If I was you, I'd toss a basic plywood deck on what you have, add some fenders and maybe a few uprights so you can attach some sides and sell what you have as a 1500 lb trailer on CL. Take that money plus what you plan to spend in steel, deck, new axle and tires and look for a nice used 5-7K flatbed equipment trailer. The deck will probably still be about 6-6 1/2' wide unless you find a deck over wheels trailer. The rental place near me just had 4 for sale 12-16' long, for $1300-2300. That's less than I can get the new double axles, spring hardware, brakes and tires for my 14' tandem landscape trailer. It's almost pointless to replace the axles at that point..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:.Thanks DSW, probably the most excellent advice I will get on here.But, how often do newbies come on here and heed your wisdom? Please do not be offended, as your input has, and will, heavily influence this project very much!The mentality in your recommendations is very straight forward, reeks of common sense, is the most practical, and would be the most efficient.Here are some reasons that people like me do not go that route:Satisfaction of completing your own project, although it came at a high cost of time and money.Flexibility to incorporate special or custom features that separate the finished project from a mass produced existing product.Ability to spend $200 here and $250 there . . . yes, the overall investment is higher, but the allure and illusion provided by the 'in stages' mentality is simply overwhelming Here's what I have learned so far:I will end up spending more on this trailer than a mass produced trailer of equivalent size and capacity.I must have all design ideas approved by someone with not only more knowledge than myself, but with expertise in the field of trailer building and design.I must use my ears more than my welder.Some of you will call me stupid!  Keep in mind though, my questions, ideas, and incessant banter will far outweigh actual decisions and work.  Although I will at times seem naive and ignorant, any actual steps in this project will be well researched and critiqued.The main purpose of my communication on this forum is to elicit both criticism and ideas, with the former highly outweighing the latter!Based on your last post DSW, I would like to study pre-engineered designs of different trailers, gleaning what I might incorporate into my own.  I will do some web research, but if you know of any books out there available, please advise.Thank you all!.Last edited by JamesD; 10-15-2011 at 02:08 PM.
Reply:$24.99 each. Money well spent if you really want to do this yourself when your welding skills are up to par.7000lb  tandem, 16' long but could be shortened to 12-14' with no issues, 8'6" widehttp://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...8243_2003082432000lb or 3500 lb single axle. 10' long x 8'6" widehttp://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...9624_200139624.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Good luck- I'm the opposite personality, a trailer is the last thing I want to spend my time onWhat I enjoy is having the ability to modify anything that I buy- and once you get yer skills down welding is a lot of fun and it does save money, most times- of course if I didn't have this hobby I sure would have  a few more dollars in my wallet.We are currently outfitting our Sprinter van with custom shelves/rack system- the tools purchased over the years has paid for them selves easily in this scenario.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW$24.99 each. Money well spent if you really want to do this yourself when your welding skills are up to par.7000lb  tandem, 16' long but could be shortened to 12-14' with no issues, 8'6" widehttp://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...8243_2003082432000lb or 3500 lb single axle. 10' long x 8'6" widehttp://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...9624_200139624Good luck, here are a couple pictures of mine, just recently added stake pockets so I can put  removeable sides on it.Forgot, here is the welder I do everything with.Last edited by partsman; 10-18-2011 at 01:15 AM.
