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Longhorn smoker repair question...

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发表于 2021-8-31 23:22:07 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Quick question guys. I have a Longhorn offset smoker. The fire box as an ash drawer under it, which I've not been that impressed with from day one (which was several years ago). The smkoer is not covered and the drawer has pretty much rusted to nothing. Originally I was thinking of rebuilding the drawer, but then figured I would just remove it and cover the rounded bottom of the firebox. Herein lies my question. Based on pretty much nothing, I decided I would just get some 1/8" plate, cut it to size (24"X20") and flex it around the bottom of the fire box and weld her up. Well, 1/8" plate doesn't just "flex" that easy. I'm sure I could have chosen something thinner that could have worked better but I didnt want to have a rusting issue again. How would you go about using this 1/8" plate to do this? or would you just set it aside and use something else? If so, what would you use?
Reply:Can you give us some pictures? Sure would help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Go "super power red neck" on it...Put it on top of two wood blocks under your truck, jack up the truck to push down on the plate ....before anyone asks....yes I've done this - and other red neck stuff too (Front tire of my tractor bends, or straightens, stuff too )But more seriously, grinding relief cuts half way through works too, just weld them when done.Last edited by MinnesotaDave; 01-21-2014 at 07:30 PM.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Here's a quick cell phone pic. Just trying to figure out how to bend the 1/8" plate across this span so it follows the curve of the barrell. A guy on a BBQ forum said take it to a sheet metal shop and have them bend it, but I'd rather not pay someone to do it.
Reply:Cut it oversize, put an initial bend in it with any number of redneck methods.Tack it in the center and use heavy rachet straps wrapped around the barrel to draw it down the rest of the way.You will need some 2x4 pieces to get more force on the ends.Once you have tacked further from the center, work down the ends that won't quite touch with a hammer.It's only 1/8" material - you can force it to do what you want. Note: there are lots of more precise ways to do it based on what equipment you have - but this will work quickly and you'll be all done. Last edited by MinnesotaDave; 01-22-2014 at 09:46 AM.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Use the 1/8" flat plate as is(flat) and build a square shallow flat box to fit the opening you have cut and weld it in the hole. Does it necessarily HAVE to be round to work? Cut the plate the size of the opening and weld a 2 or 2.5" piece along each side and weld it in, easy enough. You could even cut the radius of the round portion off on the inside if desired. I think if you try to do what Dave above is saying about forcing it to fit, you are going to bend the crap out of the original part of the fire box since it is such light gage stuff to begin with, made weaker from several years of use.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauUse the 1/8" flat plate as is(flat) and build a square shallow flat box to fit the opening you have cut and weld it in the hole. Does it necessarily HAVE to be round to work? Cut the plate the size of the opening and weld a 2 or 2.5" piece along each side and weld it in, easy enough. You could even cut the radius of the round portion off on the inside if desired. I think if you try to do what Dave above is saying about forcing it to fit, you are going to bend the crap out of the original part of the fire box since it is such light gage stuff to begin with, made weaker from several years of use.
Reply:Roll it over your knee. It's only 1/8"
Reply:Alright, I got it done. Probably be thinking, "why was I posting if I had a shop press". BUT, I had in my mind a nice smooth roll to the new steel. Anyways, thanks for the responses guys. I figured I'd use my press and make several bends to make it work. The brake I made for my press a couple of years ago was made to bend some steel for brackets for my Jeep and wasn't anywhere near wide enough. I just moved the arbor plates out of the way and used the Horizontal I-beam portion of the press and the ram and just went little by little. It's not perfect, but it's definitely close enough for this application.
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