Show me your cutting setups..

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Hey guys i have a bandsaw and im pretty sick of it, its very low to the ground so you always have to lean over, I dont have a platform to hold the lengths of steel when cutting so i find it hard getting straight cuts. Also the bandsaw doesnt move so you have to move the steel if you want cut 45 degree angles. So im thinking of buying a cold saw.Regardless i want to see your conveyor or benchs used for cutting steel. Particularly length stops for cutting many lengths accurately.CheersThe first two pics are what i want to see and the third is of the bandsaw i have. Attached Images
Reply:It would be very easy to get your saw to the proper height.  I've used 12" stringer channel on edge to build up a low-to-the-ground Jet bandsaw before.  As far as a roller table goes, you might be able to locate a used one at a local manufacturing / packaging plant.  Depth stops are easy enough to make -- just be careful that your design doesn't keep the drops from falling free if you don't have an outfeed table -- I have seen at least one bad design that regularly pinched the blade.  I have used pipe stands to catch drops if there's no outfeed table.I have no experience with cold saws, so if that's what you meant I can't give you any advice on one.But if you meant a "dry-cut saw", let me say this - I would not get rid of your bandsaw for a dry-cut saw if you're doing much shop work at all.  Since most of my work is mobile, I only have a dry-cut saw and don't have a horiz bandsaw.  The bandsaw gives a lot of flexibility (tooth pitch and blade SFPM) that is harder or impossible to come by on a dry-cut saw.  You can also walk away from a working bandsaw and do other things while it's cutting - not so with a dry-cut saw.
Reply:Originally Posted by tbone550  ...You can also walk away from a working bandsaw and do other things while it's cutting...
Reply:i rarely stick around while my bandsaw is cutting.  thats one of my favorite attributes of the bandsaw is it shuts itself off and it can be left alone while i do something else
Reply:i'd like to see a similar setup to what you are asking so i could also ask some specific questions myself. I have not seen anyone here with a cold saw and a measuring system. Ive slowly been buying good equipment and i plan to buy a brand new saw next year. Im looking at the scotchman 350LT cold saw with their conveyor/measuring system. Pretty affordable package too.
Reply:Originally Posted by slow6iyou SHOULDNT - but i suppose its possible.
Reply:Lol still no pictures or designs BLAST!! im thinking of using aluminum t slot extursions to be able to lock into place desired lengthsMain reason for me wanting a cold saw rather than a bandsaw apart from working height is i believe its more accurate ( could be wrong) and for the amount im antipating to spend ($2000) i can cut the size steel i generally use, the band saw i have is capable of cutting large pieces, seeming im not qualified to do structural work theres no point Attached ImagesLast edited by nerdstar; 12-18-2011 at 12:43 AM.
Reply:after i get back home from after x-mas ill post a pic of my dads its simple and acurateLincoln Pro Core 125Lincolin sp 100Miller Big 40Lincoln Idealarc SP250miller matic 212http://www.facebook.com/hdwelding?sk=wallwww.hdweldingbeds.com
Reply:For accurate and square length cutting the stock needs to be level and at the same plane as the saw table. Ditto for supporting the length being cut.This always sounds trivial, until one begins tearingtheir hair out, trying to get consistent cuts. A helper and self spent 3-4 hours getting thingshalfway dialed in, between the conveyors and the saw table.Below is my current setup, 20' of stock conveyor nested inside an Interlake stock rack.There's another 10' conveyor- stored behind the 20', for use as a takeoff (cut end) supportfor production bundle cutting, which i don't do anymore.For long, single cuts, I just hand support the material as the cut finishes.A 10' pipe locked into the saw has a sliding cutting stop on it. It's a tee handle with angle welded onto sliding tube over the pipe.Cut lengths are checked with tape, at least twice, prior to cutting.Regarding your pic's of what 'looks' like a nice saw stop.....I would be extremely leery of expecting that rolling stop indexed to a riveted tape measure, to be accurate and consistent, for a whole bunch of reasons.I wouldn't trust it as far as I could throw it.In any case, carefully double checking with a tape against what the stop sez, just comeswith the job, if accuracy counts. Having to do that, in itself, pretty well negates any valueof that neat looking tape and only adds confusion to the task. The setup i've shown and used for 23 years, gets me within 1/16" total without hassle.1/32" with hassle.If need be, I can get down to .010 total--on small, short stock.http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1324190713http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1324191810http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1324190755 Attached ImagesBlackbird
Reply:Dave your setup looks great, thanks heaps
Reply:nice set up Dave, I have that same saw at work with a coolant setup, great saw
Reply:Here is an infeed table I made at work with stock storage incorporated if it helps
Reply:I'll try to post some pic's of my chop setup after xmas. When it's quieted down. What about a dry saw? A lot cheaper and less messy than a cold saw. Just a thought.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:I'm on a budget.  Here's my shop cutter...
Reply:Originally Posted by ANVILI'm on a budget.  Here's my shop cutter...
Reply:Originally Posted by monkersnice set up Dave, I have that same saw at work with a coolant setup, great saw