School Me on Small Trailers

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Goodafternoon, everyone!!So, I've got a small trailer build coming up that I'm looking for a little guidance on.My mom drives a 2012 Jeep Compass and absolutely loves it... I'm still living here on the farm while I'm in school but a year from now I'll hopefully be in Texas or atleast somewhere else warm...Anyway, I'm leaving, with my truck of course, and my mom is gonna need some way to haul things around once I'm gone...She wants a small trailer... She wanted to buy one from a local big-box-store, but I STRONGLY advised her not to and offered to build one instead. It'll be some cool videos if nothing else  I used to work at that store, and bolted those things together, absolute junk. But, this shouldn't come as a surprise for y'all...So, I've got to decide where to start. Her car only has a 1,500 pound towing capacity (sounds low to me, but thats apparently what the dealer told her), so that'll limit things a little...I'm thinking something like a small utility trailer with a tailgate. It needs to hold a riding lawn mower (tops), but will primarily be used for things like a few hundred pounds of water-softener salt in 50lb bags, bags of sheep feed, sometimes a small cage for when she takes a sheep or a few chickens in to get "whacked", and the occasional roll of fence for when her and her Sebring-driving boyfriend do little projects around the farm. This is basically going to be their only way to haul things around once I pack up...Anyway, I'm fairly confidend in my welding skills (I'm 6G cerfified & have a well stocked garage), but I've simply never built a trailer before.Budget is NOT a serious issue for this build, I want to get this done right and build something that'll last damn near forever. I just have a few questions:1) How much weight difference would there be between a wood floor and using expanded metal?2) Where do you find plans or something to go by? I don't really wanna just wing this... I'll probably be around 5x6, or 6x8 tops...3) Where do you find a kit of everything you could need for the "trailer" part? Ya know, axle, wheels, leaf springs, coupler, etc. Surely there must be a source that'd be cheaper than buying everything individually at the store...4) Any other famous last words? I'll be doing a trailer build for my truck (11,000 capacity) later on, but I figured I'd do this smaller one first.Thanks in advance,Lanse [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Lanse,This company has some good plans for both single and tandem axle trailers, and a good range of components. You can download a .pdf file of the catalog and print out the appropriate pages of plans.http://www.championtrailers.com/Understand that for your Mom, it will be cheaper to buy a good quality small utility trailer than you can make one, but if you are like me, you didn't learn to weld to buy someone else's welding.Last edited by cope; 05-21-2013 at 01:38 PM.
Reply:Put a wood floor in!!!! I can't stand a metal floor. I would just use your own plans. Just a rectangle. Just figure out where you need to put the axle( not another log cart!!!) measure twice! I know northern sells everything u need but I'm sure you can get stuff cheaper online. Not sure on shipping though. I also wouldn't over build it too much. Don't want the little trailer straining her car!
Reply:for a light trailer like that I would order a set of torsion axles as that will let you get the lowest height deck and lowest center of gravity.  etrailer or northern tool or any local trailer supply will sell themtorsion axles are more expensive but once you add in the springs, hangers, axle , u bolts, etc.  mot much to it.  plus there is less issue with wear of the hangers and other parts with torsions because... they don't have those parts.     its just one square shaft in another with rubber crammed in the open spaces... between the twoLast edited by soutthpaw; 05-21-2013 at 02:12 PM.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Check that towing capacity, the Sport models only have 1000 lb, the Latitude and Limited are 2k.  (From a quick google search).You can eat up a chunk of that 1k capacity if you build much more trailer than the harbor freight type.  One of their 4x8's on the website is 221#, that's bare frame, no deck installed.  Build one decent (strong) and you can easily double that, plus.My lawn tractor weighs 620lb per the book...so decent trailer, lawn tractor, you can easily be over the Sport towing (read: braking) capacity.
Reply:I would go 8' long so you can lay full sheets of plywood down flat if need be.  5' wide if carrying a riding tractor, the trailer I have is a hair over 4' and my dads rider barely fits on, it has a good size deck but not the biggest.I would prefer a solid wood or metal deck over expanded metal.  If you ever want to carry anything loose you will need to lay something over the expanded metal.  Mine came with aluminum diamond plate, but that gets pricey if buying new.Northern Tool has complete axle sets, but like mentioned you can probably find cheaper somewhere.  I always thought a rear axle from an old Dodge Caravan would make a decent axle for a trailer.  Would probably be cheap from a junkyard.
