Air compressor piping options

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I have just bought an air compressor. 5.5 HP was the largest I knew I could comfortably run in my new workshop that I'm renting so that's what I got.The workshop is about 60x30ft and I want to run a pipe around it in a ring and put in maybe 4 drop legs.What's your opinion on piping material? I'm thinking black iron pipe or perhaps copper - 3/4" or so. Copper seems easier (I have O/A torch so I can easily braze or solder) but also twice the price here. Iron pipe seems like more work but cheaper. I also have to entertain the idea that I someday need to remove the piping. And that someday may show up faster than I think. Iron pipe could be easily reused to build stuff, copper maybe not so much. I have no experience as this is my first air compressor.What do you guys think? Thanks,Pete
Reply:If you think it may have to come apart soon use unions in appropriate places for easy disassembly. On your drops use a tee to draw air w/ a 6" to 8" nipple below the tee w/ a drain valve on the bottom of nipple to get rid of condensation. I use a regulator w/ a male and female quick connects to get regulated air when/where needed. If you plan to spray paint do the same w/ a filter/drier and use a dedicated hose for painting. I'm sure others will have more suggestions.                                   HTH,                                          MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I used to work for Western Electric, which back in the day was considered a top manufacturer, and not one to scrimp on costs.   They used black iron pipe, with a filter/oiler at the point of use.  In that shop, the air wire wrap guns whirred continuously, so air was a critical item.  They clearly could have used copper pipe, but did not deem it necessary.   I went with 3/4 inch black iron for my shop.   One thing to keep in mind, if the compressor is near the air tool, the air will not have time in the air line to cool down before you use it, so would have more moisture in it.  I put in 20 feet of "extra" pipe to help pull out some of the moisture before the first air drop.   Obviously you need to slope the lines and put in drains.  I live in a dry climate, so have not invested in a refrigerated air dryer, I just have a filter for the plasma cutter and for using paint guns.You could of course reuse copper lines, but perhaps more trouble to tear down then threaded pipe.Enjoy your new shop.  I wish I had one that large.RichardSculptures in copper and other metalshttp://www.fergusonsculpture.comSyncrowave 200 Millermatic 211Readywelder spoolgunHypertherm 600 plasma cutterThermal Arc GMS300 Victor OA torchHomemade Blacksmith propane forge
Reply:Unless you are skilled at threading pipe and have excellent dies probably better to go with copper and solder the joints so you don't get any leaks.Grade the pipe uphill going away from the compressor each way so water drains back to the tank and can be drained there.  Make your taps with tees pointing up then 90 out from the wall to your coupler.  That keeps any water from being picked up by your tap and sent along your hose to your tool.Don't use plastic pipe for compressed air lines.My filters plug into the quick couplers for tools which need them.  I don't usually use lubricators at the coupler.  Usually I just put a couple of drops in the tool if it needs oil.  This keeps air hoses uncontaminated for painting, plasma cutter etc."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:Iron or galvanize, keeps things removable, teflon tape the connections. Angle the run back towards the compressor, keeps the water running away for the drops. 3/4 is a good choice, plum a water trap at each drop. Rubber hose from the compressor too the hard pipe that is probably obvious, just throwing that out.You will want a regulator, cause most tools run @ 90 psi, the regulator will also allow you to control the speed of the tools. Use 3/8 for the tool line too the hard line, pvc sucks do not waste your $$. Also do yourself a favor and use 3/8 or 1/2in  for the quick disconnects, stay away from the 1/4 stuff, knocks the hell out of the performance of the tools, to restrictive.Could leave the compressor on the pallet, change the drain pet c*o*c*k* they do not last, there is a good manual drain that can be had for about 15 bucks. You can find that at grangers or a truck stop, it is a valve with a lanyard that is used to dump the water from the air brake storage tank. Then there are auto drains and the best I ran across yet is something called the  moisture minder, but that is a 70 $$ valve and you might want to keep that as an option for the future.Last but no least buy good air tools, cause you will quickly replace the HF stuff, that not only wears out fast, makes a lot of noise and not very torquey, powerful. IR stuff is a good brand, quite compared to HF and powerful. Just buy the tools as you have a need that way you do not end up with stuff you wont use.This should give you a start and lots to think about.GregThe word filter is set at kindergardenMagazines have issues, everything else has problems
Reply:Might be an obvious answer but why not plastic PVC?
Reply:Originally Posted by jlamesMight be an obvious answer but why not plastic PVC?
Reply:Originally Posted by jlamesMight be an obvious answer but why not plastic PVC?
Reply:Well, see, now that's why I love this place. Brilliant minds and logical answers! Thanks.
Reply:PEX kicks @$$ for airline plumbing. In a welding shop I would keep it up high and then run black steel down anywhere you want a fitting on the wall. Or you can just run drops mounted to the ceiling. It is pretty cheap but the big gain is that you can run it really fast and if you ever want to add a T or make a change it is fast and easy.Lincoln precision TIG 275Millermatic 140 MIG
Reply:I saw their page. Do they have PEX-to-standard pneumatic terminals?
Reply:PEX plumbs into water pipe connections, so there should be no problem connecting it to you "Quick-Disconnects".
