Need utility trailer plans

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Hi, I'm trying to find some engineered plans for building a utility trailer 6 x 12 approximately.I would like to use C CHANNEL for the main frame.  Can anyone please direct me to where I could find plans?Thank you!GlennGlenn
Reply:Hello and welcome. Northern tool sells engineered plans for trailers pretty cheap and in a wide variety of styles and sizes. A few generic comments since you are new and we have no idea of your skill set. It's typically cheaper to buy or alter an existing trailer vs build one. By the time you buy axles, wheels and tires, brakes, lights, steel etc, you are usually above what it will cost to buy one, and you haven't even figured in welding supplies, grinding disks etc, let alone your time....Also we see a lot of new guys who want to jump right in and build a trailer, often with a small cheap welder ( often a 110v machine). Trailers for road use are NOT a beginner project. You really need to be able to do code quality welds in all positions with a machine powerful enough to do good solid welds. That usually means a machine on 230v power. Most newer welders have a tough time even doing semi decent welds in the flat position. If they need to do vertical or overhead welds, their welds usually will not cut it..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by Alvette2003Hi, I'm trying to find some engineered plans for building a utility trailer 6 x 12 approximately.I would like to use C CHANNEL for the main frame.  Can anyone please direct me to where I could find plans?Thank you!GlennGlenn
Reply:First thing to do is check the trailer laws for your state.Get some 3 inch 1/4'' thick C-channel and that will make a real solid box and A frame.But 6'x12' is a little bit bigger than what I have built.I do most of my welds with my little Lincoln mig welder, grind a fillet grove and weld all around with high CO2 content gas.Just be sure not too weld too much all at once or you will over heat your mig welders inductor and transformer and lose output power.I picked up a 230 amp AC stick welder to take some of the load off the mig and do the heavier stuff.Make sure you plug your welder into a good power source, such as a proper extension cord that isn't too long or undersized.Edit: My trailers are way better than those 2'' bed frame trailers.And they don't really show you how to attach the axle and springs to the frame and that is kind of important.Last edited by mad welder 4; 12-02-2013 at 03:14 PM.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:Originally Posted by mad welder 4First thing to do is check the trailer laws for your state.Get some 3 inch 1/4'' thick C-channel and that will make a real solid box and A frame.But 6'x12' is a little bit bigger than what I have built.I do most of my welds with my little Lincoln mig welder, grind a fillet grove and weld all around with high CO2 content gas.Just be sure not too weld too much all at once or you will over heat your mig welders inductor and transformer and lose output power.I picked up a 230 amp AC stick welder to take some of the load off the mig and do the heavier stuff.Make sure you plug your welder into a good power source, such as a proper extension cord that isn't too long or undersized.Edit: My trailers are way better than those 2'' bed frame trailers.And they don't really show you how to attach the axle and springs to the frame and that is kind of important.
Reply:Thank you for the responses so far...Here is a bit more information that should help.   First some backgroundI have a Lincoln 255, I can weld but my brother is much better at making proper welds, so he'll do the critical weldingNext the reason for C Channel on the main frame.  I live in Michigan and the last two trailers that had square tubing got salt water in them from the winter salted roadways and rusted out.   I'm thinking it would be easier to keep my trailer salt free if I don't use anything hollow like tubing. I'm thinking a 3500 lb axle would work for me.  I plan to use this trailer for hauling 2 quads among other things from time to time.  I would like to build it with 2' high board sides and front.  I would also like an expanded steel ramp for the back, 15" wheels, fenders and an aluminum tool/junk box on the a frame tongue.I want a good solid trailer, not under built and not over built.I was thinking that C Channel was stronger and lighter than angle for the same capacity but I'm not sure on that.  So my thought was C Channel for the A frame and main outside frame of the trailer then angle or c channel for the cross supports and sides, whatever is least expensive and easiest.  Any thoughts on what size c channel I should be considering for the 6x12 outside frame?I am looking to do this right and certainly need input from folks in the know.  If I've misstated anything please feel free to correct me as I appreciate your thoughtsGlennGlenn
