3/16" plate on 110 v mig

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I read most of the sticky on 110 v mig and apologies if this topic (like most others) has been beaten to death.  I have a potential project this weekend (paying side job) and am always very cautious about the side jobs I take due to liability concerns.  I always ask myself and the customer "is there risk of life or limb?"  If so, I steer clear.  I am a hobbyist and have a full time job so I don't want to get in any situation where someone can get hurt or worse.  About the project.  I know trailers are a touchy subject on this forum and I understand why.  This particular customer has a 26' goose neck trailer with a dove tail.  He uses it to move a bobcat.  7k axels.  He is wanting to beef up the dove tail section.  I am torn for many reasons.  Is this the kind of job that I usually steer clear of?  Money is tight right now and is my empty wallet clouding my usually sound judgment?  Here is my other dilemma.  I am limited to a millermatic 140 and usually don't go above 1/8".  20 amp circuit.  I had some 3/16" coupons laying around and ran a few lap joints and wanted opinions on if fusion was obtained and any other thoughts on this matter.  For those of you that are familiar with dove tails, would 3/16" angle even "beef" up the dove tail?    No amount of money is worth someone getting hurt or worse.  So, here are the questions.  Did I achieve proper fusion on 3/16"?  Is 3/16" material actually going to make a difference on reinforcing the dove tail?  If this task can be done safely, then I can sure use the extra $$.  If not, there will be other jobs. Attached Images
Reply:More pics Attached Images
Reply:Question is "where" is the angle going ?Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Within the dovetail frame.  I'm also looking for suggestions on how to best beef it up if the job is taken.  My thought is to focus on the areas where the bobcat pulls onto the trailer and the corners.  The customer feels that the trailer builder skimped out as he neared the end.  I don't fancy myself a trailer expert by any means nor an engineer so any advice on weight/stress distribution is welcome.
Reply:Here's A solution Attached ImagesBubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Would you call these jack stands?  Seems to be a great idea to me.
Reply:Crap pic but if you look close it looks lie about a 3/8 by 2 flat bar about 18" long reinforcement where it drops off. That's what I'd do, along with the jacks. You don't have the machine for that but there's nothing at all wrong with bolts !Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by DomantoriWould you call these jack stands?  Seems to be a great idea to me.
Reply:Thanks burpee.  Can I be loaded too?  Did you mean 3/16" flats?  Not being a smart ***.  Just wanted to make sure I understand.  If so, can I weld that to the 1 1/4" pipe with my rig?
Reply:Originally Posted by DomantoriHere is my other dilemma. I am limited to a millermatic 140 and usually don't go above 1/8". 20 amp circuit. I had some 3/16" coupons laying around and ran a few lap joints and wanted opinions on if fusion was obtained and any other thoughts on this matter.
Reply:Originally Posted by DomantoriThanks burpee.  Can I be loaded too?  Did you mean 3/16" flats?  Not being a smart ***.  Just wanted to make sure I understand.  If so, can I weld that to the 1 1/4" pipe with my rig?
Reply:Hold the pipe to the frame by drilling it, put a grade five, 5/8" bolt through the back and weld it on both sides. Drill the bolt for a clevis pain and you're off to the races ( or bar).Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Thank you brother.
Reply:You're welcome. Many years/many beers/no fears. Your welds wont be mission critical. You're safe. Now do get a Tunderchicken AC/DC so you can tackle these jobs !Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:That weld is way to cold! With Mig you want to run really hot!Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by DomantoriI read most of the sticky on 110 v mig and apologies if this topic (like most others) has been beaten to death.  I have a potential project this weekend (paying side job) and am always very cautious about the side jobs I take due to liability concerns.  I always ask myself and the customer "is there risk of life or limb?"  If so, I steer clear.  I am a hobbyist and have a full time job so I don't want to get in any situation where someone can get hurt or worse.  About the project.  I know trailers are a touchy subject on this forum and I understand why.  This particular customer has a 26' goose neck trailer with a dove tail.  He uses it to move a bobcat.  7k axels.  He is wanting to beef up the dove tail section.  I am torn for many reasons.  Is this the kind of job that I usually steer clear of?  Money is tight right now and is my empty wallet clouding my usually sound judgment?  Here is my other dilemma.  I am limited to a millermatic 140 and usually don't go above 1/8".  20 amp circuit.  I had some 3/16" coupons laying around and ran a few lap joints and wanted opinions on if fusion was obtained and any other thoughts on this matter.  For those of you that are familiar with dove tails, would 3/16" angle even "beef" up the dove tail?    No amount of money is worth someone getting hurt or worse.  So, here are the questions.  Did I achieve proper fusion on 3/16"?  Is 3/16" material actually going to make a difference on reinforcing the dove tail?  If this task can be done safely, then I can sure use the extra $$.  If not, there will be other jobs.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPThat weld is way to cold! With Mig you want to run really hot!
