at college now about to take my 6G test help please !!!

admin

im about to take my 6G test tonight i can get good fill from about 7o'clock to 4o'clock then the build flattens out on me .1/8 land gap set to fit electrode 6 inch pipe 6010 fill running from about 63 amps to 68 after that my key hole opens to much any thing below rod sticks . dig set to 50 using a miller maxstar 200 .
Reply:check out weldingtipsandtricks on youtube, is doing a 6G weld test and showing how to do it =) hope that helps.
Reply:Originally Posted by Power of Bluecheck out weldingtipsandtricks on youtube, is doing a 6G weld test and showing how to do it =) hope that helps.
Reply:today i ran around 80 amps ran a little faster but i got build were i didn't before and a little heavy were i was fine .... i think i got this now i hope so ill let you know monday night ill get pictures as well .so that is what dig dose what should i set it to ? and 1/8 6010 rod newfie
Reply:set your dig on max for 6010 roots, that's what the dig is for.
Reply:Here are some pictures of a root I ran,  I ran most of the pipe with 7018 but never mind that.  The part that is ran with 7018 is smooth.  The other portion I ran with 6011,  this is what you are striving for with 6010...I had about a 1/8 gap and 3/32 land...  id prefer a 1/8 and 1/8 but this pipe was setup for 7018 root,  when you get used to running roots variations in fit up will not be as detrimental as it is while you learn....  The Ranger was set in pipe mode, arc force on +9 and amps at 80...A lot of people run roots and run hot and have a huge keyhole and have to fight it around the pipe leaving rough root inside.  My advice run enough heat to drag your root in you should not be whipping to control the keyhole size,  the whip is just to maintain a flat face on the outside of the weld (no wagon tracks).  Run enough heat to drag your root and a very small whip to flatten the face...When on bottom of the pipe you are going to want to pause a little longer and shove the rod in a little more,  as you go vertical you will find you need to move a little faster, and not shove in as much.  Once on top you will be moving a little faster than in the vertical or overhead.   The speed variation isn't huge but does make a difference... Attached ImagesLast edited by Newfie_1986; 08-17-2013 at 05:47 PM.Journeyman / Red Seal Welder (What a useless test)Miller CST 280Miller XMT 350Miller 12vs XtremeEvolution Evo 28 mag drillEvolution 380 Dry Cut saw
Reply:Originally Posted by Newfie_1986Here are some pictures of a root I ran,  I ran most of the pipe with 7018 but never mind that.  The part that is ran with 7018 is smooth.  The other portion I ran with 6011,  this is what you are striving for with 6010...I had about a 1/8 gap and 3/32 land...  id prefer a 1/8 and 1/8 but this pipe was setup for 7018 root,  when you get used to running roots variations in fit up will not be as detrimental as it is while you learn....  The Ranger was set in pipe mode, arc force on +9 and amps at 80...A lot of people run roots and run hot and have a huge keyhole and have to fight it around the pipe leaving rough root inside.  My advice run enough heat to drag your root in you should not be whipping to control the keyhole size,  the whip is just to maintain a flat face on the outside of the weld (no wagon tracks).  Run enough heat to drag your root and a very small whip to flatten the face...When on bottom of the pipe you are going to want to pause a little longer and shove the rod in a little more,  as you go vertical you will find you need to move a little faster, and not shove in as much.  Once on top you will be moving a little faster than in the vertical or overhead.   The speed variation isn't huge but does make a difference...
Reply:Originally Posted by tylersloanyes i noticed how i had to pause on the overhead part and the sides i had to move faster yesterday i would turn up the heat on the overhead and turn it down on the other parts .it turned out better but i will try what every one here said to do turn the dig all the way up set my amps to 63 - 65 seems like the key hole is perfect on those amps and make sure i have a 1/8 gap and 1/8 land all the way around in the last week i have made about 20 root passes in 6G they are getting better and better but my wrist hurt from grinding thank god i got 2 days off lol .
Reply:Lets see some pictures....  Pictures of :-  Pipe coupons with bevel and landing before tacking  (this is to ensure consistent land all the way around)-  Pipe Coupons tacked  (to be sure you are fitting up with a consistent gap)- Lastly a few shots inside the pipe after your root is in...One of the big problems I had starting out and still have is keeping my fit up consistent.  I hate fitting rather be welding.  But welding is all in the fit up..Journeyman / Red Seal Welder (What a useless test)Miller CST 280Miller XMT 350Miller 12vs XtremeEvolution Evo 28 mag drillEvolution 380 Dry Cut saw
Reply:Expect to fail a few tests. Swallow your pride. Learn from your mistakes.  If you pass more power to you but if your asking on here it doesn't look too good. Good luck
Reply:UPDATE !!!!!!!! PASSED 1 so far got 2 more to go i cranked the dig to about 75 the root just burnt right in i was like holy $^&% i got a big head tonight guys thank you so much for the help
Reply:Huge congratulations to you!!!
Reply:Figured with a little guidance you would do alright.     Most schools don't teach much when it comes to welding.  Just set you up on a machine and get you welding is all they do.  When I did my initial training I was told to not touch the DIG/Arc Force knob.   Have been told this by other instructors as well.  I guess most of them do not know what it does.   Good job and best of luck on the other 2 tests.  Are they all stick as well or ?Journeyman / Red Seal Welder (What a useless test)Miller CST 280Miller XMT 350Miller 12vs XtremeEvolution Evo 28 mag drillEvolution 380 Dry Cut saw
Reply:yes all stick on these i got to pass them on TIG also later onthey also said not to touch the dig because most machines don't have them they didn't even explain what it was for the guys on here had to tell meLast edited by tylersloan; 08-20-2013 at 05:30 PM.
Reply:The machines that don't have dig typically have a more aggressive arc to keep the rod lit..   Take for example a Miller Dialarc,  it doesn't have a dig or arc force function but it has an aggressive arc so that tends to compensate...  Better more high end machines have dig/arc force and to be quite honest you are better off learning the hows and whys of the dig function now while you are in school than get out on a job on a sticky machine and not know what knob to turn.....Journeyman / Red Seal Welder (What a useless test)Miller CST 280Miller XMT 350Miller 12vs XtremeEvolution Evo 28 mag drillEvolution 380 Dry Cut saw
Reply:thanks ill take pictures tonight and post them up hope i can get the other 2 done in 5 hours but im not rushing it
Reply:Originally Posted by Newfie_1986Figured with a little guidance you would do alright.     Most schools don't teach much when it comes to welding.  Just set you up on a machine and get you welding is all they do.  When I did my initial training I was told to not touch the DIG/Arc Force knob.   Have been told this by other instructors as well.  I guess most of them do not know what it does.   Good job and best of luck on the other 2 tests.  Are they all stick as well or ?