Drying rod?

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I have a large amount of 6011, 6013, and Excalibur 7018 rod that I'm sure had absorbed moisture. I don't have a rod oven. Can I successfully dry small quantities of the rod on my kitchen oven? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Yes. The 6011 and 6013 don't need to be dried.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Thanks for your reply. Several sights I've been go through procedures that aren't doable at my place. I'll try it. I was thinking trying to get the rod to say 140 - 160 degrees. Is that hot enough for say an hour of drying?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Read the thread at the link.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...-old-7018-rods
Reply:I think you need to have it around 400F, I don't remember for sure. I don't use a rod oven myself, if I need dry rods I will buy a 10LB can so they are fresh. I have about 50-60LBs of rod opened already for non-critical work.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Thanks for the link. It's what I've read early before posting on this sight. I was just hoping to do it more easily. I think I'll just play a little with my oven just for fun. Thanks for all the helpSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Rod ovens are 275 F steady as I recall.I'm a lazy, cheap ascz redneck. Stick the 7018's hard on a piece of scrap until they start to glow. Break them off and do the job as you work. Don't do it with a toy welder.LOLBubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...es-detail.aspx Found this, lots of info on it. Looks like it needs to be much hotter than I remember. Burpee, the ovens I have used were all adjustable.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:I've read this article recently. Thanks for the link and help. I think I can make an oven that will do the job. I already have a 4" and 6" x 1/2" pipe. I'm going to look into it first. May be a fun project. I also have a 6 cfm 2 stage vacuum pump. If you remove the oxygen and most of the moisture with the pump, then your temperatures do not have to be near as high to drive the moisture out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by papasmirfI've read this article recently. Thanks for the link and help. I think I can make an oven that will do the job. I already have a 4" and 6" x 1/2" pipe. I'm going to look into it first. May be a fun project. I also have a 6 cfm 2 stage vacuum pump. If you remove the oxygen and most of the moisture with the pump, then your temperatures do not have to be near as high to drive the moisture out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Yep, me too.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:I had a post on experimenting with vacuum packing rod with a AC recharging pump.  I still think it should work, but it really didn't seem to remove moisture. I think it would keep moisture out at full vacuum, but the group did not agree.  Plastic bag vacuum packers don't create nearly the amount of vacuum that a AC pump will.  A rod guard container hooked to manifold engine vacuum with a valve seemed like a good comprimise to me.
Reply:Pulling a deep vacuum to 500 microns (29.9"ex), will remove air from the container, but will also lower the boiling point of the moisture, therefore removing more moisture faster.  I'm working on it and will let you know soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:29.9"wc is what I meant.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:How would you get the moisture out of the vacuum chamber? Once the vacuum is lost, the moisture suspended in air is going to want to condense. I know this is kind of an experiment, but if the rod is going to be used for general projects around the house, I'd crank up the wife's oven and bake them for an hour or two as high as it would go and call it good.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:Originally Posted by RaptorDunerHow would you get the moisture out of the vacuum chamber? Once the vacuum is lost, the moisture suspended in air is going to want to condense.
Reply:Wouldn't that depend on how long the vacuum pump was pulling a vacuum. It will take time for the moisture to reach the outside of the flux and when the pump is removed any moisture making its way to the surface would still be inside the chamber.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:A hard vacuum will remove any free water or moisture from the container, but that's not the issue with drying rods. Much of the water is chemically combined with the ingredients in the flux, which is why lo-hi rods need to be heated above 600F to dry them. In short, a vacuum will keep the container dry but WILL NOT dry the rods thoroughly the way heating to the correct temperature will.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:Yes, the rods would be dry. This is a principal of refrigeration that if you pull a vacuum to 29.9" wc then the temperature at which moisture would reach it's boiling point is much lower that the 212 deg. F. At sea level at 14.7 #/sq." Therefore if you heat your chamber to say 140Degrees while the pump is evacuating the cylinder and your pump reaches 29.9"wc or 500 microns your rods will be dry. Then if you are careful when you open the chamber you can minimize the amount of moisture absorbed after the vacuum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:I agree with the theory, although I built a vacuum chamber to try to dry electronics that got wet and it didn't seem to work.  I'm not sure why, I did use an automotive AC pump and pulled vac for about an hour.
Reply:Typical time is not necessarily a factor in moisture/contaminates/ noncondensables removal. Having clean vac pump oil, good hoses and gauges ( preferably a micron gauge), and temperature will always give good results in time. 500 microns or -29.9" mg and a warm enough temperature to bring any moisture to a boiling point and then the pump can drive it out.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:You would think, but it didn't work in my experiment.  At 1400' elevation, I had to adjust the vac expectations down, but still had what I calculated to be true vacuum. I settled with, I might be able to store 10Lb increments of rod in vacuum charged rod guard type containers, but not dry contaminated ones. I forget what my vac readings were exactly, but they were not on a micron gauge.I still think it should work, I just couldn't make it work.
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeRod ovens are 275 F steady as I recall.I'm a lazy, cheap ascz redneck. Stick the 7018's hard on a piece of scrap until they start to glow. Break them off and do the job as you work. Don't do it with a toy welder.LOL
Reply:I do agree that an oven is designed to keep "new" rod near moisture levels supported by the manufactures. I also know that as a vacuum starts reaching a near perfect vacuum the temperature at which water will be drawn out becomes much lower and as the deep vacuum is maintain for an extended time period the amount of moisture drawn out can an should reach zero. I'll try this experiment and keep you informed. Thanks for the discussion and input.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Papa , water freezes in a Hi vacuum even next to molten metal.I saw a chamber with a glow bar. Argon was bled into the chamber and the glow bar was powered by a variac. The plasma would heat the chamber and help with the vac the same way a getter works in a vac tube. All this seems elaborate but fun. I wonder if the chamber you build could just be purged with Nitrogen?My oven reaches 300F and draws over 6 amps at 120 vac. I estimate that at $0.15 a Kilowatt , it cost $3/ day or about $90 a month to use. That's too focking much.I've measured the cold rod temps after starting an arc and get just over 200f on the rod.Yes, nitrogen purge would help to purge out any air, non condensable, a only the moisture in the air. That where a vacuum and temperature will drive the moisture out of the rod.  I primarily use nitrogen to purge out air during soldering and to purge air out of the system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by Silicon-basedA hard vacuum will remove any free water or moisture from the container, but that's not the issue with drying rods. Much of the water is chemically combined with the ingredients in the flux, which is why lo-hi rods need to be heated above 600F to dry them. In short, a vacuum will keep the container dry but WILL NOT dry the rods thoroughly the way heating to the correct temperature will.John
Reply:papasmirfThis is a reocurring topic - and definitively answered in: Lincoln's The Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding - sec. 6.2.This book should be every-modern-welder's first book, but too few acquire.Fortunately, the same INFO is available online courtesy of:SquirmyPug's observation - http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...es-detail.aspxThis up-to-date link offers more scientific and metallurgically background; but the basic Re-Dry Procedure is little changed from Lincon's 1973 ed.To the Vacuum Advocates - High Vacuum could lead to Absolute Zero.Imagine the Venial Welding Sins you could commit with no molecular movement.papasmirf - This is a rare welding instance when: Phyicis should yield to Practicality.  Follow the Lincoln procedure - the temperatures are attainable, at home, but only via a self-cleaning oven - 700 to 900 degrees - check the oven's specs, a self cleaner will go this tall. Kudos to the Vac-Advo Geeks that want the Big Bang's: History of Everything, be the National Anthem of the World.OpusLast edited by OPUS FERRO; 11-13-2013 at 03:51 AM.