Reply:Northern tool sells trailer plans for a wide variety of trailers. I'd start there. As said be careful not to over build too much, or you'll eat up all your load carrying capacity.As far as a trailer for your truck later, keep in mind that in many states as soon as the trailer tops 10K  whether you top a combined weight of 26K or not, you will need a class A license. Some states have non CDL class A licenses, but in other states you'll be treated the same as if you were running an 18 wheeler. That extra 1K of payload can add up real fast cost wise..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:http://www.carry-ontrailer.com/products/group/3/You can get an idea of weights for the different size trailers.beat the crap out of mine- not a bad purchase- iffin you decide to buy one Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWNorthern tool sells trailer plans for a wide variety of trailers. I'd start there. As said be careful not to over build too much, or you'll eat up all your load carrying capacity.As far as a trailer for your truck later, keep in mind that in many states as soon as the trailer tops 10K  whether you top a combined weight of 26K or not, you will need a class A license. Some states have non CDL class A licenses, but in other states you'll be treated the same as if you were running an 18 wheeler. That extra 1K of payload can add up real fast cost wise.
Reply:You're not going to ask the trailer building expert, Jon?But seriously. You only got one mom, so take care of her! How about a lift gate too?Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1The Non CDL Class is for RV trailers- not commercial i.e.. weldingWe have that here 10,001 and yer CDL for bidnessBumper pull RV  trailers over 10,0001  Non CDL Class A5th wheel over 15k
Reply:Lance, just my thoughts on trailers, I have two, both galvanized.  One is a custome made tandem axle made by Triad for my sail boat and the other is a tilt bed 2.4k lb capacity utility made by LOADRITE.  Both are galvanized.  No maintenance.  Something for you to think about seeing you want yours to last a lifetime.   Best  Bob
Reply:Look at commercially built trailers and copy the one you like the best. I've built around 40 trailers through the years and have never had plans. You shouldn't need them either. A trailer is basically a rectangle with a triangle stuck under one end.
Reply:My little trailer build was limited to 42" wide, because of the axle I was given. There is a place called Johnson Surplus, in White Pigeon, MI. They, by far, have the cheapest prices on axles and all other trailer parts. If I was buying an axle, I would get one to make a 4' wide trailer and I would make it 8' long, with 16" sides. That way it takes 2 sheets of plywood to redo it."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:http://www.trailerplans.com/Pay attention to the balance so she can move it around easilyIt's faster and cheaper to galvanize than it is to paint.Don't burn holes in the tubing to run wires.I see that in commercial trailers and that's just stupid.Fully half of the tube that joints the whole trailer to the tongue was torched out on one and started rusting from there.A wood floor of 2x6's or 2x8's will save you a few hundred pounds over a 1/4" deck and be stronger.Just calculate based on actual lumber size vs nominalIf you want to use a riding lawnmower, give it a full flip down ramp-tailgate.It makes it easier to use wheeled carts or walk up it.for the other stuff tooMake the lighting reliable, guarded and plentiful, one lamp out? no problem there are more.make it so you can haul 4 x 8 sheets or wood or whatever.I'd give it sides, even if they are low, that fully open angle iron photo above make it useless to put stuff inside.I'd give it plenty of handy hold downs to tie down the mower, tarp, whatever.Last edited by 12345678910; 05-21-2013 at 10:45 PM.
Reply:Unless you can find a good deal on the materials, in my experience it's cheaper to buy a trailer.Where I live I can't buy everything to build a trailer for less than it is to buy one.Good luck and have fun
Reply:I have found a lot of parts for my trailers at:www.easternmarine.comI wouldn't build it any bigger than 5x8 for what she is going to use it. Also, on a small trailer try to stretch the distance between the hitch and wheels so that backing it up is easier. I've seen some small trailers that were nearly impossible to back up because they turned so fast.What about making it out of aluminum to save weight?