Reply:[QUOTE=DSW;564123]Trailer design is not a DIY project. To do it right, you need to be an engineer to size up the frame members.  I doubt thats the case here from your questions. If you want a trailer rated at 3500 lbs, either buy one thats designed for this ( best option over all ) or get one of the premade plans that places like Northern tool sells that are engineered to meet that spec. By the time you oversize all the members to have a safe design, upgrade the axles to carry the additional load of all the extra steel in your over built design, add brakes, tires, wheels, lights and so on, not to mention the welder, gas, wire, electric etc, you could have bought a premade or used trailer that meets your basic specs and still saved money.I have built five trailers so far and so far as I know, all are still on the road.  I generally make them for my own use and when I get a better idea, I sell them.  I've been using a couple of books, "TRAILERS, How to design & Build" by M.M. Smith, Vols 1 and 2, and engineering certified plans that are avaiable on Ebay. In my experience, anyone who has has decent welding skills, some technicalknowledge, a good welder, metal cutting bandsaw, and angle grinder can put together a pretty good trailer together for personal use.  I am not the best welder and my beads aren't  pretty but they are at least equal to what I see on the commercial trailers I have owned from time to time.  Used axles and wheels are pretty easy to find on Craigslist and places like Northern Tool carry plenty of parts for building and repairing trailers.  I have messed with a few used trailers but they are mostly basket cases and unless you can get them cheap, they aren't worth fooling with.  The one exception for me was a boat trailer I scavenged and added a bed for my welding trailer. My current project is an equipment trailer I put together from a house trailer frame.  It is mostly built from 8"x3"x3/16" I beam and 3"x3"x3/16 angle.  Right now it is sitting on nearly new house trailer axles and tires with brakes.  Overall dimensions are 20' x 8'.  The main frame is 5' wide with triangular supports cut from the I'beams on 16" spacing.  All Ineed to do to finish it is deck it and run the wiring.  It has a 12,000 bulldog hitch and tandem 7000" axles and tires - I willprobably title it for 8,000#.  It was originally intended to be donated to my wife's temple for their use during construction of a new hall but that project is dead, so I don't know what I will do with the trailer.  I'd love to send pictures but my Hughesnet sat internet connection prevents that.  I might give it a try with my cell phone one of these days when I am in town.I am not a trained or certified welder and I use either a Hobart Champion 10k or  Lincoln 235 AC/DC welder with 6013 and 7018.  I have welded for 43 years on "hobby", home construction, and ag type projects.  I am also a degreed engineer with plenty of course work and practical experience on structures and strengths of materials in the aircraft industry.My point in all this is that one doesn't have to be a pro welder to build trailers but decent welding skills are a must.  There are lots of plans and technical info out there that one can study and get the feel of how to put together a good trailer.  My personal sense is that a small camper trailer frame is pretty light for much of a load.  They look bad enough on the road, loaded down, in their intended use.  I hate to even follow them on the four lane. With this one, I would certainly beef up around the spring mount area and maybe use angle or pipe along the sides, truss fashion for stiffness.Steve in Central TXHH187Lincoln 225 AC/DCHobart Champion 10k genset/welder trailer mountedNo name 3-in-1 Plasma/TIG/Stick Super 200pParker Plasma 50 ampEnco 3-in-1 lathe/mill/drill2"x72" belt grinderOA mutt setupHF 4"x6" bandsawSheet metal brake/shear/roller, various shears and bendersWoodshop w/planers/tablesaw/jointer/drill press/bandsawShopsmith
Reply:.I'm using the big brother to that welder partsman:..I'm not sure if I will be using the AC or DC side of the machine though.  I will have to get some practice in and see what works best for me.Your beginning frame looks weaker than mine.  Did you add some cross members or other structural supports?  I'm assuming so.  Do you have pics of what you added or a sketch?. Originally Posted by partsmanGood luck, here are a couple pictures of mine, just recently added stake pockets so I can put  removeable sides on it.Forgot, here is the welder I do everything with.
Reply:.Thanks for your input SteveWM.I'm the Assistant Manager of a 'mobile home' dealership.  I was under the impression that mobile home axles were designed for limited use between rebuilds, but have people coming in all the time to buy axles and tires.  What have you found as far as reliability and serviceability / maintenance on them?What setting and rod type do you find optimal for doing structural welds on the frame itself ie. adding angle iron, channel, or I-beams?Based on the limited amount I've read so far, the 6013 rod on my machine is better suited to lighter gauge metals through the high amperage channel due to a lower open circuit voltage (45V vs. 72V).  I would think that a 6011 or 7018 would be better suited to this project using the lower amperage channel ( <180amp ).  This would be for reasons of better penetration in the thicker metal and structural joints.  Also, this is strictly speaking of the AC side of the machine.  I have no clue what rod and amperage to employ on the DC side other than reverse polarity.Is this sound reasoning or am I off?  Please elaborate if possible.  