Sticking sticks

admin

Good Evening All;I am a new, old welder...  I welded in high school, but that has been about 40 years ago (electricity had just been invented I think)!  I decided that I wanted to get back into hobby welding so I got a Thermal Arc Fabircator 181 unit.  I have been making miles and miles of beads as practice. My problem/question is about Hobart 7018 sticks.  I have a real problem with restarting the sticks.  I can strike an arc with no problem with a fresh stick, but when I move to the next weld, I have a heck of a time re-striking the arc.  I don't have the same problems when I use Lincoln stick... just Hobarts.I am using 1/8 sticks at around 120-140 amps DCEP and have tried changing the arc force anywhere from 3 to 7 ( I must admit that I really don't see much difference when changing the arc force, but that's another question).  I  really have tap/scratch the stick hard to get it to restart and then the rod will sometimes stick to the metal.  The beads look pretty good, once I get it restarted.Is there something I can do to the stick to prepare it for re-striking?  Why is this just a problem with Hobarts and not Lincolns?  What could I be doing wrong?Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!ThanksJeffrey Noob welder Thermal Arc Fabricator 181i w/   - Tweeco SG160 Spool Gun   - SSC C850-0825 pedal
Reply:Originally Posted by jlyoungGood Evening All;I am a new, old welder...  I welded in high school, but that has been about 40 years ago (electricity had just been invented I think)!  I decided that I wanted to get back into hobby welding so I got a Thermal Arc Fabircator 181 unit.  I have been making miles and miles of beads as practice. My problem/question is about Hobart 7018 sticks.  I have a real problem with restarting the sticks.  I can strike an arc with no problem with a fresh stick, but when I move to the next weld, I have a heck of a time re-striking the arc.  I don't have the same problems when I use Lincoln stick... just Hobarts.I am using 1/8 sticks at around 120-140 amps DCEP and have tried changing the arc force anywhere from 3 to 7 ( I must admit that I really don't see much difference when changing the arc force, but that's another question).  I  really have tap/scratch the stick hard to get it to restart and then the rod will sometimes stick to the metal.  The beads look pretty good, once I get it restarted.Is there something I can do to the stick to prepare it for re-striking?  Why is this just a problem with Hobarts and not Lincolns?  What could I be doing wrong?Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!Thanks
Reply:Before you attempt to restrike an arc with your partly consumed rod, take your thumb and finger and break off the flux on the end of the rod. 7018 will often burn up into the flux coating when you stop welding. Crack off the extruded flux on the end of the rod and the center electrode section has a better chance of making contact with the base metal thus making it easier to restrike an arc with a partly cumsumed rod.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeBefore you attempt to restrike an arc with your partly consumed rod, take your thumb and finger and break off the flux on the end of the rod. 7018 will often burn up into the flux coating when you stop welding. Crack off the extruded flux on the end of the rod and the center electrode section has a better chance of making contact with the base metal thus making it easier to restrike an arc with a partly cumsumed rod.
Reply:Thanks everyone!  I'll give it a try tomorrow, but it makes complete sense.   And I did find a vid on youtube, like joe saidJeffrey Noob welder Thermal Arc Fabricator 181i w/   - Tweeco SG160 Spool Gun   - SSC C850-0825 pedal
Reply:If you are welding in an area with a rough concrete floor, just reach down and drag the tip of the electrode across the concrete as if you were striking a match.  That will break the "glass" flux off the end and you will be good to go.
Reply:Just a quick tap on a concrete floor does it for me."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:If I'm having trouble, I tap 'em on anything hard nearby that ain't grounded.  Concrete, chipping hammer, scrap,  a rock....My name's not Jim....
Reply:Adjust the arc force feature 7018 should be easy to relightLincoln Power Arc 4000 Thermal Arc Fabricator 252 iThermal arc 186Thermal Arc 26 tigTweeko 200 amp spool gunHobart AirForce 400WP-17V-12R
Reply:Originally Posted by noriteJust a quick tap on a concrete floor does it for me.
Reply:Lanse aka Chucke2009 has a good video about the re strike of 7018.  I usually just bang it against something hard, but sometimes I try the WHIP technique.  Lincoln Weldanpower AC/DCLincoln LN-25Miller WC-115a Miller Spoolmatic 30aCheck out my youtube TV Channel
Reply:Originally Posted by PlowboyLanse aka Chucke2009 has a good video about the re strike of 7018.  I usually just bang it against something hard, but sometimes I try the WHIP technique.  ]
Reply:Originally Posted by 12345678910I keep a brick on the table for it.It won't spark on you since it's insulated.Breaking it off with your finger and thumb?Sounds like a good way to get burned.
Reply:Originally Posted by assassin_worksAdjust the arc force feature 7018 should be easy to relight
Reply:I use LINCOLN 7018 and have hard restarts. I was using a piece of 2x4 or chipping hammer to break flux but its been mentioned to just disconnect your work clamp, bust the flux then reconnect. My arc force is set to half way but I will have to try the increase force.Last edited by Insaneride; 08-09-2013 at 10:56 AM.
Reply:I dont remember but ill check and get back to you. AsapLincoln Power Arc 4000 Thermal Arc Fabricator 252 iThermal arc 186Thermal Arc 26 tigTweeko 200 amp spool gunHobart AirForce 400WP-17V-12R
Reply:Sorry it is the hot start feature 150% + will make my 5/32 7018 relight as if they were newLincoln Power Arc 4000 Thermal Arc Fabricator 252 iThermal arc 186Thermal Arc 26 tigTweeko 200 amp spool gunHobart AirForce 400WP-17V-12R
Reply:Originally Posted by 12345678910Breaking it off with your finger and thumb?Sounds like a good way to get burned.
Reply:Originally Posted by joshuabardwellWell, number one, it's implicit to me that you're wearing gloves when you do this, but maybe we shouldn't rely on that when safety is concerned. But number two, the worst thing that's going to happen is you're going to feel a little tingle, and only that if you are kneeling on wet ground or something like that. There's no way an arc is going to start between the stinger and your skin. Way too much resistance.
Reply:I just drag it a few times across a piece of scrap or concrete or something, quickly.-RuarkLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldIf you are welding in an area with a rough concrete floor, just reach down and drag the tip of the electrode across the concrete as if you were striking a match.  That will break the "glass" flux off the end and you will be good to go.
Reply:Originally Posted by DanD78I also just pinch the end off before restriking.  With gloves on.  I had an old welder that could run the high freq. on DC.  Just start the arc and go.  Some times you would get a tingle when changing rods if you were wet.Dan
Reply:I just knock it against anything nearby, now I'm in the habit of doing that with all my electrodes when re-starting.  If it sticks (did a lot when I was learning lol) and the end gets all burned and nasty and unusable, I take a pair of tin snips or if I'm in the school shop the Beverly shear and just chop off the end.  Saves a few cents over grabbing a new rodLincoln AC-225 TombstoneAirco 800 Torch w/ 2-stage regs
Reply:This is message board gold. A well thought out and explained question, followed by a series of good answers. All newbs should read this. Great job by all.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldIf you are welding in an area with a rough concrete floor, just reach down and drag the tip of the electrode across the concrete as if you were striking a match.  That will break the "glass" flux off the end and you will be good to go.Originally Posted by AppalachianThis is message board gold. A well thought out and explained question, followed by a series of good answers. All newbs should read this. Great job by all.