my first bend test

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I thought I'd have a go at bend testing some welds and also compare welding over millscale to welding freshly ground bare steel.work: 3/16" mild steelmachine: Clarke Turbo Weld 150ENvoltage: maxed outwfs: 7.5 out of 10filler: Lincoln Superarc L-56 (ER70S6)gas: C25 @ 20CFHtravel: forehandmillscale removedjoint weldedthis one snapped relatively easily, i think the gap created by straightening after tacking may be to blame. input on that would be appreciated.so I did anothermore to followMiller Syncrowave 250 w/ PC-300 pulserLincoln AC/DC 225/125Clarke TurboWeld 150ENJackson Halo w/ gold lensHuntsman w/ blue lensDoing sanitary stainless tig
Reply:millscale left on, I lightly wire wheeled to remove loose contaminantsjoint welded, noticeably more crud around edgesbendingseems comparable to a weld on fresh groundthis is my bend testing apparatus, 18" Craftsman adjustableI know I need to work on getting more consistent travel speed.Am I doing the testing the right way?Should I skip tacking the backside for bend tests?Any and all input is appreciated.Miller Syncrowave 250 w/ PC-300 pulserLincoln AC/DC 225/125Clarke TurboWeld 150ENJackson Halo w/ gold lensHuntsman w/ blue lensDoing sanitary stainless tig
Reply:lets see one without any prep work at all.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:On a fillet weld like that you bend TOWARDS the weld, not away from it, and yes I wouldn't tack the back, only on the very edge at each side or on the face and burn thru your tacks with your weld.Keep in mind you want the weld to be as tall as the base material. A 1/2" fillet on 1/8" material isn't any stronger than an 1/8" to may be 3/16" fillet. ( it's often hard to make same size fillets on thin materials, but you want to keep them as small as possible.)  In many cases a large weld will actually damage the base material, and the material will fail right next to the weld in the heat affected zone because you over heated the base material with the large weld..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWOn a fillet weld like that you bend TOWARDS the weld, not away from it, and yes I wouldn't tack the back, only on the very edge at each side or on the face and burn thru your tacks with your weld.Keep in mind you want the weld to be as tall as the base material. A 1/2" fillet on 1/8" material isn't any stronger than an 1/8" to may be 3/16" fillet. ( it's often hard to make same size fillets on thin materials, but you want to keep them as small as possible.)  In many cases a large weld will actually damage the base material, and the material will fail right next to the weld in the heat affected zone because you over heated the base material with the large weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerlets see one without any prep work at all.
Reply:Originally Posted by hypothecaryFor bend tests on butt joints do you still bend towards the weld or away?
Reply:Burn hot,move fast without leaving undercut.On the big jobs they had us clean the material to a shiny,bare metal state 1 inch(minimum) all around the weld zone.Not sure if that is a code requirement.On butt welds 1 1/2  inch straps are cut out and bent into a u-shape at the weld,bending 2 straps in the direction that's testing the root and 2 straps in the opposite direction testing the cover pass.Any imperfection's will cause a crack or a break in the stap.