How to remove primer from red iron

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what is the best way to remove the factory red primer from I guess what yall call red iron? thanks Brianpower max 45miller 180matco 160 hobart beta mig IIthermal dynamics pch 20Lincoln Idealarc tig 300/300 code 8167-c
Reply:automanHow many acres - and for what reason?Opus
Reply:I've got some 4x4 tubing that is primed and it is rusted and pitted and I want to build a welding table out of it. I want it to look good. I know all it does to a flapper disc is clog it up. It is real thick. Thanks Brianpower max 45miller 180matco 160 hobart beta mig IIthermal dynamics pch 20Lincoln Idealarc tig 300/300 code 8167-c
Reply:Grinding wheel, sandblast, burn with torch and brush it off..Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:I was wondering if maybe a rose bud and wire brush would be the fastest. Thankspower max 45miller 180matco 160 hobart beta mig IIthermal dynamics pch 20Lincoln Idealarc tig 300/300 code 8167-c
Reply:Knock off the loose stuff off with a belt sander and then paint it.
Reply:burning it off works pretty well, its stinky and will give ya a headache so make sure your outside and the wind is blowing toward the neighbors you don't like.
Reply:Media blasting with 'Black Beauty" medium grit is my favorite. But part of that is 'cause I have a 50# pot and the 125CFM to drive it properly.A cup brush or burning & brushing work well too. Be careful about possible lead in the primer. Remember your PPE!Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:Grab an angle grinder and one of these:http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Non-Wov.../dp/B00755XY2YWorks for me. Just don't buy the ones from Harbor Freight. Did that once, and never again. kidtigger24  They think I’m crazy, but I know better. It is not I who am crazy. It is I who am MAD!
Reply:I want to try one of the 7 in. 16-Grit abrasive grinding discs.  Looks like pea gravel on a salad plate. "USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by kidtigger24Grab an angle grinder and one of these:http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Non-Wov.../dp/B00755XY2YWorks for me. Just don't buy the ones from Harbor Freight. Did that once, and never again. kidtigger24
Reply:Originally Posted by oilfieldtrashinFastenal has the better orange version of these. Norton Blaze. Blue or Orange these are the best way to go.
Reply:If the tubing is not for the top, then why not knock off the loose stuff and build up a smooth finish with primer or other filler.
Reply:automanSand into clay is wasted away - clay into sand makes for good land.This describes two competing school of material sourcing on this Forum.You want to take salvage and make it new - and your opposites want to take new - and make it look old.You are both backwards.  The labor to make old metal new - exceeds the cost of new material.And the labor to make new metal look old exceeds the cost of usingdistressed material from the beginning.Good land is pure. For clean projects I use new materials.For aged projects I use distressed material.I don't have to add clay.Opus
Reply:I agree but in my situation in life free metal is a blessing even if it takes a little labor and materials. Thanks Opuspower max 45miller 180matco 160 hobart beta mig IIthermal dynamics pch 20Lincoln Idealarc tig 300/300 code 8167-c
Reply:Wire wheel the areas you want to weld, scuff the rest when done and paint
Reply:Remove rust via chemical methods (acid soak or NavalJelly type stuff), rinse well, possibly apply rust-converter type primer/treatment, then paint with 'textured' paint ala Rustoleum Hammertone stuff.If you want all the existing primer off before you get to rust removal, use chemical strippers or heat and scrape (don't necessarily have to burn it all off, just heat to soften and then scrape off with a paint scraper).  As mentioned, beware of old lead-containing primers and use PPE!If you want the final result to be a Class-A automotive type finish, then you have to start with either clean metal or spend lots of time and money to media blast everything to clean bright steel and then grind/sand/polish to desired smoothness and then prime and fill and sand and topcoat.Your call.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...