Pipe Certifications

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Im considering practicing more on pipe seeing as that all anyone i talk to about welding brings up "well pipe is where the money is at" i believe pipe welders are the cream of the crop" im assuming most of you have heard something along these lines before so a couple questions one what is the best size diameter pipe to practice on? im thinking anywhere from 2-7/8 to about 5 inch depending on what my local steel yard has and what my chop saw can handle also what is the best thickness to practice on? im thinking about 5/16ths or so can anyone chime in and give me some advice also i will be practicing in the 6g position
Reply:First I'd look into what industries are around you, and where you want to work. 2 7/8 'pipe' isn't really that. It is more than likely drill stem. If I was going to learn pipe, I'd first want to learn the lingo, what is pipe, what it is not, what sizes and wall thickness is common to what industry, etc. then find yourself a welding school and go learn. Otherwise, go get hired on as a helper for one of the rig guys. You will learn more, faster with someone to show you than you will learn on your own over a long period of time. If you still insist on trying it yourself, go get some 6" pipe and cut yourself some pups about 20 " long, get about 4 of them. Wel 2 together, then the other two together, then weld the pairs. Then cut out the 3 wedding bands and have another go at it. Practice until your pups are used up. Post up pics of your trials.
Reply:I believe all my tests for pipeline were 6 in. 3/8ths wall. If you practice on flat plate till you can do up hill down hill overhead and horizontal then you shouldnt have much trouble on pipe. I think you could cut and bevel with your torch faster than a chopsaw. Cheaper too. Stand your coupons on the table and bevel from the top. Easier to clean up. Hit them with the big hand grinder and you are ready.
Reply:Originally Posted by flux core joeIm considering practicing more on pipe seeing as that all anyone i talk to about welding brings up "well pipe is where the money is at" i believe pipe welders are the cream of the crop" im assuming most of you have heard something along these lines before so a couple questions one what is the best size diameter pipe to practice on? im thinking anywhere from 2-7/8 to about 5 inch depending on what my local steel yard has and what my chop saw can handle also what is the best thickness to practice on? im thinking about 5/16ths or so can anyone chime in and give me some advice also i will be practicing in the 6g position
Reply:If you are new to welding pipe, the larger diameter pipe you can find the more it will be like welding plate... 2" (2 3/8) or smaller pipe is a pain to start out with, as your transitions happen really quickly from 12:00 to 6:00 (or reverse if you're practicing an uphill procedure)  12" .375 wall is pretty easy for beginning.  (I say this, not really knowing what your skill level is.  I don't mean to offend you if you have some pipe experience, just trying to be helpful.)-------------------------Chemetron AC/DC 300 HFSnap-On MM300L Lincoln SP140 Lincoln AC/DC 225g Lincoln SA200 Lincoln SA200 Miller Bobcat 225GVictor torchesH&M and Mathey beveling machinesMcElroy Plastic pipe fusion
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloI set up and supervise the weld tests at our shop. My suggestion: 6" or 8" pipe. .375 wall thickness. 35degree bevel, with a 1mm max flat at the bottom of the bevel. 3/32 gap. 6010 root, 7018 fill and cap. Minimum 3 passes. Tack up as you like, 4 to 6 points depending on the size of the pipe. Then, set pipe in a 6G position (On a 45) Full penetration root, meaning it needs to be a solid 1/8" to 5/32" wide on the inside, with a protrusion of 1/16" to 1/8". Over 1/8", you are likely failing for the root drooping. Cap pass must wet both sides, must not fall below the line of the pipe itself, with a protrusion of 1/16" to 5/32" being ideal. 3/16 weld bead protrusion is a little high. No undercut. NONE allowed on the final pass. Grind between each pass, inspect each bead and grind porosity before adding material. Back grind all starts and stops before laying another bead to cover.2" is a useless test when you are looking at pipeline welding. 4" would be the bare bones minimum to practice with; you just don't get enough 'Weld' on a 4" pipe to get yourself in a groove and run with it. Not when you are learning it.Good luck, hit with any other questions. (HINT: See a few shops and look for scrap pipe to buy for cheap cash to pay for weld test samples. And, prepare for a LOT of cut and grind work to make your sample pieces.)
