Stick Weld Break Test

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Hey yall!!So, this is what I've been up to lately, I ran some welds with 6011, 6013, 7014, and 7018:And then hammered them apart:Which was actually pretty fun and very stress relieving. My weakest weld was 7014, then 6013, 6011, and 7018. It honestly wasn't exactly what I was expecting, but I was really impressed with how the 7018 held up, considering I ran all these with cheap Hobart electrodes and that 7018 had been sitting out since last winter. What I don't fully understand yet, tho, is the huge difference in the performance of the 70XX electrodes, how one failed so soon and the other held up so well. I know that one is low hydgren, but is that all that made the difference? Hopefully someone can shed a little light on that...But anyway, hope yall enjoy the video  I made this after someone asked me about weld strenght with the different electrodes, and I thought back to last summer to a series of posts made by CEP. He's a great welder and did pretty much the same test that I did, so I got his permission to copy his test and made it in video form. Thanks dude [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Lanse,Don't you think the amperage played some role in how much penetration was achieved and thus how large/strong the weld bead was?I'd live to see a follow up video with closeups and bead measurements.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:I too feel the amperage played a big part in penetration and thus strengthMiller Diversion 180Hobart Handler 140 (Soon to be replaced with Miller 211?)Miller Spectrum 625 Extreme
Reply:It's hard to tell from the before picts. It looks like the 7014 bead has the smallest weld with the shortest legs, followed by the 6013 bead, 6011 bead and finally the 7018 bead. If this is true, it somewhat backs up the reason why they failed in this order. A smaller bead will usually take less force than a larger one, everything else being equal. I'd have been curious to have seen better close up pict of the before beads. I will give you credit for one thing, this is one of the few "hammer" tests I've seen guys do where they actually bend the material the right way over the weld vs trying to bend them the opposite way..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I enjoy watching your videos.  I would like to back DSW up on the leg size.  I realize not every rod will weld at the same amperage, but you can even them out some.  For instance, have the 7014 and the 7018 at the same amperage.  You may even be able to weld the 6013 at that same level.  Say 125-130 amps.  There will be a difference in the 6011, but that is expected due to its nature.  I would also see if amperage played a role by having 7018 run at several amps settings...say from 100-140.  With you knowledge you could easily build a small press with a pressure Gauge and measure how much force is used to break the welds.  I wish I had your skill when i was your age.  If you are using 1/4 inch material use a 1/4 inch weld and if you are using a 3/8 inch material then use a 3/8 inch weld.  I think this pursuit would be very interesting.
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255Lanse,Don't you think the amperage played some role in how much penetration was achieved and thus how large/strong the weld bead was?I'd live to see a follow up video with closeups and bead measurements.
Reply:At least you've set your mind to being curious.  It's a good thing I always do the most research possible into the consumables I use.  It's a good thing to know.http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...Plus/c110g.pdfPay attention the the amps reccomended, and the charpy toughness.  Impact toughness is a clue as to why the 7018 will withstand more repeated impacts.Penetration is a factor with 7018, as well as the incorporation of the parent metal into the weld.  This increases ductility.  Some 7018 rods are made to operate with less penetration to keep the alloy in the steel out of the weld.  It just depends.I don't do 6010 or 6011 very much, so I don't have an opinion on that stuff I think you're on the right track.Amperage depends on thickness of the steel, and travel speed you use, and a few other things.  I always try to weld as hot as the metal will allow, while staying within the parameters.  Most 7018, and 6013, will operate best at 135 amps and above.  Hot as you can run it without burn thru or excessive spatter.  Sometimes you'll get porosity if you run too hot, or run a weird rod angle.  Again it depends.Try smaller coupons, it'll save your arm "Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Lance, There will be some variance, there is a lot of flexibility with amps.  Some can weld a great 7018 weld at 125 and others can weld a great weld at 140.  It is all in the puddle control and the nut holding the stinger in place.according to miller calculator the  6013 can be run 80-130 the 7014 can be run 110-165 and the 7018 can be run 110-165.I learned something looking those numbers up.  I would have never thought the last two could be run that hot.  I think those are general ranges though. The only 1/8 rods I have run near 165 have been 7024.