bump welding anodized

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I've been googleing welding anodized. Out of all the information I have not found a single video of bump welding. Can someone explain how you bump weld anodized aluminum, or better yet make a video. I've welded and done tower repairs. I always heat up where I start and sit there for a second and try to let the ac do its cleaning and then I just go like welding plain aluminum, however I always notice there is porosity in my weld. Now I know shops that constantly weld anodized don't waste time  grinding the anodize off so how is it done?
Reply:There are a few threads on here that address bump welding. Here is one http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...t=bump+welding there are more just use the search tool
Reply:Doest really explain exactly how to do it. Blast it quickly, the dip the rod and then make a second pass? Is it possible to just do it with one pass? Do I blast it the dip, and then kill the arc move over and do the process again, or do I just make the arc cold and slide over and ramp up the amperage again?
Reply:Sundown would be the person here who could explain it the best, but he hasn't been around lately. I believe you use an on/off button and blast it fast, dip and turn off the arc and repeat.SD coveres some of in in this thread.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=119881&page=2 Originally Posted by SundownIIIBump welding is not a difficult process to learn, if you're working one on one with someone who's really good at it.  It does take a lot of practice to "master".  It is a high energy, manual pulsing process which uses relatively high amps to "blast" the surface oxides (anodizing) away from the puddle.  The difficulty comes from the timing required.  Process dictates the use of a torch mounted on/off button.  Basically it's a on/puddle forms/dip filler/off/move repeat process.  Obviously there's a lot more to it (amps, balance, cup size, tungsten, duration, etc, etc., but just think of it as a manual pulse process where each on cycle blasts the oxides for one dip..
Reply:Did you try to email Mr Tig at www.weld.com and see if he will make a video. He usually does what people ask of him.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:No, ill send him an email. I've looked at youtube several time over the past couple months and amazed how many welding videos there are but not a single one of anodized welding.
Reply:I emailed him just now. So hopefully if a few others ask the same question it can get done which would be great to all of us.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Absolutly.
Reply:I got a response, that was pretty quick.Hi Paul,Thanks for the video request. We will be doing a video shoot in January and would be glad to add this into the schedule. In the meantime, here is a "tip" that hopefully can help you:Clear anodize is a real problem and the technique is crude, but effective. When welding thru clear anodize it is important to break thru the "crust" and with a whipping or "bumping" motion, thrust the oxide away from your weld puddle and immediately apply filler material.  This motion becomes repetitive and you will get a descent (not perfect) weld. Regardless of you expertise, there will be small black oxides within your weld.  This appearance is normal and there is not an additional technique that is necessary to remove it.Thanks,Mr. Tig
Reply:Oh Sundown would have a field day with that quote... I honestly don't think that "Mr. Tig" guy has a clue about bump welding alum..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleI got a response, that was pretty quick.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWOh Sundown would have a field day with that quote... I honestly don't think that "Mr. Tig" guy has a clue about bump welding alum.
Reply:I've used an on/off micro switch on my tig torches for years. I've never heard manual pulse refered to as "bump". I guess I'm a bumpin fool! I use it to do build ups on problem cast iron.http://www.facebook.com/LockhartMetalArthttp://www.facebook.com/pages/Grumpy...44306259043484
Reply:Maybe he is clueless, maybe he isn't. I'm going to give him the chance and lets see what his video is like before we come to any decisions.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonWhat Mr.Tig (Tim Swain- Weld.com) did not mention is that the bump is actually a restart of the arc every time you need to lift the aluminum oxide layer off, and add rod at the same time. Each bump so to speak is a burst of high frequency arc start, the same start cycle that ignites the AC arc in the first place, and the same sequence that starts a DC arc. Basically it is arc-on, arc off, with adding rod during the arc on.Mr Sundown went into this in great lengths on the Miller discussion forums.
Reply:So let me get this correct you make a 2 passes? The first one for penetration and the second for looks?
Reply:No just one pass..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by joseph_zlnskSo let me get this correct you make a 2 passes? The first one for penetration and the second for looks?