Reply:If your'e going to build a trailer with plans or without, some of the things you need to consider are these,Weight of load  (choice of axle)height of bed (choice of axle)size of tire ( choice of axle)style of axletires under bed or outside bedball height of tow vehiclelenght of toungetoes in or out ( cope or no cope)type of deckaxle cost material cost time spent weigh it and plate itpaint itthere are more but this is a startSwanny
Reply:Originally Posted by Alvette2003my thought was C Channel for the A frame and main outside frame of the trailer then angle or c channel for the cross supports and sides, whatever is least expensive and easiest.  Any thoughts on what size c channel I should be considering for the 6x12 outside frame?Glenn
Reply:Here are some pics of what I've done. If you want plans I'll give you my number and you can call me. You might want to try the formed side trailers like the first because there is not anyplace to hold salt. They are also almost unbreakable and very light weight and easy to build. These are aluminum, but steel would work great too. The top has 1 3500lb axle the middle 1 7,000lb and the bottom 2-3500lb. Attached Images
Reply:The easiest, cheapest way that I have found is to find a trailer like you want and get permission from the owner to take measurements, pics, etc. I've done this on a couple commercially built trailers and it worked well. I grew up hauling with my Grandpa and I probably have more miles behind me with a trailer attatched than without. I would never build anything bigger than a 4 or 5x8 with only 1 axle. If you blow a tire on a single axle you can really get in a mess. Good luck
Reply:i built my 20ft car hauler with a 110 mig flux core .035.... mind you i did bevel every thing and had my machine maxed out, it can be done just more of a pain
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Reply:I would also suggest that you use a torflex axle. On single axle trailers they ride better, have less bounce, are easier to mount and align, are more durable and have no suspension parts to wear out. I've designed and built well over 100 single axle trailers and most were torflex and I've never had a dissatisfied customer as far as the axle went.
Reply:Those are not the best plans for a trailer. There are a lot of things that could be made better for little or no extra money. The most obvious to me is that the tongue angles don't run back far enough to attach to the sides. Also the uprights in front should be over the tongue angles and also on the sides at the rear of the tongue
Reply:Are you sure 6x12 is big enough to get 2 quads in? Also you can go up to 80" wide legally between the wheels if you want.
Reply:I've thought about a torsion axle. There seems tone a great deal of discussion from both sides of spring vs torsion. So I could be swayed either way.  I continue to discuss the width of the trailer and am not 100% decided on 6 feet as the width.   I did discuss with my wife if she would watch the trailer behind the truck if she drove it.     The answer makes me hesitate to make it much wider than the truck....What would be helpful at this time would be the size of c channel I should use for a 12' span on a 3500 lb axle?I plan on building this in the spring or early summer so I'm getting my plans and decisions nailed down with everyone's help.     Thank you to all that are respondingGlenn
Reply:After tearing apart my junker 16' car trailer which according to the title is rated to carry 3500lb my confidence is very high with my 98''x64'' flat bed trailer build. Attached Imagesold Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:Just letting you know that I can barely get my 2 Canam quads on a 14 footer. It's 7' wide , but 6' would have been much better for maneuverability in tight spaces. I built a removable overshot deck across the front of it so I can load one quad crosswise an still have room for my side x side if I want to go that route.
Reply:Originally Posted by mad welder 4After tearing apart my junker 16' car trailer which according to the title is rated to carry 3500lb my confidence is very high with my 98''x64'' flat bed trailer build.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveWould you mind posting some shots of that tongue connection area?  (At the front of the bed)Something does not look right.
Reply:As said for 12' if you are not going with sides the lightest 4" would be best. You could go with 3" x 5 lb if your sure you will only haul the atv's. If your going to use the full 3500lb axle I would go with the 4"x 5.4lb.  If you are going to have sides as you said then you can use much less for the main beam because the side carries the load.
Reply:The best width for easy pulling is to have the wheels the same width as the tow vehicle, especially in the snow and on soft surfaces.
Reply:Quads (ATVs) are getting bigger all the time. Lot of em are 72" to 76" long from the outsides of the tires. Maybe seven foot from the front to the rear measuring body parts."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:I'm not sure I want to see that.