Reply:What about upgrading the suspension of the compass? Heavier springs will increase towing capacity. (Though not by much on something like a compass)
Reply:Here's a drawing for a 4'x 8' trailer I built, and still have, 5 years ago. It's actually 4'-2" x 8'-2" inside so it'll hold a sheet of plywood without getting doglocked in there. There are some small  details missing as I knew what I wanted but I drew it up anyway. Corner gussetts to support the floor in the corner, plates under the deck with nuts so I could screw tie downs thru the deck etc. I used the torque-flex axles rather than the springs, they don't bounce as much when empty, more expensive than leaf but worth it. ....Mike Attached ImagesTrailer pg 1-2.pdf (93.0 KB, 151 views)Trailer pg 3-4.pdf (97.6 KB, 88 views)Trailer pg 5-6.pdf (110.9 KB, 91 views)
Reply:In agreement with the comments to copy a nice trailer you see somewhere.  Nothing easier."Axle back" trailers tow easier.  The axle being further to the rear of the trailer.Small 2000lb trailer doesn't need brakes unless you want them.  Trailer brakes improperly balanced can cause more trouble than good.Spend the extra money and buy a positive lock Bulldog hitch http://www.amazon.com/Bulldog-28463-...+Trailer+Hitch  The price is higher, the weight rating is way more than you need, but these are the BAR NONE BEST HITCHES.  No worries about the stupid things going out of adjustment, and coming loose.  Take my word for it.  I refuse to modify/build anything with any other style hitch.I'm not a fan of torsion axles.  I've seen a few of them go to crap over the years.  Either from excessive loading, or just plain cyclical use.  Spring axles are about the best for durability, and will be good for your development of fabricating skills (layout etc.)Axle kits should be available locally from a trailer supply.  Try to get one with bias ply trailer-only tires.  Lot cheaper.  Remember that most tires will die from dry rot before they actually wear out.  ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS   15" rims ought to be about the best.......easy to find just about any tire to fit it.Determine the registration/title laws in Ohio.  Keep all receipts and take pics of the build, these will probably be needed to prove ownership.  Probably can't get a VIN# without them.Pay extreme attention to building square, your alignment will depend on a square build.  Square, and planar, is the rule.Dunno how your out-of-position skills are, no bad feelings here, it's something I'd say to anybody.  If uncomfortable with out-of-position it doesn't hurt to flip the frame for critical welds.  I might add here that I'd recommend no flipping.  You develop skills by DOING.  A responsible person will grind out bad welds, and do them right.  It forces you to learn and become confident.Use Equipment Paint, do NOT use automotive paint, it's expensive, and it sucks.Floors are a matter of preference.  Wood is nice in that stuff doesn't slip on it.  Treated lumber works fine if you use close spaced crossmembers (the extra crossmembers can add a lot of weight though).  11ga diamond plate makes very nice floors that don't rot, and break through, and require less under-floor framing.  AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO MESS WITH SELF TAPPING SCREWS  Weight issues aren't that bad with metal flooring.  You'll find that a good wood floor can be pretty heavy too.You'll do fine"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Regarding "beefing up" suspension components of the towing vehicle:Practically speaking, enhancing the OEM suspension to improve performance/handling is not a bad idea at all.But don't be misled into thinking that doing so will allow you to LEGALLY use a heavier trailer or a heavier load without fear of getting a citation.Any "trailer cops" who target your towing combination will look at the GVWR rating and/or towing capacity as it is stated by the OEM.Just because YOU make changes that are alleged to increase load capacity or towing capacity of a vehicle doesn't mean squat to the officer looking at the OEM's door pillar sticker (or the data sheet on a laptop).Any changes to anything that might improve or increase the GVWR of a vehicle have to be certified by an approved agency of the state the vehicle is registered in, and supporting documentation issued describing the upgraded GVWR.Another caveat is that the state may simply defer to what the OEM will endorse regarding suspension upgrades/alterations.That usually means if you want to beef up your suspension..........the OEM will not underwrite the changes UNLESS the alterations/modifications are done using OEM parts.Or, in other words, if you want to legally upgrade a Chrysler vehicle to a higher GVWR and get official certification, you will have to make the changes using parts obtained from the OEM, and possibly be required to have the work done by an authorized service center appointed by the OEM.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldRegarding "beefing up" suspension components of the towing vehicle:Practically speaking, enhancing the OEM suspension to improve performance/handling is not a bad idea at all.But don't be misled into thinking that doing so will allow you to LEGALLY use a heavier trailer or a heavier load without fear of getting a citation.Any "trailer cops" who target your towing combination will look at the GVWR rating and/or towing capacity as it is stated by the OEM.Just because YOU make changes that are alleged to increase load capacity or towing capacity of a vehicle doesn't mean squat to the officer looking at the OEM's door pillar sticker (or the data sheet on a laptop).Any changes to anything that might improve or increase the GVWR of a vehicle have to be certified by an approved agency of the state the vehicle is registered in, and supporting documentation issued describing the upgraded GVWR.Another caveat is that the state may simply defer to what the OEM will endorse regarding suspension upgrades/alterations.That usually means if you want to beef up your suspension..........the OEM will not underwrite the changes UNLESS the alterations/modifications are done using OEM parts.Or, in other words, if you want to legally upgrade a Chrysler vehicle to a higher GVWR and get official certification, you will have to make the changes using parts obtained from the OEM, and possibly be required to have the work done by an authorized service center appointed by the OEM.