Reply:Tptools.com has some different kit options that may be helpful for ideas, they seem a little expensive I'd check out their kits and other options and compare prices locally. Attached ImagesMillermatic 135Craftsman 7 Hp 80 Gallon           2 stage compressor
Reply:Yeah, most pneumaitc fittings are going to be NPT which is also primarily what PEX will use.Lincoln precision TIG 275Millermatic 140 MIG
Reply:Originally Posted by Pete.S.I have no experience as this is my first air compressor.What do you guys think? Thanks,Pete
Reply:Originally Posted by InsanerideA 50 foot hose . Do you have any tools yet? All that fancy piping isnt much good without plenty of air tools. Also, are you going to disconnect your tool every time you have to move to a different end of your shop? Get a 50 footer and be done.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauThis would be the way to go, if you may need to move sometime soon. Wait till you have a dedicated shop of your very own before running the hard lines in the shop. Get 3/8 " ID hose, maybe two or three of them, and set the compressor near the middle of the shop for now. I would use black iron pipe to run permanent lines though. Contrary to what was posted above, it does not take much "skill" to thread pipe. Heck, even plumbers can do that! All you need is a good set of pipe dies, and a pipe vise along with something to cut the pipe to length.
Reply:Originally Posted by 70ChallengerTptools.com has some different kit options that may be helpful for ideas, they seem a little expensive I'd check out their kits and other options and compare prices locally.
Reply:Originally Posted by InsanerideA 50 foot hose . Do you have any tools yet? All that fancy piping isnt much good without plenty of air tools. Also, are you going to disconnect your tool every time you have to move to a different end of your shop? Get a 50 footer and be done.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauThis would be the way to go, if you may need to move sometime soon. Wait till you have a dedicated shop of your very own before running the hard lines in the shop. Get 3/8 " ID hose, maybe two or three of them, and set the compressor near the middle of the shop for now. I would use black iron pipe to run permanent lines though. Contrary to what was posted above, it does not take much "skill" to thread pipe. Heck, even plumbers can do that! All you need is a good set of pipe dies, and a pipe vise along with something to cut the pipe to length.
Reply:Originally Posted by Pete.S.I'd like to run pipe to get the condensation out of the system. And I have to run a hose a lot longer than 50ft because the compressor goes in one corner. Corner to corner is about 70 ft and then you need some hose to work with as well. So in total it's going to be more like 90-100 ft of hose.Anyway I don't mind having to install the pipe and then remove it when I decide to move. At least not if I can reuse the piping.
Reply:Lowes lists 3/4" 10 foot pipe already threaded for 13 bucks so for probably around $200$ or so Depending on how many drops and fittings you could assemble a system that is easy to disassemble, reconfigure, and relocate when you're ready. They have several different lengths available that are already threaded no need for any threading equipment.  right now I'm using 3/4" stainless steel. I can disassemble it easily and clean it if need be. Right now I'm only running about 20 feet of piping and when I'm ready to expand another 60 feet I'll go with black pipe Unless I come across more excess stainless somewhere. Yes you have to get the air cool to be able to remove the moisture effectively. I use the drain on the bottom of the tank, the bottom of the inlet leg that is a 30" drop from the inlet connection and runs up 7 feet, and at the bottom of the filter before the air hose seems to do a pretty good job. Attached ImagesMillermatic 135Craftsman 7 Hp 80 Gallon           2 stage compressor
Reply:I've used 3/4" copper for years here in the Arizona heat with no problems.  Keep the compressor as far away as you can for moisture, or put in a dryer of some sort.  Moisture kills air tools.---No good deed goes unpunished---
Reply:As you have seen from the replies regarding plumbing air lines, its like ice cream everyone has their own favorite flavor.   If your looking for a cheap but effective way to reduce moisture from the system no matter how you plumb it I would recommend adding what we called a "drive shaft." In the old days car painters ( I painted cars to help put myself through school) would use an old drive shaft tapping a valve top and bottom for air to pass through to the speed the condensation process. Today, a piece of large pipe can be placed between the compressor and the start of your run to help remove moisture. The air from the tank comes in at the bottom and leaves via the top using the mass of the pipe to help condense the moisture.  I have one on my system here in Houston which is a very humid climate and it works well. Combine that with a simple trap run which is a reversing back and forth run of pipe and you may be able to remove all of the moisture. Another addition can be a home made desiccant dryer. This place while not cheap is a source for beads. http://www.ecompressedair.com/desiccant/silica-gel.aspx  I split the cost with a few buddies when we ordered a container.  The beads can be dried and reused when saturated.  Just some additional ideas to ponder.  Attached ImagesLincoln 180 MigLincoln 225 TigHypertherm 65My Welding Table BuildVideo describing the Table
Reply:Originally Posted by Pete.S.I'd like to run pipe to get the condensation out of the system. And I have to run a hose a lot longer than 50ft because the compressor goes in one corner. Corner to corner is about 70 ft and then you need some hose to work with as well. So in total it's going to be more like 90-100 ft of hose.Anyway I don't mind having to install the pipe and then remove it when I decide to move. At least not if I can reuse the piping.jlames: in case you didnt get it,  pvc for air is like welding a pintle hook on a KIA bumper using a 11ovolt FCAW on this site.  Believe me, its been done tho. Look up pressures for PVC and you will find THAT its been done.
Reply:Pete.sget at least two die grinders.  One with cutoff or ?  and another with carbide or? Also, an air tip is good for drying armpits , sweattybalz and dusty coveralls and stuf.
Reply:Originally Posted by Insaneridejlames: in case you didnt get it,  pvc for air is like welding a pintle hook on a KIA bumper using a 11ovolt FCAW on this site.  Believe me, its been done tho. Look up pressures for PVC and you will find THAT its been done.
Reply:NO, I've learned a while ago to take the word of experience and you all have never steered me wrong. I'm lying out the shop right now (well, not RIGHT now but this week) and I'm figuring doing it right with copper. The shop's 60X40 with half metal working and the other half woodworking and leather repair stuff like an HD stitcher and cutting table for saddle and tack repair and all of it needs air. So, at 56, it's our last homestead so I'd like to do it right. Joyce and I are pretty much homebodies who enjoy our horses and tinkering so it's do it right or don't do it at all. I just never thought about the high pressures and inherent brittleness factor of PVC and even ABS..