Reply:I have a 250 amp machine, I generally always use 1/8 red tungsten. I use a #6. Tig cup about 95% of the time. Kind of like a general purpose cup for me. I figured just one pass. That's all that I have been doing. Where I start I just sit there and let the piece start heating up/cleaning and then I start moving and dipping just like regular aluminum, but when I'm done I see all the little little black porosity in the weld, I guess the oxide that hasn't burnt away, I dont really get that nice stack of dimes look when doing anodized either. I emailed Jody Collier that runs weldingtipsandtricks.com but I haven't heard from him. Anyone that would be interested in making a video would be a big help to lots of people
Reply:I guess Mr. Tig and Jody Collier are never going to make a bump welding video. Anyone out there
Reply:Originally Posted by joseph_zlnskI have a 250 amp machine, I generally always use 1/8 red tungsten. I use a #6. Tig cup about 95% of the time. Kind of like a general purpose cup for me. I figured just one pass. That's all that I have been doing. Where I start I just sit there and let the piece start heating up/cleaning and then I start moving and dipping just like regular aluminum, but when I'm done I see all the little little black porosity in the weld, I guess the oxide that hasn't burnt away, I dont really get that nice stack of dimes look when doing anodized either. I emailed Jody Collier that runs weldingtipsandtricks.com but I haven't heard from him. Anyone that would be interested in making a video would be a big help to lots of people
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloYou will NEVER get a perfectly clean looking weld doing this. The anodize will flow radially; meaning the trailing end of the puddle will ALWAYS show some anodize residual. )
Reply:I did, sent him a message through his sight as well, he has responded to me in the past, but not for the anodized stuff, its been over a month now. I guess ill have to go practice some more on anodized.
Reply:Originally Posted by joseph_zlnskI did, sent him a message through his sight as well, he has responded to me in the past, but not for the anodized stuff, its been over a month now. I guess ill have to go practice some more on anodized.
Reply:I figured that's how people weld anodized in boat top shops, everyboat I've worked on I see all the origionaly welds are a dulled grey color and you can see the porosity in the weld from the anodizeOriginally Posted by joseph_zlnskI figured that's how people weld anodized in boat top shops, everyboat I've worked on I see all the origionaly welds are a dulled grey color and you can see the porosity in the weld from the anodize
Reply:Well I know shops that produce boat tops won't take the time to remove anodize they weld over it. It would be too time consuming to remove anodize from every joint that has to be welded. Plus if you over grind then you loose your corrosion resistance even more. I attempted it like I belive its done. Full blast dif the rod, and off the pedal instantly.
Reply:Here's the picture Attached Images
Reply:That's decent looking there. What are your settings? Which filler? The 4043 filler can not be anodized. Furthermore, when you weld on anodize, it comes out dirtier and does not flow quite as well as 5356 filler. I see a couple rough puddles, and it is fairly gray looking in the pic, which is why I mention this. Filler size matters; too small, and you can not throw enough in fast enough to wash the anodize out and get a good puddle down. Too thick a filler, and it can cool down the puddle and leave you with a smudge bead, or really high edges with lousy flow. If your welder can run 250A, then you can use a 1/8" filler with no problems. If you max out at 200, then stick to 3/32 filler. But for sure, best bet is to use 5356 for this welding.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:I set it at 240amps. My machine doesn't have changable settings so its what it is 65% intensity I belive, I used 1/8 inch 5356. I don't really like to use 4043
Reply:You are close; with a little more practice, you will have it very good!!!!And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Yea I've always been told 5356 reanodizes it.
Reply:Originally Posted by joseph_zlnskYea I've always been told 5356 reanodizes it.
Reply:Here is the video that was requested a while back... Apologies for taking so long with this one.Last edited by 7A749; 10-04-2013 at 06:51 PM.
Reply:Fantastic vid. It'd be nice to have someone make up a torch with a trigger for that technique.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeFantastic vid. It'd be nice to have someone make up a torch with a trigger for that technique.