Reply:In some countries, this is considered "safe". Attached Images
Reply:Who needs a trailer when it fits on a bicycle??Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:recommend you dont accept the dealers statement on capacity..verify with jeepI built my trailer 5'X10' with 27"side walls ,all of the angle iron used was 1/4" 3X3. I then used 5/4 (11/4")X 6" treated deck boards for the deck and side walls, has worked well so far. But I want to build my next one 6'6''X12' or 14' long.  It will be more money out of pocket to build then to buy one but what fun is that. best of luck.Joe
Reply:i know that your wanting to build one, but i just bought a 6x8 today at TSC for $900 3500# dexter axle,2x6 treated lumber deck,gvwr of 2400# and rated to haul a max of 1700#.  i would assume that the trailer would way about 700#.  i know that you said your mom's compass is only good for a 1000# gross, but just wanted to throw it out there.  it needs a little refining, but definetly cheaper than building one.
Reply:Honestly, for the towing rating that you've got, you need to go Ali on the trailer. You don't have the room to spare on the payload for a well built steel trailer.  5'x8' would be what I would go with too. 5'x10' wouldn't be bad either. and the Ali's have minimal maintenance like a galvy trailer. You should be able to find the towing capacity on the back of the rig or in the drivers door jam. If it's already got a hitch it's usually built on the hitch.The best thing you can do is get her a new BF that will actually be able to take care of her while you're gone though.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Also, most vehicles are limited more by their braking capacity than their suspension capacity. adding heavier duty springs to increase towing capacity is BS. Braking is far more important as a well balanced trailer will have less than 15% of the load on the tongue and thus barely effect the suspension on the tow vehicle. as stated the tow rating is 1500# max. so at most with 15% of the weight on the tongue he's looking at 225 lbs of weight on the tow vehicle. That less than most american adults. Even a vehicle with a larger towing capacity is limited in the tongue weight. for example My trailblazer EXT can tow 7000# with a weight distribution hitch (5000#  without)as long as the tongue weight is less that 900 lbs. thats only 12.8% of the total load on the tow vehicle.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by kctgbUnless you can find a good deal on the materials, in my experience it's cheaper to buy a trailer.Where I live I can't buy everything to build a trailer for less than it is to buy one.
Reply:I am not going to lie to you. Building a trailer can be a lot of work and a lot of fun, if you like welding and building things. When you determine what size you are going to build, make a bill of materials. List every thing you are going to need like metal, axle, springs and spring kits,etc. While you are doing it don't forget things like coupler,lights,safety chain,bearing grease, paint and other things people usually forget about when they are figuring cost of buy versus build. After you have your bill of materials you can shop for best prices and determine if you can afford the fun you are going to have.As has been stated already, you are going to have to pay more to build one than to buy. The people who make these trailers know how to work fast, have their jigs set up,buy in volume, and know where to buy stuff. There is no way you can build a comparable trailer and beat them on the cost. Anyway, the bill of materials will save you some trips when you buy your stuff because it will keep you from forgetting stuff and having to make multiple trips. It will also serve as a good reference for somebody if they marvel at your handy work and start getting ideas.
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawfor a light trailer like that I would order a set of torsion axles as that will let you get the lowest height deck and lowest center of gravity.  etrailer or northern tool or any local trailer supply will sell themtorsion axles are more expensive but once you add in the springs, hangers, axle , u bolts, etc.  mot much to it.  plus there is less issue with wear of the hangers and other parts with torsions because... they don't have those parts.     its just one square shaft in another with rubber crammed in the open spaces... between the two
Reply:Dexter Axle has a great Trailer Resource Libraryhttp://www.dexteraxle.com/resource_library_
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardDexter Axle has a great Trailer Resource Libraryhttp://www.dexteraxle.com/resource_library_
Reply:Originally Posted by LanseSebring-driving boyfriend