Lincoln SA 200 1989 Problem

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I have a SA 200 that is smoking black smoke from the exhaust pipe and also throwing out oil from a little pipe that comes out of the valve cover that is on the side of the engine. What could be wrong with the machine? Bad valve guides ? Attached Images
Reply:Black smoke: Running rich or restricted air intake.Blowing oil: Bad valve guides as you've stated or plum wore out (or stuck) rings resulting in excessive blow-by.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Crankcase overfilled with gasoline-diluted oil?1989? When did Lincoln finally run out of Continental "F" engines?
Reply:Thanks for the reply. If I would want to replace the valve guides, is there a way to do it without removing the engine ? Or is removing the engine a must ? The machine doesn't have a serial or code number. But I have heard that the number on the generator is the code number and it reads 7789. Is it true that the last two numbers are the year it was made ? It does have a continental f163 engine
Reply:No the engine does not have to be removed to change the valve guides if needed.  A suitable installation tool would need to be acquired or made to press/drive the new ones in to the proper depth to make it easiest.No the last two digits of the code# do not indicate the year of manufacture but a code# can indicate an approximate age of a unit.  I believe CEP and/or Fixalinc or ??? has a handle on code#s as they relate to approximate years made.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Thanks for the reply duaneb55. Another thing the machine is doing is blowing a cloud of white smoke at the beginning of every high idle. Like when I strike an arc and it high idles, it blows a cloud of smoke. Is white smoke oil being burnt?Thanks in advance
Reply:Light blue can look white.  Either oil or possibly coolant.  Have you run it long enough to know if it uses either?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Its using oil. Coolant is always filled. I used it for 4 hours and it marked full on the dipstick when I started. After the 4 hours it was half way between full and low on the dipstick. Is that like a quart?It has a minor leak on the front seal where the crank is at. Also the oil it is spitting out through the pipe at the valve cover on the side of the engine.
Reply:Sounds like it's time for a major overhaul 'cause that's a lot of oil usage for only 4hrs.  Have you checked cylinder compression or leak-down?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Fix the black smoke first.   Too much fuel for what ever reason.Once the fuel problem is fixed, change the oil and start again.  The oil burning may improve as in burn less.  Like said above, (HI Denrep  )  it could have gas in the oil.It will run a long time burning oil as long as  you keep it full.Excessive fuel could have caused the oil burning.Is this machine new to you?A quart every tank full is my limit for burning oil.  If you need to top up the oil before gas, its getting bad.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Hey Duane, what should the cylinder compression read?Thanks for replying. I just got this machine from a coworker. His dad put in new piston rings and bearing metals for crank and cam. But he didn't change the valve guides or anything else. Just rings, metals and gaskets.It is needing oil before it burns a whole tank of gas. I'm going to check cylinder compression to see how it is.To the smoking of the machine: Every time I first turn the machine on, it starts high idle and then it goes to low idle but then it wants to die. I have to grind or start welding immediately for like two or three minutes and then it stays running ok. I am thinking the carburetor is bad. It is running ok but the fumes smell very rich. I have a Zenith carb. I repaired the first one it originally had and still couldnt tune it with the screw for it not to be rich. So I bought a new one and it did the same thing. So i returned that one and got another new one and its still doing the same thing. Smells very rich and can not seem to tune it with the bolt on the top of the carburetor. This two past carburetors are brand new, not rebuilt. According to the person where I buy them from. Would you happen to know why it would be burning too rich? It has a oil bath filter. I changed the oil and its sucking very strong where it breaths in air so it is not clogged. I am regretting having bought that machine.All you guys help is greatly appreciated.
Reply:A "seasoned" engine should have 100-115psi of compression while cranking.  A fresh overhaul a bit higher.My questions regarding the overhaul would be:1) Did he put the rings in correctly?2) Did he install the correct size rings?3) Prepare the cylinder walls for proper break-in?On the carburetor adjustment, these carbs are just the opposite of what you would think.  You turn the idle mixture screw out to make it run leaner and in for richer.  What the screw is doing is controlling the amount of bleed air that enters the idle circuit.  Choke off the air bleed by turning the screw in and it sucks in more gas resulting in a run rich condition.All is not lost.  They can all be saved.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:First thing i would do pull plugs ,keep them in order  as you take them out this will tell you lot what each cylinder doing are they oily,dry? This should point to the problem cylinder if plug look wet then there something keep it from firing right then dumping raw fuel in crankcase (like denrep mention) i stop using champion plug,auto lite,,  only plug i been using denso!! Brand could be bad plug not firing hot, mag wire  not connected on plug or in mag housing ,or mag that need tune up! My newest red face project the mag would fire the plug  while they out ,but screw them in cylinder it would not fire ,switch to hot mag she fired up did"nt know it but one plug wire was off and running on three cylinder,i think that excess crank pressure are from valve not adjusted right, blow oil thru your front seal plus your crankcase would point to valve adjusted to tight keeping valve hair to open letting piston compression go into intake chamber this make oil blow out the vent breather,  so recheck you valve clearance,,intake set.012 and exhaust .020 (or like you and duane thinking need valve job)oil pressure on f-163 should be at 30 to 40 at hi idle if more than that , oil relief valve could be stuck, it screw into side block behind air filter ,its pocket bolt that contain steel ball and spring,take it apart and clean it while your doing valve readjusting since carb air filter will be out way,, keep us inform ,,charlie
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepCrankcase overfilled with gasoline-diluted oil?1989? When did Lincoln finally run out of Continental "F" engines?
Reply:And why can I not attach pix with taptalk anymore?Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingAnd why can I not attach pix with taptalk anymore?
Reply:This is what a plug from a properly tuned engine should look like, this is from my SA250.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Hey Duane, I checked cylinder compression. Pistons 1-3 are giving 110 psi only cylinder 4 shows 120. Is that a good sign that the rings were placed correctly? Also I tried adjusting the carburetor again. The rich smell goes away when I unscrew the bolt on top of the carb but the white smoke is there and is not running smoothly. Its not too rough idle but its not working like a clock. No more black smoke. Do you think I need to fine adjust the timing on the magneto, like twist it to the sides? Or that would not help? I did not want to twist it without askingHere are some pictures of the spark plugs. I did not have time to adjust valves or check their clearanceLet me know what you guys think Attached Images
Reply:What thickness of oil do you guys use on your gas welding machines ? Any particular brand you prefer ?
Reply:My machine is tight so I run 10-30, or 10-40....if your machine is worn out straight 30, or 40 weightDisclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Originally Posted by singlehandwelderPistons 1-3 are giving 110 psi only cylinder 4 shows 120.
Reply:Hey Duane thanks for the reply. I ordered checked the magneto on my machine and the cap and rotor looks really worn. I ordered a new one.Can you give me more info on removing and installing the valve guides without removing the engine? Things such as how to make the tool necessary to push the guides to their depth. If you have one can you send me a picture ?