4x6 Bandsaw Stand

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I have searched for plans to replace the piece of junk stand that comes with the $200 bandsaws (HF and other brands), and while I found a few, I did not find exactly what I wanted. I did steal a couple of ideas that I found. I have not decided to add a pump and coolant, but could easily add later.I bought my saw from a neighbor last year at his yard sale, but have had it in storage until I got my shop built. It is actually a pretty good saw, very accurate, and HEAVY. I don't know how the original stand held it up without collapsing.I will post the pictures and if any one is interested, I can add a materials list. But I just used what I had in my scrap pile. The only thing I bought was paint to sort of match the saw. The main base is 6"x2"x3/16" tube. Attached ImagesBurt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Next set of pictures.I used a Craftsman magnetic tray to catch and hold the filings.I will use the nested tubes for a support extension, but I have not completed the support ends yet. Attached ImagesLast edited by wb4rt; 10-02-2011 at 10:37 PM.Reason: add informationBurt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:nice."Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."Thomas Jefferson."When the people fear their government, there is tyranny when the government fears the people, there is liberty."Thomas Jefferson.
Reply:real niceMillermatic 251Century 180 migSpectrum 625 Syncrowave 250DX
Reply:I finished the extensions this week-end. I welded 1.5" 14g tube underneath, then used 1.25"  and 1" 14g tube inside. They nest pretty well and I just use them inserted without any connectors. They add about 4' of support. I can use both on the back side or one in back and one in front (haven't finished the single supports yet). I used 1/2" threaded rod, welded a 1/4" round stock for a handle, and used a square nut that fits perfect in the 1" tube. The cross piece is just a piece of conduit with 1/2" holes drilled on each end and fits loose. Remember, this is a scrap project! Quick and easy to use the extensions and raise or lower the cross piece to fit. Attached ImagesBurt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Looks great.Just curious. Do the extensions have legs that go to the floor? It doesn't look like it and I would worry that it would tip if not supported. The 'T' things on the bottom of the ACME threaded rod look to be an adjustment for the material support on the top and not 'adjustable feet' for the extension.Arvid
Reply:Hi, Arvid.You are correct, they only raise up and down to adjust the material height to the table. I don't think it would be a problem with tipping since the saw and stand weigh around 170 pounds and typically I'm cutting 2" or under stock. Your suggestion is a good one though to avoid bending the arms if I use some very long or heavy materials! It would simply be a matter of some longer threaded rod to go to the floor. I'll have to remember that for future use.Thanks!Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Back from the dead, I searched first. Any updates on your setup? How does it roll with those casters? I need to make a stand and it must roll decent from the garage to outside as I can't cut in the garage, no room to cut. How hard is it to clean a magnetic tray than just putting a regular pan there?
Reply:Originally Posted by BLACK DEATHHow hard is it to clean a magnetic tray than just putting a regular pan there?
Reply:I was feed up with mineoriginal  one day and put this together for 0 dollars, I held the rule hard and didn't spend even a $1.00 on it, which I regretted 1/2 through the wheels, oh well I like them now they turned out nice, and roll well on concrete, just alot more work making them than I figured on.
Reply:Awesome!  I'm going to have to steal this layout for mine soon, I rarely use it cuz the stand is so bad! With this saw..,.Change out the oil in the gearbox (there were a ton of shavings in mine) And upgrade to a good bimetal bladeBuild a new stand.  Add lubricationI have two of the four done.  Next up new stand!
Reply:I did not realize this thread had been resurrected. It rolls fine on the casters on concrete. You could use heavier ones or buy those wagon tires from Tractor Supply or Harbor Freight if you need to roll it outside.I am so much happier with my saw since I made this stand. The saws really are pretty good if you take the time to set them up, but those little pieces of bent sheet metal take all the joy out of using it.Now, I look for things to cut with it because it just is so much easier to roll out and so much more stable to use.Even if you have a small shop, look for one of these on CL or yard sale. People sell them pretty cheap and you will find a lot of uses for it.Last edited by wb4rt; 03-30-2012 at 08:15 AM.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:That's a real nice stand. I've always hated mine, just kinda' drag it around because the wheels go in different directions after about the first time trying to roll it. Now I have to add it to my to do list after seeing how nice you're stand came out.Century Powermate 100 ( my first welder)Lincoln Precision TIG 185