Do these voltage #'s sound about right?

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I used my DMM to get the voltage from each tap on my 210mvp, did it on 120 and 240v.           220v                       120v   unloaded    loaded        unloaded    loaded1.  19            15.5            2.  21.5          17.53.  24.5          194.  26.9          20.5          18.9          135.  29.6          21.5          21.8          146.  32.1          23.5          24.8          177.  34.9          24.5          28.3          20The reason the "unloaded" is more precise is because I wasn't having to hide my eyes and read a meter at the same time while striking an arc. And the "loaded" #'s are an average of what I was getting, it was bouncing around a little, these are the #'s that showed up more than once. Some a little higher, some a little lower. Also tagged the wires at the polarity block inside the door, idk if that makes a difference or not. Are these #'s close to what it should be?
Reply:Crap, for some reason it took out the spacing in the chart when I posted it here's a image. Attached ImagesLast edited by jsinar; 07-12-2013 at 09:37 PM.
Reply:Looks fair to me. The loaded numbers can change drastically baed on your WFS, and distance to work vs you OCV. Look at the number that are represented by the dial and the loaded numbers should be close to that. The way you can figure it out if the info is not in the manual is to lok at lowest voltage available and assign that to tap #1, look at the highest and assign that to tap #2, divide the remaining voltages up by the number of taps left. There will likely be a 2 VDC difference between taps.
Reply:Dumb question now, how do you figure amps out of these #'s. I've got the miller setting app on my iphone, but it doesn't give voltage settings, only amps.
Reply:Theoretically 15.5v-30a,17.5v-73a,19v-105a,20.5v-135a,21.5v-155a,23.5v-195a,24.5v-215a .
Reply:Your amperage would be a product of the wire type, size and feed speed. Up to a point that is. The closer you get to the saturation point of each wire size/type the less the feed speed affects the current. Thus the curve as shown on all the charts. A couple of things. For a guestimation you can make yourself more familiar with the wire feed speed vs amp curves of each of your favorite wires. There are tons of charts and info on that out there. Start downloading the manufactures specs for each wire you plan on using is a start. If more accuracy is needed then you get out the clamp on and do with the amps just what you did with the voltage. Get a good bead going at different scenarios then hit the hold button and your clamp on. Get enough readings over an stretched out period and you soon get familiar with about whats going to happen when you start cranking knobs. It takes time, then it all starts to sink in.Some of the flux cores can be sort of tough to nail down. funny things happen with wire speed changes. Refer to the manufacturers charts for each of those, even when staying with the same wire spec but changing brands. The manufacturers info is free and it is your friend."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyYour amperage would be a product of the wire type, size and feed speed. Up to a point that is. The closer you get to the saturation point of each wire size/type the less the feed speed affects the current. Thus the curve as shown on all the charts. A couple of things. For a guestimation you can make yourself more familiar with the wire feed speed vs amp curves of each of your favorite wires. There are tons of charts and info on that out there. Start downloading the manufactures specs for each wire you plan on using is a start. If more accuracy is needed then you get out the clamp on and do with the amps just what you did with the voltage. Get a good bead going at different scenarios then hit the hold button and your clamp on. Get enough readings over an stretched out period and you soon get familiar with about whats going to happen when you start cranking knobs. It takes time, then it all starts to sink in.Some of the flux cores can be sort of tough to nail down. funny things happen with wire speed changes. Refer to the manufacturers charts for each of those, even when staying with the same wire spec but changing brands. The manufacturers info is free and it is your friend.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1What " unusual" fluxcore would be run through a 210mvp?
Reply:Originally Posted by jsinarDumb question now, how do you figure amps out of these #'s. I've got the miller setting app on my iphone, but it doesn't give voltage settings, only amps.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyNot necessarily unusual wires, unusual characteristics in the amperage/feed speed ratios. As an example, E71T-11, .045... Hobart states at 105 ipm theirs should be about 115 amps. Lincoln specs say that at 70 ipm theirs is about 120 amps. Not like solid wires where they are nearly the same across brands. In this case you couldn't "assume" that 1 ipm equals 1 amp for .045 E71T-11 for the start of the curve across brands. You really need to look at the wire specs per brand. Of course you find out real quick anyway once you fire it up and start welding. Same thing in the .035 range too when comparing different brands.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1I still don't get why people need the voltage/amp info on these small little hobby machines.Set the machine, weld, adjust.