Reply:Originally Posted by Rojodiablo....set pipe in a 6G position (On a 45) Full penetration root, meaning it needs to be a solid 1/8" to 5/32" wide on the inside, with a protrusion of 1/16" to 1/8". Over 1/8", you are likely failing for the root drooping....
Reply:Originally Posted by Bostick101Like ive posted before on other threads. Practice as if you were going to test. That means 2'' schedule 160-180 wall and 6'' schedule 40-80 wall. The guy ive quoted has it to procedure but that's what experienced welders are expected of and that's whay ******* inspectors expect. By god were human and make mistakes we are not programmed.  IF you wanna learn how to weld pipe then you need to do it everyday for a few hours after work/class or what not. Also tacking the pipe in 4-5 places um no that's ignorant... 2 spots. that's all you need. Here is why: More tacks = more tie-ins. More tie-ins= more chances on no fusion or bad spots, more bad spots = failed test on your bend or xray. So the less tie ins the better. When I test I tack my piece 2/3rds of one side and 2/3rds of the other so I have like 1 inch on both sides to tie in. If you can weld it flat do it. There is no rule on tacks and how long they can be. Procedure they let us use E6010 for our root and 2 hot passes. and fill and cap with 7018 lo hi. Practice makes perfect. my profile picture is that of a 2'' 160 wall. take a gander. Any questions private message me.
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGmost of this is good, but some places do have rules on tack length. most specify 3/4", some say no more than 3/8". You need a bevelling machine if you want to cut pipe coupons, otherwise you'll spend too much time grinding..
Reply:Minimizing tacks is very good advice. You have to make sure however, you don't end up dog legging the 2 coupons. If that happens, you will to use 3 tacks instead of 2 to make sure the pipe stays straight when welded. Do not thin your tacks out too much with your grinder after you put them in. Just touch each side of each tack with your grinder to expose clean metal. Thinning out the entire tack takes away the strength of the tack and you risk dog legging the 2 coupons and creating a wider root gap on one side and you don't want that. That situation also creates a tighter root gap on the other side of the pipe.Don't be afraid to look into structural welding. Plenty of money to be made doing that type of welding as well.Last edited by snoeproe; 08-10-2013 at 03:22 AM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by Bostick101When I test I tack my piece 2/3rds of one side and 2/3rds of the other so I have like 1 inch on both sides to tie in.
Reply:its such a joke I do it every time and pass and make money. weird I know right? the guy above posted for a "perfect test specifications". Im teaching you ways to do it right and still pass. so before you criticize please do some research.
Reply:What can I say.......The CSB report pointed out that Texas is one of 11 states that have not adopted national safety standards for pressure vessels. First developed in 1915, the American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code provides rules for pressure vessel design, fabrication, weld procedures, welder qualifications, and pressure testing....I'm humbled.  Tack as you please.Last edited by OldSparks; 08-10-2013 at 12:39 PM.
Reply:Pressure vessels? You cant be a ***** and a welder. we don't dabble in that nonsense. Stay in your shop and weld your vessels ill be out building 60 billion dollar natural gas plants. good day sir.
Reply:Originally Posted by Bostick101Pressure vessels? You cant be a ***** and a welder. we don't dabble in that nonsense. Stay in your shop and weld your vessels ill be out building 60 billion dollar natural gas plants. good day sir.
Reply:Originally Posted by ManoKai@ Rojo - Full root penetration.  Never understood how the weld puddle burns through the open-air gap and doesn't keep on going, or droop as you say even more.  Is the root pass laid in at a 'just wide enough gap between each pipe section' so that with the proper electrode and technique the weld pool "freezes" through the bevel ends and washes onto the interior surfaces??  What makes the weld pool stop from going all the way to the far side of the pipe? Thinking the magic lies in the 6010 chemistry and welder expertise.Never welded pipe and/or pups, but recently laid down some 1/8" 6011s on 1/4" HRS in 1G and 2F positions.  Still need lots of practice!
Reply:I guess down here it is different.