110v Stick Inverter Question

admin

I'm new to welding, and recently purchased a Forney AT-100 inverter, which has mostly positive reviews. Please excuse my questions, but I'm new to all this stuff.I started practicing using 3/32" E6013, which works fairly well considering my limited skills. Fairly easy to strike an arc, and the Forney has plenty of power to melt it. (worked well from 60 amps though 100)Next I moved to some 1/8" E6011, which was MUCH harder to strike an arc with, but burned Ok once it was lit. (welder set at it's 100A max output)Next I tried some 3/32 E7018. (welder set again at 100A) This rod was constantly sticking; very hard to start the arc. Once it started, though it produced the best looking bead of the 3. I know that striking an arc is something that takes lots of practice, but my question is this: All things being equal, would a 220v inverter strike an arc easier than a 110v model?  I like the flexibility of the 110v machine, but don't like fighting this hard to strike an arc, and am thinking maybe I should upgrade to a 220v model instead.  (The additional current capacity would also be nice.)Comments?
Reply:Originally Posted by KKempenAll things being equal, would a 220v inverter strike an arc easier than a 110v model?
Reply:I had a thermal arc 95s which is similar to your machine in that it is a 95 amp output 110v machine. It worked great with 6013, 6011 would burn if you kept the rod in the puddle and didn't whip. The 7018 was very touchy. It stuck alot and was generally a pain unless I was spot on with technique and then even it was a pain. I generally only use 7018 and this frustrated me. It also didn't burn the rod quite as hot as I would have liked. I sold it and bought a Thermal arc 161stl with the variable voltage control and on 110v at 80 amps it burns 7018 ten times better and will run 6010 or 6011 like butter. The machine is twice as expensive however. I can run up to 110 amps before popping a 20 amp breaker on 110v with it and am able to run 1/8" rods for about 6" of bead before the breaker trips also. On 220v It doesn't weld any different but does have way more power up top for bigger rods. Most of the little 110v only invertors seem to run this way where they don't have the voltage to run along.Millermatic 252Lincoln 175 plusTA 185tswTA 161stlhypertherm pmax 45Victor torchHenrob torchAn S10 for each day of the week
Reply:This is a follow-up to my original post about the 110v Forney welder.  I ended up talking to Forney about my concerns with the AT-100.  After hearing my description of the problems, they suspected that the unit was defective.  As it turns out, they're dropping this model from their line-up.  They wouldn't come out and say anything specifically, but I get the impression they've had issues with the AT-100.I ended up ordering a no-name 110/220v 200A inverter from a Chinese company, and received it today.  I haven't tried it yet on 220v, but on 110v, it welds beautifully!  Much much better than the Forney ever did.  It's very easy to strike an arc using the same 7018 rods that I had so much trouble with before.  I haven't put an amprobe on the power line yet, but it seems to be drawing fewer amps from the 110v line as well (never tripped a breaker once).  The other thing that impresses me is that even when I drop the current down to 50 amps and lower, the arc remains very easy to strike.  Tomorrow, I'll pick up a 220v plug so that I can try it on the higher voltage, but it works amazingly well on 110.  I'm really glad I decided to try a different inverter.  Night and day difference!
Reply:I have also a Forney AT100, which I use for small reparation when 220V is not available and small fabrication on thin gauge. I paid it 120 USD but I wouldn't paid it 250 USD...At 250 it's better to buy a 130-150 amp chinese inverter!. Simply the 80-100amps welders have not enough power to start a 7018 as the inverter circuitry is simply too small...But the AT100 is a good little machine within its limitations: 1/16 and 3/32 6013.I use also 3/32 309L16 as this SS alloy can weld practicably any soft steel, and a lot of of SS alloys with little amps with good strength, has no spatter and the welds are very beautiful (some people believe it's TIG...). The flux is almost self cleaning. Very useful when welding on galvanized; no grinding at all, very small HAZ so the anticorrosion protection is easy. Con: the price. But it's worth for the results.The 317 is also good and used extensively in European shipyards for some "delicate" welds.Kkempen: "They wouldn't come out and say anything specifically, but I get the impression they've had issues with the AT-100." I do agree with you, and that explains why a big stock has been sold at so low price. At 120 bucks the risk is small so I bought it.May I know where you got the Chinese inverter. I'm looking also for a 110-220 volts inverter. It's impossible to find anything in Mexico at decent price. And I'm fed up of the bulky gas cylinder (35 pounds) of my Mig (50 pounds...more to carry) or of the spatter of the flux core wire... A 10-20 pounds inverter able to work with any current between 100 and 240 volts is a dream for the reparation man...Last edited by Don Pablo; 02-25-2011 at 12:10 AM.
Reply:Here is a link for a new dual voltage inverter just realesed from Longetivity for $199 (I have no affiliation nor have I ever used one).  I did ask Longetivity for some spec info and was told 100 amps on 110 volts and 140 amps on 220 volts.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=50819
Reply:Don: The Chinese welder that I bought can be seen here:http://www.aliexpress.com/product-gs...olesalers.htmlThe unit I received was not exactly as shown in the picture, but has the same specs. It's a bit risky buying this kind of thing direct from China, so I won't suggest that anyone else do it. It welds great, but who knows how it will last. That new Longevity unit looks like a very good value too!
Reply:Thanks rankrank1 I've seen the docs and the thread: at $199 and around 20 lbs, sounds pretty interesting. It's maybe that I was looking for.
Reply:Thanks Kkempen. Effectively I won't buy anything in China, not because of the Chinese guys, but because of the big problems (price and delays) of shipping from China to Mexico and the harsh clearing of the Mexican customs. At 60% it will be stolen, and if it arrives after a 5 weeks delay, at 90% the welder will be broken and the packaging damaged by the customs...I have seen too many horror stories.So I buy in the States with shipping to my customs broker at Laredo, who clears smoothly the Mex customs, and reship insured in Mexico, so nobody is interested to steal it: just a domestic shipping...Ok it's pretty hard to explain to most US shops that a Mex guy pays with Paypal or bank draft, wants a shipping to Laredo Texas to a customs broker, and needs a commercial invoice billed to a Mexican customer...Generally after 2 hours at the phone and 6 Emails, they do understand...Last edited by Don Pablo; 02-26-2011 at 02:48 AM.