Reply:Originally Posted by tekstarJust letting you know that I can barely get my 2 Canam quads on a 14 footer. It's 7' wide , but 6' would have been much better for maneuverability in tight spaces. I built a removable overshot deck across the front of it so I can load one quad crosswise an still have room for my side x side if I want to go that route.Originally Posted by welderjThose are not the best plans for a trailer. There are a lot of things that could be made better for little or no extra money. The most obvious to me is that the tongue angles don't run back far enough to attach to the sides. Also the uprights in front should be over the tongue angles and also on the sides at the rear of the tongue
Reply:Originally Posted by sae300Are you referring to my trailer ? If so there was no plans "designed" it, also it has heavy channel on the in side of the tounge, I haul scrap on it and had 9700 lbs on it repedly
Reply:What do you mean over shot ?
Reply:I think he's talking about leaving the front flat so you can drive over it like the bottom 2 trailers in my picks. For some things you can gain some length that way. Make sure you beef up the tongue tho to take the extra weight because it will all be at the weakest part of the tongue.
Reply:Talking about the plans in the link. No way anyone is hauling 9700lbs in those.
Reply:Oh ic ic , I'd be worried about hitting the box on the truck w hen turning/backing up,
Reply:Originally Posted by welderjTalking about the plans in the link. No way anyone is hauling 9700lbs in those.
Reply:Thank you everyone for your thoughts and suggestions.     I'm currently trying to nail down the trailer size I want.  I'll likely have a few questions in the future and I'll keep you posted as this develops.    Thank you again!Glenn
Reply:Originally Posted by Alvette2003I'm curious about your overshot deck portion of your trailer.  I'm wondering if I could do the same with a metal skeleton and wood sided trailer.Glenn
Reply:Originally Posted by sae300What do you mean over shot ?
Reply:Originally Posted by Alvette2003Tekstar  can you post picture of your overshot deck?    That is something that might work well for me.  As most the time I'll probably just be hauling one quad or a polaris 800 rzr.Here's the pic I promised. I have another track that mounts across the bed rails 3' back in the trailer and that lets me carry 1 quad crosswise and the Arctic Cat prowler in the remaining length. I made a hardboard mockup and clamped it in place before I built the 1' front overshot to make sure my turning radius would still be adequate and not hit the pickup bed or tailgate. It works just fine. ( Sorry about the muddy condition but I just got back from elk hunting and it's too cold to wash it right now.)Glenn
Reply:Tekstar  thanks for the picture.    Gives me some good ideas.Glenn
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWHello and welcome. Northern tool sells engineered plans for trailers pretty cheap and in a wide variety of styles and sizes. A few generic comments since you are new and we have no idea of your skill set. It's typically cheaper to buy or alter an existing trailer vs build one. By the time you buy axles, wheels and tires, brakes, lights, steel etc, you are usually above what it will cost to buy one, and you haven't even figured in welding supplies, grinding disks etc, let alone your time....Also we see a lot of new guys who want to jump right in and build a trailer, often with a small cheap welder ( often a 110v machine). Trailers for road use are NOT a beginner project. You really need to be able to do code quality welds in all positions with a machine powerful enough to do good solid welds. That usually means a machine on 230v power. Most newer welders have a tough time even doing semi decent welds in the flat position. If they need to do vertical or overhead welds, their welds usually will not cut it.
Reply:Originally Posted by tekstar
Reply:Yes what size C-channel is that?I have some that looks to be about the same size as what you used there.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:That is 3" channel, but the cross members are 2" angle (3/16") and its a cheap shoddy trailer built by Carson Trailers. I took it as payment for a debt.... would never buy one ! I've beefed it up when I refloored it and it's ok now. It does have 3500# axles fortunately.
Reply:Originally Posted by Alvette2003Tekstar, As I'm looking at your trailer picture.  Looks like you used angle iron for the frame and C channel for the tongue.  Can you tell me the size of your angle used for the trailer and cross members?  Also did you run to 3500 lb axles??And how was the ELK HUNT?ThanksGlenn