Keep in mind I'm just thinking out loud based on what I have read in the last week or so, and have no experience actually using the machine yet. Originally Posted by stevewmI have built five trailers so far and so far as I know, all are still on the road.  I generally make them for my own use and when I get a better idea, I sell them.  I've been using a couple of books, "TRAILERS, How to design & Build" by M.M. Smith, Vols 1 and 2, and engineering certified plans that are avaiable on Ebay. In my experience, anyone who has has decent welding skills, some technicalknowledge, a good welder, metal cutting bandsaw, and angle grinder can put together a pretty good trailer together for personal use.  I am not the best welder and my beads aren't  pretty but they are at least equal to what I see on the commercial trailers I have owned from time to time.  Used axles and wheels are pretty easy to find on Craigslist and places like Northern Tool carry plenty of parts for building and repairing trailers.  I have messed with a few used trailers but they are mostly basket cases and unless you can get them cheap, they aren't worth fooling with.  The one exception for me was a boat trailer I scavenged and added a bed for my welding trailer. My current project is an equipment trailer I put together from a house trailer frame.  It is mostly built from 8"x3"x3/16" I beam and 3"x3"x3/16 angle.  Right now it is sitting on nearly new house trailer axles and tires with brakes.  Overall dimensions are 20' x 8'.  The main frame is 5' wide with triangular supports cut from the I'beams on 16" spacing.  All Ineed to do to finish it is deck it and run the wiring.  It has a 12,000 bulldog hitch and tandem 7000" axles and tires - I willprobably title it for 8,000#.  It was originally intended to be donated to my wife's temple for their use during construction of a new hall but that project is dead, so I don't know what I will do with the trailer.  I'd love to send pictures but my Hughesnet sat internet connection prevents that.  I might give it a try with my cell phone one of these days when I am in town.I am not a trained or certified welder and I use either a Hobart Champion 10k or  Lincoln 235 AC/DC welder with 6013 and 7018.  I have welded for 43 years on "hobby", home construction, and ag type projects.  I am also a degreed engineer with plenty of course work and practical experience on structures and strengths of materials in the aircraft industry.My point in all this is that one doesn't have to be a pro welder to build trailers but decent welding skills are a must.  There are lots of plans and technical info out there that one can study and get the feel of how to put together a good trailer.  My personal sense is that a small camper trailer frame is pretty light for much of a load.  They look bad enough on the road, loaded down, in their intended use.  I hate to even follow them on the four lane. With this one, I would certainly beef up around the spring mount area and maybe use angle or pipe along the sides, truss fashion for stiffness.Steve in Central TXHH187Lincoln 225 AC/DCHobart Champion 10k genset/welder trailer mountedNo name 3-in-1 Plasma/TIG/Stick Super 200pParker Plasma 50 ampEnco 3-in-1 lathe/mill/drill2"x72" belt grinderOA mutt setupHF 4"x6" bandsawSheet metal brake/shear/roller, various shears and bendersWoodshop w/planers/tablesaw/jointer/drill press/bandsawShopsmith
Reply:.I'm thinking about returning the HF unit and buying this:http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5145_200485145...Then, if I found that the stick side of this welder was adequite to replace the Craftsman AC/DC unit, I could sell it and put it toward the Northern Tool Hybrid.Is this NT Hybrid a decent machine or simply another cheap chinese knock off?  The reviews look good, for what that's worth.Is the spool gun a nice feature?  How about the TIG gun accessory?Thanks for any advice and opinions!. Originally Posted by ThorsHammerTo be perfectly honest with you. If I were you, I'd return the HF welder, then start practicing while saving money.
Reply:A little tip on the welding machine you picked up... When you adjust the current up or down, that "handle/squeeze thingy" may work more smoothly if you push in or pull out on it as you move it up and down. Can't remember if it's in/up and out/down, or vice versa, but it can stick and be hard to adjust. If you didn't find this yet...http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=23938  Built entirely with a craftsman buzzbox almost identical to yours.I will echo some of the other fella's sentiments, that a trailer is not the place to start...If you are honest with yourself, you will realize this quickly once you start learning to weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by daddyA little tip on the welding machine you picked up... When you adjust the current up or down, that "handle/squeeze thingy" may work more smoothly if you push in or pull out on it as you move it up and down. Can't remember if it's in/up and out/down, or vice versa, but it can stick and be hard to adjust.
Reply:I think you should keep the craftsman, and work on learning to use it. Forget the foo foo multi-process china toy, and focus on the basics. That buzz box is capable of all that you want to do. Once you are competent with it, you will have a better idea if you need other processes. Good luck.
Reply:and with the ac/dc stick you can upgrade it to Tig weld steel on DC the cheapy HF cant doidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:Yes, I welded in more pieces across and added the fender supports, I don't recall taking pictures of it during as too many people were working with me and I just concentrated on the welding of it, so I will look see, but it has held up for over five years now carrying mostly two or so ATV's on backroads.