Need some help with pipe root

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Hi there every one. I used to be on here a lot but had to start a new user name. I have been welding for over 6 years. I have done a little of everything but Pipe welding. I can mig, tig, stick, fluxcore and even gas weld. With the job I have now I must be able to pipe weld on some snow making pipe that runs up and down the mountain. I have been praticeing for the pass few weeks in the shop on a nice sncroywave 250. I need to be able to do at least a 5G certSo with the 6010 root at about 82 amps I tend to still burn through sch. 40 8inch pipe. I bevel it at 30 degrees and about 3/32 root gap. I am using 1/8 rod. I travel up from the 7 oclock to 11. using a whipping motion and my key hole still gets to big and I am unable to recover from it. also the pipe i will be welding on will have to hold up to 800psiSo I would like to know what can I do fix the problem? Also is there any pipe welders out there that could give me some advice? what is better to weld going up hill or down hill in the 5G or 6G? Any advice anyone can give me would be great. thanks a lot guysSean
Reply:try an even smaller root gap.
Reply:Speed or amps.  Adjust one or the other.  Increase travel speed or lower amps, yet make sure to maintain penetration.Also, how big are your lands?  1/8"?
Reply:Root gap, land thickness and machine amperage are the keys to welding pipe roots with 6010. Travel speed is also important.What land thickness are you you using? If you keep burning through there are a few things you can try. A thicker land will help, a tighter root gap will help (careful cause you still want full penetration), turning your machine down a bit may help.You know you got it right when you can almost drag the rod all the way around the pipe without whipping and you get a nice even amount of reinforcement on the inside of the pipe. Once you get it figured out, remember and use them specs all the time.I use a 3/32 5P+ rod at 65 amps, 3/32 root gap and strong 3/32 land.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Gap it about 1/16th" (dime wide) 1/8th" land (nickel wide) 6010 downhill at 70 -75 amps and keep the tip of the rod pointed at the CENTER of the pipe. Don't point it uphill, don't point it downhill. Point it at the CENTER of the pipe. I tried many different methods and this is the only one one that works perfect for me every time.Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:Ahh, yes, another good point.All my tests were welded "up" only. No down for me.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:If your having a problem with your keyhole opening too much, you can try a couple things. 1- a bit bigger land so there is more metal to burn through. 2-tighten up the gap 3- the obvious turn down the amps don't be scared to turn it down below what amps you think you should be welding at if it getting too hot, sch 40 is pretty thin wall stuff and should heat up pretty quick. So say first pass you run 82 but at the end you started to open up a bit too much, break the arc feather your stop and turn it down 5...Eventually you outta start to know your machine and what amps it likes for what size pipe/ schedule etc.And another thing that can help you is if your having a problem controlling your heat/ keyhole try stepping down to 3/32 6010 to reduce the heat input, you'll notice right away that its much easier to control than even 1/8th.
Reply:3/32 landing 3/32 gap here. Don't know amperage, whatever burns 1/8 6010 to my liking. Then I run 3/32 7018 for fill & cap. Try burning 6010 down hand, easier to control the heat and sometimes keep an eye on that keyhole...Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:Concerning the larger (safety )  picture... is THIS a good project to Learn on ?  If it failed could anyone get hurt ?Weldandpower Lincoln 225 AC,DC with Briggs 16hp gas engine.WW2 era Miller TIG.
Reply:for me, its 1/8 5p+, strong 1/8 gap,  (a 1/8 gap will shrink to 3/32 )strong 1/8 land. approximately 37.5 degree bevel 4 tacks (3,6,9,12) about 3/4"-1" long, feather the ends of your tack to paper thin on each end.  heat depends on machine, some I've used i'm @ 62.5 amps, some I'm closer to 72-75 for up hill, and down hill is much hotter.if you are going up hill,  you want to "sponge" or push in the tip of the rod back into key hole, and keep the light inside the pipe, any stop you will want to feather down. an uphill 6010 root is slow and controlled.  make sure you are starting on the meat of the tack and let your heat build up a bit for a clean tie in.  you want to make sure as you whip you don't to come out of the key hole too much (that could be part of the problem with blowing holes). if your going downhill 1/8 5p+, 3/32 to 1/16 gap, 3/32 to 1/16th land ( you will find what works in getting you the best penatration), same set up for tack, feather with a cut-off wheel.drag the rod, no whipping, like was said above keep the tip of the rod 90 degress to center of pipe (slightly back into the puddle is also ok).  if you move to fast and get a little hole, keep moving, get it after, if you try to go after the hole you are just gonna make it worse.are you sure it's 800psi running pressure????Pipefitter/Welder- Pipefitters Local 537 BostonAmerican by Birth, Union by Choice4th Generation member Local 537