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Only have about 10-15minutes of welding aluminum under my belt, here are some pics.Before I learned how to clean aluminumNow here is where my questions come in. If you look at the bottom 2 pictures. Are my welds supposed to look like the right beads in those pictures or the left. Reason I ask is because the left look like they have height but not much at all and the right are smooth. If you look inside the pipe the left ones didn't go through the pipe at all. The top 2 did. However all the welds I've seen look like the left. Anyone have pics of what the inside of a properly welded aluminum piece looks like?Miller diversion 180, red tungsten (to a point), #5 cup and 96-102 amps(forgot exactly how many)Last edited by Gamble; 07-17-2011 at 08:10 PM.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Stop touching the piece/filler with the tungston..Clean your material better...Acetone and a stainless "Toothbrush" with CLEAN rags are your best friend now...You need time but we can help.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterStop touching the piece/filler with the tungston..Clean your material better...Acetone and a stainless "Toothbrush" with CLEAN rags are your best friend now...You need time but we can help.....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterStop touching the piece/filler with the tungston..Clean your material better...Acetone and a stainless "Toothbrush" with CLEAN rags are your best friend now...You need time but we can help.....zap!
Reply:If you want help, post up as much info as possible. Amps alone mean nothing if we don't know how thick the base material is. 100 amps is too low for 1/8" but would be way to high for say 22ga. Filler size? Tungsten size?...Post up:Material : Alloy (if known, particularly important with alum since many alloys are not weldable) and thicknessFiller: Alloy and thicknessAmps: Max setting and roughly how much used with the pedalTungsten: Type ( color or name), size, point shapeGas: Assuming 100% argon, but some are using mixes in rare cases.Machine used:How it was prepped.Joint configuration, Welding position (flat, overhead etc), preheat used, if part is to be anodised, or any other info you can think of....No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Wow, I thought I had all that info because I remember typing it. Odd.Miller diversion 180, red tungsten (to a point), #5 cup and 96-102 amps(forgot exactly how many)
Reply:So should it penetrate all the way through? Which is the best looking one?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Penetrate? you're not welding a joint. To me anyway it seems if the weld is not cold lapped, but washed in at the edges and you had an appropriate puddle then the weld is homogenous with the base metal. The back side of what you're welding doesn't have to be melted to say the weld 'stuck' properly.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com |
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