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI understand the empty wallet dilemma, but you are outside the normal quality weld range of your mig with solid wire.3/16" material puts you in the 160-170 amp range in my opinion.Nice looking welds that have small amounts of penetration tend to snap off and make you look bad later.  You can get fooled by what you see in your helmet when that top corner is melting off really nice, it's the bottom plate that is the problem.Buy a used stick welder for couple hundred (or less) and it will pay back on your first couple side jobs Dave J.
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeYou're welcome. Many years/many beers/no fears. Your welds wont be mission critical. You're safe. Now do get a Tunderchicken AC/DC so you can tackle these jobs !
Reply:Originally Posted by DomantoriThanks Dave.  My father in law has an old Lincoln ac/dc buzz box but I don't have the juice to run it.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveMan those little Lincoln's run nice, are you sure you can't wire up a plug?Dave J.
Reply:After you get shocked a few times you get more careful and stop making mistakes You should learn though, I tend to wire something or move wires in the shop couple times a year.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:You can always do a little quick and dirty testing. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPYou can always do a little quick and dirty testing.
Reply:why not use flux core wire?tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/Originally Posted by DomantoriWhat should I be looking for?  Where should it break?
Reply:Well, edit to post.  I just called the potential customer and ran the idea of the " jack stand" idea by him.  He said he didn't want to do any more work than he has to (meaning getting out and putting on/taking off jack stands).  I explained to him I don't think 1/8" material will do anything to beef up the dovetail and explained my equipment limitations.  We decided it would be best for him to look elsewhere.  I would rather be honest about my limitations if it means nobody getting hurt.  But, this is good information for later for me.  Thanks all for your help.
Reply:Originally Posted by DomantoriIf these are in a fixed position, what happens when he loads up on uneven terrain?
Reply:Maybe one of the "experts" could clarify, but I've heard that flux core runs a little hotter than solid core. Might get better fusion using flux core since you're at the machine's limit. Just my $.02.Brian
Reply:Originally Posted by musickbcI've heard that flux core runs a little hotter than solid core. Might get better fusion using flux core since you're at the machine's limit.
Reply:Well, edit to post.  Just called the potential customer to run by the "jack stand" idea.  He said he doesn't want to have to do any more work than he has to.  Meaning, getting out and putting them on and taking them off.  I explained to him that I didn't think 1/8" material would do much to reinforce his dovetail and explained my equipment limitations.  We both agreed that it would probably be best if he looks elsewhere.  No hard feelings.  So, equipment limitations = lost $$.  But that's the way it goes.  I would rather be honest about my limitations rather than b.s. someone and get them or someone else hurt just to make a buck.Thanks all for your input.  Sorry if I wasted your time.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPRight down the middle of the weld. You can also see how much penetration you're getting by looking at the breaks.Here is one I did with Lincoln's L-56 wire.I tested other fillers as well, here are the results. 6013 broke with only 3-blows of a 4-pound hammer. 6011 = 8-blows.7014 = 10-blows.6010 5P-Plus = 10-blows.7018 cold never seen the inside of an oven = 18-blows.7018 right out of the oven = 23-blows.L-56 = 29-blows.
Reply:Buy a roll of fluxcore and try it out.Last edited by Broccoli1; 10-12-2013 at 01:49 PM.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:I would suggest sell your current machine and buy a machine that runs off 220v..   at minimum 180 amp unit, and I will go as far as to recommend a 210amp machine for a small home shop.. you could probably preheat it and use flux core and be ok..Last edited by brucer; 10-12-2013 at 08:46 PM.tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/